Rolex

Timeless Designs With Investment Potential

Many consider Rolex to be the epitome of luxury watches, and not without reason. Rolex's models are iconic in the watch industry, often serving as the blueprint for entire watch categories. Take for example the Rolex Submariner; although it was by no means the first of its kind, this model is deemed the quintessential diving watch. The GMT-Master was just as influential, radicalizing GMT watches with its two-tone 24-hour bezel.

Prestige, excellent quality, and timeless designs are all synonymous with Rolex, and demand for timepieces produced by the Swiss giant has been steadily rising as a result. High demand and limited availability have a direct impact on prices. This means that Rolex watches are very likely to appreciate and can, therefore, make for profitable investments.

However, it is not only the excellent workmanship and stable value that have earned the Geneva-based manufacturer a world-class reputation. Rolex's good name is bolstered by the fact that it has remained independent and attaches great importance to crafting its watches almost entirely in-house. After all, many other well-known watch manufacturers now belong to large corporations; for example, Omega is part of the Swatch Group. Another secret to Rolex's success is their company policy of discretion: tours of their workshops are rare, the CEO seldom gives interviews, and even their annual profits are kept private.

Most Important Rolex Models At a Glance

• Rolex Submariner: Legendary diving watch, available with and without a date display
• Rolex GMT-Master & GMT-Master II: The blueprint for watches offering a second time zone
• Rolex Daytona: Racing chronograph with a tricompax dial
• Rolex Day-Date: Status symbol with a day and date display
• Rolex Datejust: The ultimate sporty dress watch
• Rolex Explorer & Explorer II: Robust yet elegant tool watches
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual: The entry-level model

How much does a Rolex cost?

In the spring of 2024, the official list prices for current Rolex watches ranged from 6,400 to 160,000 USD. Unfortunately, most of the Geneva-based manufacturer's watches are still difficult to obtain from authorized dealers, and waiting times can be considerable. If you don't want to end up on a long waiting list, the only option is the secondary market. However, due to the laws of supply and demand, you should expect significant price premiums.

This phenomenon is reflected in the price of the stainless steel Submariner Dateref. 116610LN. In April 2024, this reference was selling on Chrono24 for close to 15,000 USD – that's more than 6,000 USD more than its original retail price. You’ll have to dig even deeper into your pockets if you want to own a Daytona like the ref. 116500LN with a white dial or the stainless steel version of the GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO. At close to 34,200 and 23,200 USD respectively, these Rolexes demand almost twice as much as their original MSRPs.

There are also more affordable options available. Vintage models from the 1930s and 40s, such as the Precision Super Balance ref. 4211 or the Oyster Sport Aqua ref. 3136, can be had for approximately 1,000 USD in good condition.

Are Rolex watches a good investment?

Rolex watches are so much more than a statement of power, prestige, and luxury – most also make great investments. If you ever decide to sell your Rolex, you can generally assume you will at least get your money back. In fact, watches in good condition often sell for a profit. Although the market has cooled somewhat recently, Rolex watches still increased in value between 5% and 15% on average from January 2021 to January 2024. Certain models, such as the Milgauss (discontinued in 2023), even recorded an increase in value of over 40%. Rolex watches evidently still have the potential to be lucrative investments.

What’s the most affordable Rolex?

Listings for Rolex watches on Chrono24 start at around 1,000 USD. In this price range you’ll mostly find less popular vintage models, such as the square Precision models from the 1940s and 50s. These watches are primarily collector's items and don't have much chance of appreciating significantly in value.

Prices for the most affordable Rolex models that hold their value well start between 3,900 and 5,600 USD. Two great examples are the Precision ref. 4498 and the Cellini ref. 4112, both of which are vintage models.

The most affordable unisex Rolex in the current catalog is the Oyster Perpetual 36 (ref. 126000). Rolex listed this timepiece for 6,100 USD in the spring of 2024. However, due to limited supply for a variety of reasons, this reference runs changes hands on the secondary market for between roughly 9,000 and 18,000 USD, depending on the dial color.

What’s the most expensive Rolex?

The most expensive Rolex watch ever sold is the Cosmograph Daytona owned by Hollywood legend Paul Newman. In 2017, Phillips auction house sold this timepiece for a staggering record sum of 17.75 million USD after just 12 minutes. The watch features a rare "exotic dial." These dials have at least two colors, a contrasting minute track, and Art-Deco-style numerals on the subdials. Another remarkable detail on this watch are the small squares above the indices on the subdials.

The auction ensured a sustained run on exotic dial Daytona models, now known as the Rolex “Paul Newman.” Particularly popular models include the references 6239, 6241, and 6264 with the aforementioned dial variation. Asking prices for well-maintained timepieces start at around 168,000 USD and soar to nearly 437,000 USD in some cases.

But make no mistake – even newer Daytona models have been raking in six-figure sums. The platinum reference 116506 will set you back about 118,000 USD on Chrono24. The pavé ref. 116576TBR, the dial and bezel of which are entirely set with diamonds, demands an investment of over 420,000 USD. The current Daytona Rainbow ref. 116595RBOW will set you back approximately 168,000 USD.

Rolex Watches: Price Overview

Rolex Submariner: A Pioneer Among Diving Watches

The Submariner is undoubtedly one of the classics in the Rolex lineup. Although the history of this diving watch stretches back as far as 1953, the Submariner's design has barely changed over the decades. The diving bezel, the streamlined dial with round luminous indices, the triangle at 12 o’clock, and the luminescent Mercedes hands are still key features of the Submariner’s design.

Current editions of the Submariner in stainless steel can be found under the reference numbers 124060 (no date) and 126610LN (with date). Both timepieces measure 41 mm in diameter, are water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft) and feature a black dial and black bezel insert. Rolex also offers these references in white gold, yellow gold, and a two-tone combination of gold and steel.

The Submariner collection is home to a number of collector's items, such as the green Submariner editions commonly known as the “Hulk” and the “Kermit.” The blue version also has a devoted fan base, who have nicknamed the timepiece the “Smurf.” Special editions like the Submariner Comex, created in cooperation with COMEX, a French company specializing in underwater exploration technology, are rare and thus highly sought after.

Features of the Current Rolex Submariner

• 41 mm in diameter
• Available in stainless steel, gold, and two-tone versions
• Models with or without a date
• Water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft)

Rolex Daytona – An Icon Among Chronographs

The Cosmograph Daytona is one of Rolex's most popular watches. First introduced in 1963, the chronograph is named after the legendary Daytona Beach racetrack in Florida. As usual with Rolex, the design of the watch has remained more or less unchanged to this day. The Daytona's most recognizable feature is its tricompax dial layout with subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The time is indicated by applied tapered indices and baton hands. Both the hour markers and hands are luminescent, which means you'll have no trouble telling the time in low-light conditions.

Thanks to the interplay of the screw-down crown and push-pieces with the watch's Oyster case, the Daytona has a depth rating of 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). What's more, you have the choice of models in stainless steel, gold, platinum, and numerous two-tone versions.

The fixed bezel and tachymeter scale are two other fundamental features of the Daytona. Depending on when the timepiece was made, the bezel inlay could be made of stainless steel, acrylic crystal, aluminum, gold, or the manufacturer's proprietary ceramic blend, Cerachrom.

New 60th Anniversary Models

In celebration of the Daytona's 60th anniversary in 2023, Rolex gave the collection a few upgrades. The visual differences between the new reference 126500 and its predecessor, the ref. 116500, are very subtle. For example, the dial now features slightly narrower indices than before, and the case has softer lines, making the watch look slimmer. The diameter of 40 mm, however, remains unchanged.

The most significant update was made inside the watch. The previous movement was swapped out for the in-house caliber 4131, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and Chronergy escapement for increased magnetic resistance.

Another modification was made to the platinum ref. 126506. Rolex awarded this timepiece with a sapphire crystal case back, allowing you to see the finely decorated movement boasting a yellow gold rotor beneath. The current platinum Daytona is thus one of the rare Rolex watches in which the movement is visible through the case back.

Daytona With a Diamond Bezel

As part of Watches and Wonders 2024, Rolex expanded the Daytona collection with a series of new models characterized by a common feature: a bezel adorned with 36 diamonds. You can choose between trapeze-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds. If you opt for the former, the watch's lugs and the crown guard are also set with precious gems.

The new models come in rose, yellow, or white gold, with dial colors ranging from black, gold, and silver to an antique pink the brand calls "Sundust" and various shades of mother-of-pearl.

For a secure fit on the wrist, you can choose between an Oyster bracelet that matches the case or a sportier Oysterflex bracelet.

Features of the Rolex Daytona

• Tricompax design
• Fixed bezel with tachymeter scale
• Screw-down crown and push-pieces
• Water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft)
• Available in stainless steel, gold, platinum, or two-tone variants

Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II

Rolex originally developed the GMT-Master for Pan Am pilots. The GMT-Master and its subsequent model, the GMT-Master II, more or less set the standard for watches with a second time zone.

At first glance, the GMT-Master strongly resembles the Submariner. However, if you take a closer look, you'll see several differentiating factors. The most obvious difference is the 24-hour bezel. On most models, this bezel is usually divided into two colors to distinguish between day and night. The most popular color combinations are red and blue (Rolex Pepsi), black and red (Rolex Coke), blue and black (Rolex Batman), brown and black (Rolex Root Beer), and green and black (Rolex Sprite introduced in 2022).

Another difference is the additional central GMT hand, which, together with the bezel, indicates the time in a second time zone.

GMT-Master II Update – New Colors and Materials in 2023

In early 2023, Rolex unveiled two new versions of the GMT-Master II. These are the yellow gold ref. 126718GRNR and two-tone ref. 126713GRNR. Like the stainless steel versions, these models are powered by the caliber 3285, measure 40 mm in diameter, and are water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). What’s new, however, is the black and gray ceramic bezel inlay.

Black and Gray GMT-Master II in Stainless Steel

As of Watches and Wonders 2024, the black and gray bezel color combination is also available with the GMT-Master II in stainless steel. The watch bears the reference number 126710GRNR and is technically identical to the other timepieces in the collection.

Along with the bezel, Rolex also gave the GMT hand and the GMT-Master lettering on the dial a new color, both of which now shine in a rich green.

The watch is available with a sporty Oyster bracelet or the Jubilee bracelet familiar to Datejust fans.

Features of the Rolex GMT-Master

• GMT watch (second time zone)
• Colorful 24-hour bezels
• Water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft)
• Available in stainless steel, gold, or two-tone editions

Datejust – The Classic Dress Watch

The Datejust has been a cornerstone of Rolex's catalog since 1945. Since the release of the 40th Anniversary Edition, this timepiece has defined what it means to be a sporty dress watch. Its simple design, with a narrow bezel, slender baton hands, and a Cyclops lens date display at 3 o'clock, has remained virtually untouched since the very first model, ref. 4467. The Jubilee bracelet, which debuted alongside the Datejust, also remains in the Rolex catalog to this day.

The original version of the Datejust has a diameter of 36 mm. Rolex has since expanded the range to include versions with diameters of 26, 31, 34, and 41 mm. As for materials, you have the choice between stainless steel, white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and two-tone combinations of gold and stainless steel. There are also a wide range of dial designs to choose from. In fact, since 2021, the Datejust 36 is even available with dials featuring palm trees or resembling the fluting of the signature Datejust bezel.

Compared to other classic Rolexes, Datejust prices are relatively affordable. Newer models like the 41-mm ref. 126300 with a blue sunburst dial and smooth bezel, change hands on Chrono24 for roughly 11,400 USD. The price of the ref. 126334 with a blue dial, diamond indices, and fluted bezel climbs to just over 15,000 USD. Vintage versions from the 1960s and 70s are much more affordable. The prices for such models start at about 5,000 USD. However, should you wish to purchase the original ref. 4467, a well-maintained example will set you back about 20,000 USD.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date as Alternative to the Datejust

The Oyster Perpetual Date is an affordable alternative to the Datejust. The 34-mm watch shares the same design language as the Datejust, but is only available in stainless steel with a polished bezel. The price, however, is extremely attractive: you can find unworn examples on Chrono24 for between 3,800 and 7,750 USD.

Features of the Rolex Datejust

• Sporty dress watch with cult status
• Date display with Cyclops lens
• Men's and women's models
• Large selection of dial designs
• Available in stainless steel or two-tone versions
• Jubilee bracelet

Day-Date: The Presidential Watch

In 1956, Rolex made history once again with the release of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, a.k.a. the Rolex “President.” It was the first wristwatch capable of displaying both the date and day of the week written out in full. Like the Datejust, its date display is located under a Cyclops lens at 3 o'clock, while its additional day window arcs over the famous Rolex crown at 12 o'clock. Rolex also created a unique bracelet for the Day-Date – the President Bracelet.

The watch is still only available in gold or platinum, and comes in sizes of 36 and 40 mm.

For Watches and Wonders 2024, Rolex added a number of new dial variants to the collection, available for both the 36-mm version and the 40-mm model. These “ombré” dials are particularly interesting. They feature a color gradient that begins in the center of the dial and fades to deep black toward the edge. The dials feature applied Roman indices.

Features of the Rolex Day-Date

• Date display, and day of the week written out in full
• Cyclops lens
• Available in 36 or 40 mm
• Gold or platinum cases
• President bracelet

New Rolex Releases From Watches and Wonders 2024

Along with the new models mentioned above, Rolex presented a number of other new products at Watches and Wonders 2024. Here is a brief overview:

Rolex Deepsea in Gold

The Rolex Deepsea is now also available in an 18-karat yellow gold version with the reference number 136668LB. The dial and the ceramic inlay of the bezel are a vibrant blue.

Technically, everything remains the same as before: the watch is water-resistant to 3,900 m (390 bar, 12,800 ft), features an automatic helium escape valve, and is powered by the in-house caliber 3235.

New Bracelet for the Sky-Dweller

The Sky-Dweller also got an update. The all-gold versions of Rolex's most complicated wristwatch are now available with the five-link Jubilee bracelet.

The 1908 in Platinum

The 1908 collection received an interesting new addition at Watches and Wonders 2024 in the form of ref. 52506, a platinum model featuring an ice-blue dial with a fine guilloché pattern. Like the other models in the collection, the watch is powered by the in-house, certified "Superlative Chronometer" caliber 7140 with a 66-hour power reserve.

The watch is worn on a brown or black alligator leather strap with a double folding clasp called a "Dualclasp."

Overview of 2024 Rolex Releases

• Rolex Daytona: Models in yellow, rose, or white gold with a diamond bezel
• Rolex GMT-Master II: Now available in a two-tone version or in yellow gold with a black and gray bezel
• Rolex 1908: New model in platinum with an ice-blue guilloché dial
• Rolex Sky-Dweller: Full gold models with Jubilee bracelet
• Rolex Day-Date: New dials

Unique Logo: the five-pointed crown

The story of Rolex begins in 1905, when German entrepreneur Hans Wilsdorf, together with Alfred Davis, founded the watch wholesaler Wilsdorf & Davis in London. Davis oversaw the production of the cases, while Wilsdorf sourced the necessary movements from the Swiss company Aegler. In 1908, they trademarked the name “Rolex.” The catchy name most likely comes from "rolling export," but there is no solid proof of the origin.

The five-point crown became a symbol of the brand in 1925. The story behind the development of the logo remains a closely-guarded secret. Experts suspect that the five-pointed crown stands for the five fingers of a watchmaker or the letters in “Rolex.” The crown logo and the name “Rolex” have appeared on every dial, crown, and clasp since 1939.

Revolutionaries Che Guevara and Fidel Castro also recognized and appreciated the qualities of Rolex. It's not known whether the robustness of the watch helped the Cuban Revolution in 1959, but Che and Fidel certainly contributed to the brand's legacy. No other watch manufacturer has managed to appeal to such a wide range of customers, from the most powerful people on Earth to the Dalai Lama and model Elle Macpherson.

Chronometer Certification Since 1910

Rolex's in-house calibres are renowned for their precision. Each watch comes with a certificate from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres, or COSC). In addition to the COSC tests, Rolex re-tests all its watches in-house once the movement is in its case. Rolex has even stricter requirements, allowing a maximum deviation of only +/-2 seconds per day.

Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf recognized the importance of precision at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1910, he sent a watch to a local watchmaking school in Biel/Bienne for evaluation. The movement was tested for 14 days and passed. At the end of this two-week process, the testers issued the world's first wristwatch chronometer certificate and sent it to London.

Social Commitment – The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation

When you buy a Rolex watch, you’re also doing a good deed. Company founder Wilsdorf never had any children of his own. Shortly after his wife's death, he left all of his Rolex shares to the newly-established Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. The Foundation is owned by Rolex and receives a large portion of its annual profits. This money is used to support social initiatives, environmental programs, and scientific, artistic, and cultural projects.