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Cartier Santos 100 W200737G Large Box & Swiss Papers 2008
TOP
Cartier Santos 100 W200737G Large Box & Swiss Papers 2008
$5,041
Seller
Luxusbörse Zürich Exclusive
18
CH
Sinn 956 Klassik
TOP
Sinn 956 Klassik
$3,475
Seller
Classic Watch
 
DE
Rolex Daytona Big Red 6263
Rolex Daytona Big Red 6263
$129,900
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Rolex Submariner Stainless Steel Date Display Black Bezel/Dial
Rolex Submariner Stainless Steel Date Display Black Bezel/Dial
$6,250
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm
$41,500
Seller
Material Good
 
US
Cartier - Cartier Santos 100 XL - 2792 - Men - 2000-2010
Auction
Cartier - Cartier Santos 100 XL - 2792 - Men - 2000-2010
$12,023
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Porsche Design Dashboard
TOP
Porsche Design Dashboard
$1,399
Seller
The Timery
10
US
Hublot Formula 1 King Power F1 Ceramic Limited SEALED
Hublot Formula 1 King Power F1 Ceramic Limited SEALED
$28,000
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava Vintage 3429J Yellow Dial 3X signed
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Vintage 3429J Yellow Dial 3X signed
$9,850
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Audemars Piguet ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD
TOP
Audemars Piguet ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD
$60,500
Free shipping
Seller
Brilliance and Grace
16
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
$20,950
Seller
Stein Diamonds
12
US
Rolex Submariner (No Date)
Rolex Submariner (No Date)
$24,990
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Rolex Cosmograph
Rolex Cosmograph
$23,500
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal limited Editions Black Toro
TOP
Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal limited Editions Black Toro
$164,000
Seller
Sea Wave Diamonds
80
US
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
$46,950
Seller
Heritage Jewelry and Loan
5
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus  5990/1A-001 Stainless Steel Men's...
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-001 Stainless Steel Men's...
$59,400
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
106
US
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition
$13,500
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Patek Philippe VINTAGE  PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
TOP
Patek Philippe VINTAGE PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
$8,400
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Submariner Date
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
$8,300
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Breguet New Style Type  - XXI Flyback Chrono.
TOP
Breguet New Style Type - XXI Flyback Chrono.
$9,975
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
11
US
Rolex GMT-Master
Rolex GMT-Master
$13,900
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Dunand 1925 14k Yellow Gold Dunand Repeater Open Face Pocket...
Dunand 1925 14k Yellow Gold Dunand Repeater Open Face Pocket...
$2,295
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Panerai PAM 63 LUMINOR GMT TOM CRUISE SPECIAL EDITION
TOP
Panerai PAM 63 LUMINOR GMT TOM CRUISE SPECIAL EDITION
$6,295
Seller
Swiss Moves
31
US
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
$7,560
Free shipping
Seller
Brilliance and Grace
16
US
Rolex 116300 Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Custom Diamond Watch
TOP
Rolex 116300 Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Custom Diamond Watch
$16,999
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
106
US
Patek Philippe 5150J - T150 Annual Calendar Tiffany / LIMITED...
Patek Philippe 5150J - T150 Annual Calendar Tiffany / LIMITED...
$75,000
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Cartier VINTAGE 1910 Rare Enamel Diamond 18k Pocket Watch
TOP
Cartier VINTAGE 1910 Rare Enamel Diamond 18k Pocket Watch
$11,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex SS Date Blue Stick w/ Oyster Bracelet 1500 non-quickset
TOP
Rolex SS Date Blue Stick w/ Oyster Bracelet 1500 non-quickset
$3,195
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
108
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean James Bond "SKYFALL"...
TOP
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean James Bond "SKYFALL"...
$4,999
Seller
Phigora
83
US
Rolex Submariner 18 Kt Gold
Rolex Submariner 18 Kt Gold
$39,900
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Universal Genève Details about  18k Yellow Gold Universal...
Universal Genève Details about 18k Yellow Gold Universal...
$2,195
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Rolex vintage 1983 GMT-Master
TOP
Rolex vintage 1983 GMT-Master
$8,500
Seller
Paul Duggan Co., Inc
48
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
TOP
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
$3,999
Free shipping
Seller
Brilliance and Grace
16
US
Rolex Submariner 116618 bl 18K Yellow Gold Automatic Men's W
TOP
Rolex Submariner 116618 bl 18K Yellow Gold Automatic Men's W
$27,499
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
106
US
Panerai PAM 616 Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days...
Panerai PAM 616 Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days...
$15,000
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas
TOP
Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas
$350,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Hublot Big Bang
TOP
Hublot Big Bang
$8,995
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
55
US
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3576.50.00 Mechanical Moonphase
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3576.50.00 Mechanical Moonphase
$3,999
Seller
Phigora
83
US
Omega COSMIC 2000 1975
Omega COSMIC 2000 1975
$4,990
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Rolex Men's Sea-Dweller
Rolex Men's Sea-Dweller
$10,900
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$8,500
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Rolex Sky-Dweller Steel 42mm Steel and Yellow Gold
TOP
Rolex Sky-Dweller Steel 42mm Steel and Yellow Gold
$16,300
Free shipping
Seller
Brilliance and Grace
16
US
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970R
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970R
Price on request
Seller
Michael Ashton
 
US
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback
$4,500
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Vacheron Constantin VINTAGE  18k WG Diamond Onyx Tuxedo Dial
TOP
Vacheron Constantin VINTAGE 18k WG Diamond Onyx Tuxedo Dial
$21,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Heuer Vintage Monaco Steve McQueen Chronograph Stainless Steel
TOP
Heuer Vintage Monaco Steve McQueen Chronograph Stainless Steel
$24,995
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
55
US
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
TOP
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
$5,399
Seller
Phigora
83
US
Omega Speedmaster Racing Limited Michael Schumacher
Omega Speedmaster Racing Limited Michael Schumacher
$2,990
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Details about  18k Yellow Gold Jaeger-LeCoult...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Details about 18k Yellow Gold Jaeger-LeCoult...
$12,000
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Breitling NAVITIMER WORLD GMT CROCODILE BAND DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
TOP
Breitling NAVITIMER WORLD GMT CROCODILE BAND DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
$4,895
Seller
Swiss Moves
31
US
Rolex 1985 SS GMT Master ll "Fat Lady" 16760 w/...
TOP
Rolex 1985 SS GMT Master ll "Fat Lady" 16760 w/...
$9,495
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
108
US
TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph Date 41MM CV2010
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph Date 41MM CV2010
$1,675
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Noble
5
US
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Americas Limited Edition
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Americas Limited Edition
$8,100
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US
Piaget MASSIVE PIAGET POLO FACTORY DIAMOND SET ONYX BACKWIND
TOP
Piaget MASSIVE PIAGET POLO FACTORY DIAMOND SET ONYX BACKWIND
$18,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Ladies President 179178 18k Yellow Gold Box & Papers...
TOP
Rolex Ladies President 179178 18k Yellow Gold Box & Papers...
$11,195
Free shipping
Seller
Quality Diamonds
 
US
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 214270 Stainless Steel
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 214270 Stainless Steel
$5,399
Seller
Phigora
83
US
Gérald Genta SPORT SSP.L10
Gérald Genta SPORT SSP.L10
$2,990
Seller
Upper Watches
US
Hamilton 10k Gold Filled 23 Jewel  Pocket Watch Model #950...
Hamilton 10k Gold Filled 23 Jewel Pocket Watch Model #950...
$1,200
Seller
Tangible Investments
 
US
Breitling Navitimer 18K Rose Gold Mens Auto Watch RB012012/BA4...
TOP
Breitling Navitimer 18K Rose Gold Mens Auto Watch RB012012/BA4...
$13,885
Free shipping
Seller
Inventory Adjusters
83
US
Rolex Datejust 36 Diamond Champagne Dial Box & Papers 1989
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36 Diamond Champagne Dial Box & Papers 1989
$4,477
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
28
US
Rolex Lady President Datejust 179166 Platinum MOP Diamonds
TOP
Rolex Lady President Datejust 179166 Platinum MOP Diamonds
$17,500
Seller
Old World Jewelers
 
US
Ulysse Nardin Monaco Yacht Show 2010 LIMITED EDITION
Ulysse Nardin Monaco Yacht Show 2010 LIMITED EDITION
$14,950
Free shipping
Seller
BuyGoodWatches
 
US

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.
Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.
The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.
One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.