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Tudor Black Bay: Retro Watches, Modern Technology
The Black Bay is the most successful collection from Geneva-based watch manufacturer Tudor. Harmonious retro designs and precise technology define this line. Top models are made of bronze, gold, ceramic, or sterling silver and use in-house movements.
Classic Design Reimagined
The Tudor Black Bay belongs to the retro Heritage collection and is one of the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer's flagship models. The Geneva-based company introduced the Black Bay diving watch in 2012 and continues to expand the line with new models. Its vintage look is inspired by historic Tudor Submariner timepieces, which is why the new models feature domed crystals and large crowns without guards. "Snowflake hands" with square tips are another distinctive feature of this series.
In 2018, Tudor released the Black Bay GMT, which is also powered by an in-house caliber. This timepiece bears a strong resemblance to the Rolex GMT-Master "Pepsi" launched that same year. Tudor simultaneously presented a smaller version of the Black Bay, known as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Since its debut, the Fifty-Eight has evolved into a comprehensive collection with materials ranging from stainless steel to bronze, gold, and sterling silver. The Black Bay Fifty-Four, a 37-mm version of the classic Black Bay with a black bezel, attracted a great deal of attention upon its release in 2023.
Tudor presented more new Black Bay models at Watches and Wonders 2024. Among them was a 41-mm monochrome version with a black bezel, silver indices, and a Jubilee bracelet. The brand also introduced the 39-mm Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT, Tudor's first Black Bay with a second time zone.
The Black Bay collection also contains watches without diving bezels. These timepieces feature a polished bezel and are known as the Black Bay 31, 32, 36, 39, and 41, with each number referencing the case size. A two-tone version is also available.
Tudor has been equipping almost every Black Bay model with in-house movements since 2016. These calibers have an impressive 70-hour power reserve and a certificate from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) or Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).
Reasons to Buy a Tudor Black Bay
- Retro sports watches with state-of-the-art technology
- Chronometer-certified in-house calibers
- In-house movements with a 70-hour power reserve
- Black Bay Dark: solid black watches
- Black Bay Fifty-Four with a diameter of 37 mm
Prices for the Tudor Black Bay
Model, reference number | Price (approx.) | Features |
Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, M79018V-0001 | 13,600 USD | Gold case, green bezel, green dial |
Black Bay Chrono, M79360N-0002 | 4,900 USD | Chronograph, date, tachymeter scale, panda dial |
Black Bay, M7941A1A0RU-0003 | 4,600 USD | Burgundy bezel, Jubilee bracelet, METAS certification |
Black Bay Fifty-Four, M79000N-0001 | 4,300 USD | Black bezel, 37-mm diameter |
Black Bay Pro, M79470-0001 | 3,860 USD | GMT function, 39-mm diameter |
Black Bay Fifty-Eight, M79030N-0001 | 3,750 USD | 39 mm, gilt dial, in-house caliber |
Black Bay GMT, M79830RB-0003 | 3,500 USD | GMT function, Pepsi bezel, black dial |
How much does a Black Bay cost?
For a diving watch from the Black Bay collection in mint condition with a black bezel, black dial, and textile strap, you should budget at least 3,150 USD. The same watch will set you back about 500 USD more on a stainless steel bracelet. As of spring 2024, the popular Black Bay Fifty-Eight with a gilt dial changed hands on Chrono24 for roughly 3,700 USD, while the Black Bay Fifty-Four cost approximately 4,580 USD at that time.
If you're interested in a Black Bay with a GMT function, expect to shell out about 3,700 USD. Fans of two-tone watches like the steel and gold Black Bay S&G can expect to invest about 5,700 USD. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in gold with a gold bracelet tops the collection's price range at about 35,400 USD.
Depending on the model, a Black Bay chronograph will set you back anywhere from 4,900 to 6,500 USD. One exception is the solid black Black Bay Chrono Dark, which changes hands for roughly 9,250 USD.
The Black Bay 31, 32, 36, 39, and 41 are by far the collection's most affordable options. One of these sporty dress watches will set you back between 2,600 and 3,800 USD.
About the Tudor Black Bay
There are numerous versions of the Black Bay retro diving watch on the market. The first model was released in 2012 with a 41-mm diameter and red bezel. The Black Bay Blue with a blue bezel appeared two years later, followed by the long-desired Black Bay Black with a black bezel in 2015.
2016 saw the release of the Black Bay Bronze and the Black Bay Dark, with a black coating on its stainless steel case and bracelet. These were the first timepieces to feature the Tudor caliber MT5612. Earlier models used ETA calibers. No matter which version you choose, it'll be water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft).
Black Bay Watches With ETA Calibers
The first Black Bay models with stainless steel bracelets bear the reference numbers 79220N (black), 79220B (blue), and 79220R (red). Since Tudor ceased production of these models several years ago, the number of watches on the market is limited. Even so, you'll still regularly find well-maintained specimens, including versions on a textile or leather strap.
The prices of these timepieces are very similar to those of discontinued Rolex models - they are rising. Although prices in May 2024 were no longer quite as high as they were a year before, a pre-owned 79220N on a stainless steel bracelet will still set you back about 4,300 USD. If you opt for the red version, the price will fall to around 3,650 USD, while the blue version is the cheapest option and costs approximately 3,590 USD.
Black Bay Watches With In-House Calibers
Those looking for a 41-mm Black Bay with an in-house caliber should turn to more recent models. You will find classic stainless steel models with a red, black, or blue bezel as well as two-tone watches in the Black Bay S&G and Black Bay Steel series. The latter features a stainless steel bezel and, unlike the standard model, hosts a date display at 3 o'clock. The Black Bay S&G ref. M79733N-0008 with a steel and gold bracelet will set you back about 5,800 USD new, while the Black Bay Steel ref. M79730-0006 with a steel bracelet is a bit more affordable at 3,800 USD.
Up until a few years ago, Tudor also produced the solid black Black Bay Dark. The Geneva-based manufacturer used a PVD (physical vapor deposition) process to coat the stainless steel case and bracelet in black. The watch looks both sporty and reserved at the same time, and changes hands for roughly 3,900 USD with a metal bracelet.
The Black Bay Dark's successor, the Black Bay Ceramic ref. M79210CNU-0001, debuted in 2021. This time, the watch's case and bezel insert are made of black ceramic instead of coated metal. Tudor only manufactures the crown, outer bezel, and case back out of PVD-coated stainless steel. However, this model's true highlight sits within its case. Here, you'll find the in-house caliber MT5602-1U with a silicon hairspring. Its black components make it a feast for the eyes, and it is the first non-Omega movement to receive Master Chronometer certification. The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) only issues this distinction after a watch has passed tests of its accuracy, magnetic resistance, water resistance, and power reserve. Tudor offers the Black Bay Ceramic on a hybrid leather and rubber strap. You can call this timepiece your own for around 4,620 USD.
In the spring of 2023, Tudor presented an updated version of the 41-mm Black Bay with a burgundy bezel under the reference number M7941A1A0RU-0003. The new watch differs from its predecessor in that it's offered on a five-link Jubilee bracelet rather than just an Oyster bracelet. Another significant change is the in-house caliber MT5602-U, which is METAS and COSC-certified. The watch is also more than 1 mm thinner than the earlier model, with an overall thickness of just 13.6 mm. Those who were bothered by the snowflake second hand can now breathe a sigh of relief, as Tudor has given the new watch a lollipop hand with a small circle at the tip.
In spring 2024, the version with the Jubilee bracelet cost an average of 4,460 USD, while versions with an Oyster bracelet or rubber strap are slightly cheaper.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, Tudor presented a new Black Bay model, available on three different straps. The dial and bezel are black, while the hands and indices have a silver look, making this watch – along with the blue version – the only Black Bay available in a monochrome color scheme. Like the Black Bay with a burgundy bezel introduced in 2023, this version is also powered by the METAS-certified caliber MT5602-U.
On a stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee style bracelet, this watch will set you back about 5,300 USD, while the version on a rubber strap costs approximately 4,700 USD.
Black Bay Bronze
Tudor's bronze watch is available on a brown leather strap or dark textile strap with decorative bronze-colored stripes. The 43-mm aluminum bronze case is completely satin-brushed. Over time, this material will develop a distinctive patina, bringing to mind historical diving equipment and ship parts. The aluminum dial and bezel insert are a matte, slate gray and contrast beautifully with the bronze hands, numerals, and indices. The COSC-certified in-house caliber MT5601 provides the timepiece with a 70-hour power reserve.
You can buy the Black Bay Bronze on a leather or textile strap for approximately 4,200 USD on Chrono24. If you opt for a bronze bracelet, the price climbs to around 5,000 USD.
The 39-mm Black Bay Fifty-Eight
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is one of this collection's most popular watches. When Tudor first presented this model in 2018, it received near-universal praise. Some even went as far as to say it was the world's best diving watch. Up to that point, many Black Bay fans had expressed frustration at the watch's bulky, 41-mm case. Tudor took their concerns to heart when crafting the Fifty-Eight, shrinking the case to 39 mm and giving it a flatter, more elegant design.
You'll find the standard Fifty-Eight on a stainless steel, leather, or NATO strap priced between 3,400 and 4,000 USD on Chrono24.
In recent years, Tudor has expanded the Fifty-Eight series to include watches like the ref. M79030B with a blue dial and bezel, released in 2020. The version on a blue leather strap costs about 3,480 USD, while the same watch on a textile strap or steel bracelet changes hands for roughly 3,590 USD.
At Watches and Wonders 2021, Tudor surprised the watchmaking world with three new models: the Fifty-Eight 18K, the Fifty-Eight 925 and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. For the first time, not only the case but also the bracelet is made of brushed bronze. Alternatively, the watch comes with a brown textile strap that matches the color of the dial and bezel. The case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is made of 925 sterling silver. Its dial and bezel inlay are dove-gray, with white indices and hands. A dark brown leather strap or gray textile strap ensures a secure fit on the wrist. The latest model, the Fifty-Eight 18K, is made of 18-karat yellow gold (ref. M79018V-0001). Unlike other gold watches, however, the case is satin-finished to match the sporty aesthetic of the Black Bay collection. Tudor has designed the dial and bezel inlay in a matte green. This model is worn on a brown alligator leather strap. Tudor also fitted the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K with an 18-karat gold Oyster bracelet in 2024. This version can be found under the reference number M79018V-0006.
At roughly 4,100 USD, the silver Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is the most affordable of the trio. Next, there's the Bronze, which costs about 5,300 USD. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight in 18-karat gold occupies the high end of the price spectrum and demands an investment of approximately 13,600 USD. The official list price for the version with the solid gold Oyster bracelet (ref. M79018V-0006) is 32,100 USD.
New in 2024: The Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT was released in the spring of 2024. Long awaited by many fans of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight collection, this watch features a gilt dial with gold accents and a black and red "Coke" bezel. The numerals on the 24-hour bezel also match the gold color of the indices, minute track, and hands. Like the Black Bay diving watches, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight GMT's case is water-resistant to 200 meters (20 bar, 656 ft).
The watch is powered by the Tudor manufacture caliber MT5450-U, which is COSC and METAS certified. The movement has a power reserve of 65 hours. The Black Bay Fifty GMT can be found on an Oyster bracelet under the ref. M7939G1A0NRU-0001, while the rubber strap version bears the ref. M7939G1A0NRU-0002. The MSRP for the former is 4,600 USD, while the latter officially costs 4,400 USD. As of May 2024, there were no listings for these watches on the Chrono24 marketplace.
The 37-mm Black Bay Fifty-Four
To the surprise of many Black Bay fans, Tudor launched another version of the Black Bay in the spring of 2023, the Black Bay Fifty-Four. The watch measures only 37 mm across, and the thickness was also shaved down by 0.8 mm to just over 11 mm, making it a great choice for people with smaller wrists. The lug width remains a healthy 20 mm. Inside the case, you'll find the chronometer-certified Tudor caliber MT5400 ticking away.
The Black Bay Fifty-Four is worn on a stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap. Tudor's official price for these timepieces are 3,850 and 3,625 USD respectively, but prices on the secondary market in May 2024 were closer to 4,300 USD for the version with a stainless steel bracelet and 4,140 USD for the variant on a rubber strap.
A Prototype Reborn: The Black Bay P01
Those with more extravagant tastes may enjoy the Heritage Black Bay P01. This isn't your average wristwatch. Its design comes from a diving watch prototype Tudor developed for the U.S. Navy in the 1960s. However, the public didn't get their first glimpse of this once-secret watch until the 2019 release of its remake, the P01. Defining details include a crown at 4 o'clock and bulging lugs with clamps for locking the bezel in place – a feature unique to this timepiece alone. To rotate the bezel, you first have to release the clamp of the lug at 12 o'clock.
At 42 mm in diameter and 14.2 mm thick, this watch is also the largest three-hand Black Bay model. Its bezel and case are stainless steel, and every surface has a brushed finish. The black dial contrasts beautifully with the cream-colored indices, hands, and date disc. Finally, the brown leather strap features a black rubber lining on its wrist-facing side.
You can find a mint-condition P01 ref. M70150-0001 on Chrono24 for roughly 3,700 USD.
The Black Bay With a GMT Function
Are you frequently on the go and need to know the time in two places at once? If so, the Tudor Black Bay GMT may be the right watch for you. Like other standard Black Bay models, this timepiece measures 41 mm in diameter and has a stainless steel case with polished and brushed finishes. Most notably, it has a coveted blue and red "Pepsi" bezel with a 24-hour scale. The watch is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) and comes on your choice of a stainless steel, leather, or textile band.
The COSC-certified in-house caliber MT5652 powers this watch and comes with a 70-hour power reserve. It displays the time in two time zones using an independently-adjustable hour hand and has a date display.
If you want to call an unworn Black Bay GMT with a black dial (ref. M79830RB-0001) your own, plan to spend about 4,000 USD on Chrono24. The model with an opaline dial (ref. M79830RB-0010) will set you back another 200 USD.
The Two-Tone Black Bay GMT S&G
The Black Bay GMT has also been available as a two-tone S&G version since 2022. The models are identical to their stainless steel counterparts in terms of dimensions and technology, but have a stainless steel and gold case. You'll also find gold accents on the hands and indices, as well as on the bezel and crown. The center links of the Oyster bracelet on the version paired with an S&G band are also gold (though this Tudor watch is also available on a fabric or leather strap). If you're interested in the Black Bay S&G with a stainless steel and gold bracelet, expect to invest around 5,200 USD for one in mint-condition (as of early 2024). With prices averaging around 4,350 USD, the Black Bay GMT on a fabric or leather strap is considerably more affordable.
Black Bay Pro: Retro Diving Watches
Tudor introduced the Black Bay Pro ref. M79470 alongside the Black Bay GMT S&G models in 2022. With its distinctive yellow GMT hand and stainless steel bezel, this newer release is reminiscent of the legendary Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 from the 1970s and 80s. Unlike the Rolex, however, the Black Bay Pro features dot indices that than rectangular hour markers. That said, the Black Bay Pro exudes a distinct tool watch vibe all the same.
The case of the Black Bay Pro has a 39-mm diameter and is just under 15 mm thick. The watch's thickness is a point of contention for many watch enthusiasts, who find it unnecessarily top-heavy. The diameter, however, ensures that the watch looks good on most wrist sizes. The Black Bay Pro uses the in-house caliber MT5652 found in many other Black Bay GMT watches, meaning it also offers COSC certification and a 70-hour power reserve.
You can buy this timepiece on a stainless steel bracelet, fabric strap, or a hybrid rubber and leather strap.
The Black Bay Pro costs around 3,850 USD with a stainless steel bracelet. You can save about 400 USD by choosing the fabric strap instead. The midrange option here is the version with a rubber and leather strap, which changes hands for roughly 3,600 USD.
A Chronograph With an In-House Movement
A highlight within this series is the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, an automatic chronograph with two subdials and a date display. The manufacturer launched the original version (ref. M79350) in 2017 and equipped it with the caliber MT5813, which features a 70-hour power reserve. The chronograph operates using a column wheel, which many consider a higher-end and more prestigious alternative to the cam-actuated chronograph. The latter is used in the iconic Valjoux 7750 movement, among others.
The MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01, the movement that powers current Navitimer models. In return, Tudor provides Breitling with their own in-house automatic caliber MT5612 with three hands. The Rolex subsidiary modifies the B01 by using their own winding rotor and adding a silicon hairspring for more precise timekeeping.
The 41-mm stainless steel Black Bay Chrono M79350 has a stainless steel bezel with a tachymeter scale and a black dial. Thanks to the screw-down crown, pushers, and case back, this timepiece is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). The manufacturer chose to make the inscription indicating the water resistance red in the style of historic diving watches. You can use the subdial at 3 o'clock to measure periods of time up to 45 minutes. There's also a small seconds dial at 9 and a date display at 6. The price point for one of these chronographs sits at around 4,460 USD with a leather strap and 5,100 USD with a textile strap or steel bracelet.
Black and Two-Tone Black Bay Chronos
Tudor released new versions of the Black Bay Chrono in 2018 and 2019: the S&G and the Dark. Both have the same technology as the M79350 and differ only in their appearance.
The Black Bay Chrono S&G ref. M79363N is a classic two-tone watch. Two golden subdials help this model stand out from the crowd and create beautiful contrast with the otherwise black dial. This distinctive chronograph is available on a two-tone stainless steel bracelet, a textile strap, or a lined brown leather strap with white stitching. Depending on which band you choose, the two-tone chronograph will set you back anywhere from 4,800 to 6,550 USD.
You can never go wrong with black, as demonstrated by the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. The manufacturer launched this solid black model in 2019 in honor of the New Zealand All Blacks and Rugby World Cup. To date, Tudor has produced 1,181 copies of this watch – one for every player called up to the national team since 1884. While limited, the numbers will grow over time as new players make their international debuts. The Black Bay Chrono Dark comes with a black-coated stainless steel case. These timepieces rarely turn up on Chrono24, and when they do, they demand some 9,250 USD.
New Editions With Panda and Reverse Panda Dials
Tudor treated the Black Bay Chrono to a facelift in 2021. The most notable differences between the original from 2017 and ref. M79360N are the latter's slightly thinner case, black anodized aluminum bezel insert with a tachymeter scale, and redesigned dial. You can now choose from versions with a white dial and black subdials ("panda") or a black dial and white subdials ("reverse panda").
Inside the watch, you'll find the caliber MT5813. The band options are the same as before. The model with a textile or leather strap requires an investment of about 4,800 USD. The Black Bay Chrono M79360N with a stainless steel bracelet will set you back about 5,550 USD on Chrono24.
Features of the Black Bay Chrono
- Column wheel chronograph
- 41-mm case
- Available in stainless steel, black, or as a two-tone watch
- Models with panda and reverse panda dials
- Limited edition: Black Bay Chrono Dark
- Screw-down pushers for diving
Elegant Black Bay Watches
Those on the lookout for a more elegant sports watch should take a closer look at the Tudor Black Bay 31, 36, 39, or 41. Tudor released new versions in 2023 and, as their names imply, these models differ only in their case sizes. They look a bit more formal than the collection's diving watches and chronographs due to their polished, fixed bezel. The two-tone S&G models are especially refined. Thanks to a water resistance of 150 m (15 bar, 492 ft), you can keep these Black Bays on while swimming.
When it comes to dial options, you have the choice between blue, black, or champagne for the stainless steel models and black, champagne, or gold for the S&G editions. Tudor also offers the latter with a diamond-set bezel and/or a diamond-set dial.
Depending on the case diameter, these models are powered by the Tudor caliber MT5201 (31 mm), MT5400 (36 mm), MT5602 (39 mm), or MT5601 (41 mm). The power reserve for the 31-mm version is 50 hours, while the others can tick away uninterrupted for 70 hours. Tudor only offers this watches in this line with either a stainless steel or two-tone five-link bracelet.
Depending on the case size, dial color, and combination of materials, expect to pay between 3,800 USD for simple stainless steel models and approximately 8,200 USD for two-tone versions with diamond settings.