TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5

The Carrera is by and large a sporty collection, as its name suggests. It's dedicated to the sport of race car driving to a large extent; the Carrera Calibre 36 with a flyback chronograph function is a good example of this. There are also many models featuring tachymetric scales, which allow you to measure average speed.

The Calibre 5 moves in a slightly different direction. It has around 30 different versions, many of which are kept simple with a touch of timeless elegance. In this respect, they're similar to the significantly more expensive Rolex Oyster Perpetual; however, the Calibre 5 has versions with a date or day/date display. This three-hand watch gives off a refined, timeless feel thanks to its stainless steel case and bracelet, and dial in either dark blue, black, gray, or white. Thin lines serve as hour markers, which emphasize the minimalistic look. A Carrera Calibre 5 goes well with any look; you can wear it as a dress watch with a suit as well as a sport watch with chinos and a polo shirt.

Calibre 5 models in gold offer even more classic elegance. Some models feature a bezel and crown made of solid gold. Bicolor models made of stainless steel and gold are also available. TAG Heuer uses either 18-karat yellow or rose gold for the Calibre 5 models. Even the hands, indices, and borders to the day/date displays are coated in gold, which is applied by hand.

The Drive Timer is the sportiest watch in the Carrera collection. Its unusual function raises a few questions: What's that thing coming out of the case at 10 o'clock? A push-piece? What's it for? The watch isn't a chronograph, so there's nothing to stop, start, or reset, right?

This mysterious thing is actually a second crown. Turning it moves the internal bezel underneath the sapphire glass. The 60-minute bezel is located on the rehaut, the edge of the dial. A 60-minute graduated bezel is required on diving watches so divers can keep track of their time underwater. However, these bezels are located in the traditional spot above the dial, where you can turn them with your hand. Putting such a 60-minute graduated bezel on the rehaut is unusual, as is controlling it via a crown. This feature makes the Calibre 5 Drive Timer not only a unique TAG Heuer watch, but also a unique watch with few comparisons worldwide. Only a handful of other timepieces, such as the Seamaster Bullhead from Omega, have a comparable feature.

You can use the rehaut bezel in a way similar to how a diver uses the bezel on his diving watch: to measure a certain period of time. To do so, you turn the red zero marker on the rehaut with the extra crown and match it up with the minute hand. You can time periods of up to 60 minutes. The graduations are displayed in five-minute intervals; Arabic numerals from 05 to 55 are on the rehaut, with thin lines representing the minutes in between.

The Calibre 5 watches are powered by an automatic caliber of the same name. It's based on the 2824-2, a movement produced by ETA, the largest ébauche manufacturer worldwide. Another company, Sellita, has developed a similar movement, the SW200, which is also used in some Calibre 5 models. It has a diameter of 26 mm and vibrates at 28,800 A/h (4 Hz). It has a 38-hour power reserve and depending on the model, either 25 or 26 jewel bearings. The words "TAG Heuer - Calibre 5 - Swiss Made" are engraved on the rotor. TAG Heuer utilizes a sapphire glass case back in order to showcase all this finery.