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Doxa SHARK CERAMICA
TOP
Doxa SHARK CERAMICA
$1,468
Free shipping
Seller
Przedsiębiorstwo Handlowe Usługowe
48
PL
Doxa NEW SHARK 300L CERAMICA D200SGN
TOP
Doxa NEW SHARK 300L CERAMICA D200SGN
$1,468
Free shipping
Seller
Przedsiębiorstwo Handlowe Usługowe
48
PL
Richard Mille RM037 White Gold Full diamond
Richard Mille RM037 White Gold Full diamond
$155,000
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Rolex | A Stainless Steel And Yellow Gold Automatic Chronograp...
Auction
Rolex | A Stainless Steel And Yellow Gold Automatic Chronograp...
$8,446
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
TOP
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
$1,799
Seller
The Timery
5
US
Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas
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Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas
$350,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
IWC Portuguese Chronograph white dial
TOP
IWC Portuguese Chronograph white dial
$4,500
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
10
US
Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal limited Editions Black Toro
TOP
Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal limited Editions Black Toro
$164,000
Seller
Sea Wave Diamonds
73
US
Rolex 18k Gold Oyster 1501 Perpetual 6504138 1980 Automatic...
TOP
Rolex 18k Gold Oyster 1501 Perpetual 6504138 1980 Automatic...
$9,806
Seller
GMTSKY
195
US
Rolex vintage 1985 GMT-Master
TOP
Rolex vintage 1985 GMT-Master
$8,500
Seller
Paul Duggan Co., Inc
45
US
Rolex SS Date Blue Stick w/ Oyster Bracelet 1500 non-quickset
TOP
Rolex SS Date Blue Stick w/ Oyster Bracelet 1500 non-quickset
$3,195
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
105
US
Rolex DAYTONA Cosmograph 116599 18k White  Gold Original Diamonds
Rolex DAYTONA Cosmograph 116599 18k White Gold Original Diamonds
$85,000
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Rolex | A Lady's Stainless Steel And Yellow Gold Automatic...
Auction
Rolex | A Lady's Stainless Steel And Yellow Gold Automatic...
$1,559
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5
$899
Seller
The Timery
5
US
Patek Philippe VINTAGE  PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
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Patek Philippe VINTAGE PATEK PHILIPPE1960S 18KT YG REF 3425 AUTO
$8,400
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Daytona
TOP
Rolex Daytona
$12,500
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Breitling Chronomat B13050.1 Automatic
TOP
Breitling Chronomat B13050.1 Automatic
$2,159
Seller
Phigora
74
US
Rolex Datejust Vintage 1601 Solid Gold and Steel 1977 Swiss...
TOP
Rolex Datejust Vintage 1601 Solid Gold and Steel 1977 Swiss...
$4,761
Seller
GMTSKY
195
US
Patek Philippe Ref# 5711, Nautilus, blue dial
TOP
Patek Philippe Ref# 5711, Nautilus, blue dial
Price on request
Seller
Michael Ashton
 
US
Rolex 1988 SS GMT Master ll "Fat Lady" w/ Box, Papers,...
TOP
Rolex 1988 SS GMT Master ll "Fat Lady" w/ Box, Papers,...
$14,995
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
105
US
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Flyback Chronograph Rose Gold
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Flyback Chronograph Rose Gold
$22,300
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Rolex | A Pink Gold Automatic center Seconds Wristwatch With Date
Auction
Rolex | A Pink Gold Automatic center Seconds Wristwatch With Date
$1,949
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
TAG Heuer Grand Carrera
TOP
TAG Heuer Grand Carrera
$1,299
Seller
The Timery
5
US
IWC VINTAGE  1940 PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
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IWC VINTAGE 1940 PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
$40,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Submariner Date
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
$8,300
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3576.50.00 Mechanical Moonphase
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3576.50.00 Mechanical Moonphase
$3,999
Seller
Phigora
74
US
Patek Philippe World Time 5230G
TOP
Patek Philippe World Time 5230G
$87,000
Seller
Chad Warrick
 
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Blue Steel 44mm
TOP
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Blue Steel 44mm
$4,295
Seller
The Watch Collector NY
 
US
Cartier Diamond Cartier Santos 100 Xl Chronograph 17ct Natural...
TOP
Cartier Diamond Cartier Santos 100 Xl Chronograph 17ct Natural...
$14,500
Seller
Watch My Diamonds
49
US
Breitling Cockpit Steal and Gold Diamond bezel
Breitling Cockpit Steal and Gold Diamond bezel
$5,200
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Panerai | A Stainless Steel Cushion-form Automatic Split...
Auction
Panerai | A Stainless Steel Cushion-form Automatic Split...
$7,796
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5
TOP
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5
$1,399
Seller
The Timery
5
US
Cartier VINTAGE1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel cord
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Cartier VINTAGE1920 Platinum ladies Pave Diamond Enamel cord
$17,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Daytona
TOP
Rolex Daytona
$11,500
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 16013 Quickset
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 16013 Quickset
$3,599
Seller
Phigora
74
US
Breitling NAVITIMER WORLD GMT CROCODILE BAND DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
TOP
Breitling NAVITIMER WORLD GMT CROCODILE BAND DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
$4,695
Seller
Swiss Moves
26
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 18K blue dial
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 18K blue dial
$53,000
Seller
Sea Wave Diamonds
73
US
Patek Philippe Ref# 5712/1A-001 Stainless Steel, Nautilus
TOP
Patek Philippe Ref# 5712/1A-001 Stainless Steel, Nautilus
Price on request
Seller
Michael Ashton
 
US
Graham Chronofighter Oversize Chronofighter Oversize Black Arrow
Graham Chronofighter Oversize Chronofighter Oversize Black Arrow
$4,850
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Alain Silberstein | A Limited Edition Stainless Steel Automati...
Auction
Alain Silberstein | A Limited Edition Stainless Steel Automati...
$1,819
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
Breitling Chronomat Blackbird
TOP
Breitling Chronomat Blackbird
$1,999
Seller
The Timery
5
US
Cartier 1912 ART DECO PLATINUM CHAIN ENAMEL PENDANT WATCH
TOP
Cartier 1912 ART DECO PLATINUM CHAIN ENAMEL PENDANT WATCH
$21,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Daytona
TOP
Rolex Daytona
$9,690
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Cartier Santos 100 Automatic Stainless Steel 2878
TOP
Cartier Santos 100 Automatic Stainless Steel 2878
$3,599
Seller
Phigora
74
US
Rolex 2008 40mm SS Explorer ll  White Dial - 3186 Caliber...
TOP
Rolex 2008 40mm SS Explorer ll White Dial - 3186 Caliber...
$5,995
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
105
US
Rolex Ladies President 179178 18k Yellow Gold Box & Papers...
TOP
Rolex Ladies President 179178 18k Yellow Gold Box & Papers...
$11,195
Free shipping
Seller
Quality Diamonds
 
US
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 Blue Dial Index  Rare (1997)
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 Blue Dial Index Rare (1997)
$3,997
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
24
US
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture 45mm 1186-122-3/42
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture 45mm 1186-122-3/42
$25,300
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Franck Muller | A Black Titanium And Pink Gold Tonneau-form...
Auction
Franck Muller | A Black Titanium And Pink Gold Tonneau-form...
$5,198
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
Porsche Design Dashboard
TOP
Porsche Design Dashboard
$1,599
Seller
The Timery
5
US
Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter CLOCK
TOP
Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter CLOCK
$65,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
TOP
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
$32,640
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Panerai Luminor  1950 Limited Edition PAM127/ OP6576 FIDDY
TOP
Panerai Luminor 1950 Limited Edition PAM127/ OP6576 FIDDY
$12,499
Seller
Phigora
74
US
Omega SS Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chrono Box,Papers,Manual
TOP
Omega SS Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial Chrono Box,Papers,Manual
$3,495
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
105
US
Rolex Datejust Turnograph 116263 18k YG & Stainless  Box...
TOP
Rolex Datejust Turnograph 116263 18k YG & Stainless Box...
$6,995
Free shipping
Seller
Quality Diamonds
 
US
Heuer Vintage Monaco Steve McQueen Chronograph Stainless Steel
TOP
Heuer Vintage Monaco Steve McQueen Chronograph Stainless Steel
$24,995
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
49
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Platinum Limited to...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Platinum Limited to...
$33,200
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
7
US
Tudor | A Stainless Steel Automatic Center Second Bracelet...
Auction
Tudor | A Stainless Steel Automatic Center Second Bracelet...
$1,559
Estimated price
Seller
Sotheby´s
 
Patek Philippe Ref# 5980/1A, black dial, Nautilus, Chronograph
TOP
Patek Philippe Ref# 5980/1A, black dial, Nautilus, Chronograph
Price on request
Seller
Michael Ashton
 
US
Piaget MASSIVE 36mm 1970s 18KT WG AUTOMATIC CUFFLING SET BOX
TOP
Piaget MASSIVE 36mm 1970s 18KT WG AUTOMATIC CUFFLING SET BOX
$10,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Datejust
TOP
Rolex Datejust
$4,500
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
TOP
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
$5,399
Seller
Phigora
74
US

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run,