Breitling Chrono-Matic

In 1969, Breitling introduced the Chrono-Matic, a line of timepieces with one of the world's first automatic chronograph calibers. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer developed this then-revolutionary movement together with Heuer, Büren, and Dubois Dépraz. Known as "caliber 11," Breitling and many other brands equipped their timepieces with this movement.

The caliber 11 is famous for its two-subdial design with counters at 3 and 9 o'clock. Perhaps its most notable detail is the location of the crown on the case's left-hand side. Combined, these two features lend the Chrono-Matic its unmistakable personality. Breitling later used modified versions of the caliber 11, including the popular caliber 12, for its automatic chronographs.

One of the most famous Chrono-Matic models is the ref. 2110. However, the refs. 2111, 2112, and 2114 are also popular among collectors. Breitling also produced two versions of the Navtimer with the Chrono-Matic caliber – namely, the 1806 and 8806.

The Breitling Chrono-Matic is a relatively affordable options for those who want a truly unique vintage chronograph. Depending on the watch's condition and delivery contents, you can purchase a Chrono-Matic ref. 2114 with a pioneering caliber and unmistakeable design for as little as 2,300 USD. The ref. 2112 demands roughly 3,500 USD. Fans of gold Navitimers should take a closer look at the ref. 8806. This timepiece changes hands for about 5,800 USD.

The first Chrono-Matic bears the reference number 2110 and debuted in 1969. Its stainless steel case measures 39 mm in diameter. Today, you can find it as a used watch with a panda (white background with black subdials) or reverse panda (black background with white subdials) dial. Both versions come with applied indices and a tachymeter for calculating speed and distance around the dial's outer edge. They also feature bright orange hands for the hours, minutes, chronograph seconds, and 30-minute counter. Only the 12-hour-counter hand is black or white (depending on the main dial color). A date display at 6 o'clock completes the dial. Finally, this model features a rotatable bezel with a diving scale for tracking dive times.

Be sure to have around 4,000 USD on hand for this timepiece. However, prices can vary based on the watch's condition and whether or not it comes with its original accessories.

Ref. 2111: The Chrono-Matic With a Square Case

The manufacturer made significant changes to the Chrono-Matic's design in the 1970s – the heyday of square cases and unconventional dial designs. Breitling's contribution to these trends was the Chrono-Matic 2111. Its case is noticeably more angular and bears a strong resemblance to vintage TV sets. What's more, every surface has a rather coarse satin-brushed finish. The 1970s look continues on the dial, which is available in black or white and has subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock. Unlike the earlier Chrono-Matic models, these subdials sit within a contrasting oval that traverses the center of the dial from left to right. This design resembles the so-called "Zorro" dial, another Breitling creation found on Top-Time chronographs.

A well-maintained 2111 will set you back roughly 2,800 USD. For something truly extravagant, you should check out the ref. 2111-15. Instead of an oval, the subdials are joined by a date display within a contrasting trapezoid. Here, the small seconds is located between 9 and 10 o'clock, while the date window is squeezed between 6 and 7. Finally, the 2111-15 uses the caliber 15 instead of the caliber 11. As for the price, this unusual model costs about the same as the more conventional edition.

Breitling also produced versions of the Navitimer with Chrono-Matic calibers. One of the most famous references is the Navitimer 1806. A product of the 1970s, Breitling once manufactured the stainless steel edition for the Iraqi Air Force. Its 48-mm case makes quite an impression on the wrist. Its large size paired with a nearly octagonal case earned the 1806 the nickname "fried egg." As a Navitimer, its dial can feel quite intimidating. In addition to the various scales for calculating speed, fuel consumption, and rates of ascent and descent, this timepiece also features the caliber 11's iconic design with subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock and its crown on the left-hand side. The white subdials sit atop a black background; however, the orange chronograph seconds hand and 30-minute-counter hand add a nice splash of color.

A well-maintained Navitimer 1806 requires an investment of around 4,500 USD.

Chrono-Matic Navitimer 8806

The Navitimer 8806 also has a stainless steel case but has a much more modest 41-mm diameter. Its case shape and beaded bezel is largely in line with modern Navitimer models. Thanks to its caliber, the crown sits on the case's left side. The dial and its various functions are exactly what you'd expect from a Navitimer. Unlike the 1806, the 8806 lacks any colorful accents, pairing a black dial with a white date disc, hands, and subdials. The tachymeter around the dial's outer edge is also white.

You can find a used 8806 in stainless steel on Chrono24 for about 5,800 USD.