Moritz Grossmann: A Rising Star
Moritz Grossman is the German watch industry's up-and-comer. This manufacturer produces some of the world's most exquisite luxury watches. Their top models are exceptionally rare and feature a three-minute tourbillon.
5 Reasons to Buy a Watch from Mortiz Grossmann
- The most exquisite German luxury watches
- At least 85% vertical integration, including manufacturing of the hands
- Strictly limited top models with a tourbillon
- Intricately finished movements, sapphire jewel bearings
- Diamond-studded women's watches in the Tefnut Lady collection
Haute Horlogerie, Made in Germany
In-house movements, impeccable quality, and pure luxury define the Moritz Grossmann brand. This young Glashütte-based manufacturer is the latest wunderkind to emerge from the German watch industry. Founded in 2008, they have already released numerous models and limited editions. The three most important collections are called Benu, Atum, and Tefnut.
The company even has a tourbillon watch under their belt. This timepiece appears in the Benu collection and features a patented stop-seconds mechanism made of human hair. What's more, the luxury watch's three-minute tourbillon makes one full rotation every 180 seconds. Each edition of the Benu Tourbillon is strictly limited. For example, the Skylife with a blue band and dial is only available for aircraft owners. The white gold version with an anthracite-colored dial is limited to a run of ten pieces.
Another highlight from the Grossmann catalog is the Benu Anniversary Lost in Space. The company introduced this watch in celebration of their tenth anniversary in 2018. Since Moritz Großmann was born in 1826, this extraordinary timepiece is limited to 26 examples. Its main feature is the extreme size difference between the watch's case and movement. While the case is an impressive 44.5 mm in diameter, the caliber 102.0 comes in at a modest 26 mm. This leaves a lot of room to see through the watch. A movement holding ring and four struts keep the movement in place.
The dial is made up of three parts: a small seconds dial, a dial for the hours and minutes with a grand-feu enamel coating, and a large, hand-engraved disc. The disc represents the Moon and has a plastic look thanks to its curve. Moritz Grossman produces their hands in a characteristic rhombus shape. This rose gold luxury watch has an official list price of 45,600 euros (approx. 52,000 USD).
How much do Moritz Grossmann watches cost?
|Model||Price (approx.)||Case Material||Features|
|Benu Tourbillon, ref. MG-000779||199,000 USD||White gold||Three-minute tourbillon, limited run of 10 pieces|
|Benu Power Reserve, ref. MG-000628||50,500 USD||Platinum||Bar-shaped power reserve indicator|
|Benu Power Reserve, ref. MG-000460||39,500 USD||Rose gold||Bar-shaped power reserve indicator|
|Atum, ref. MG-000464||34,000 USD||White gold||Minimalist design|
|Atum Date, ref. MG-000857||42,000 USD||White gold||Pointer date|
|Tefnut Twist Classic, ref. MG-000951||35,500 USD||Rose gold||Wound using the lug|
|Tefnut Lady, ref. MG-000349||35,500 USD||Rose gold||80 diamonds on the bezel|
|Atum Pure High Art, ref. MG-000822||24,000 USD||Stainless steel||Limited run of 15 watches|
|Atum Pure, ref. MG-000496||14,000 USD||Stainless steel||Limited run of 150 watches|
Prices for the Moritz Grossmann Benu
One of Moritz Grossman's flagship collections is the Benu series. It contains many highlights, such as the Benu Tourbillon, which is available in rose or white gold. Only 25 copies of the rose gold model exist, as is reflected in its list price of 175,000 euros (approx. 200,000 USD). The white gold edition with a black dial is limited to a run of 10 watches and has the same list price. Limited to 50 pieces, the white gold watch with a silver-colored dial is the least expensive. It has a list price of 168,000 euros (approx. 191,000 USD).
The simple three-hand models without a tourbillon are available in platinum in addition to rose and white gold. The platinum model is limited to a run of 25 watches and is therefore extremely difficult to find. The white and rose gold models are only slightly less rare, limited in number to 50 and 100, respectively.
The Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve is much easier to find. You can choose from a platinum, rose gold, or white gold case. A bar-shaped power reserve indicator below the brand's logo at 12 o'clock makes these watches easy to spot. The list price for the rose gold model comes in at 34,900 euros (approx. 39,500 USD). However, you can get a well-maintained pre-owned example for about 27,500 USD. The white gold edition with a gray or silver dial costs about the same. You can purchase a new platinum watch with a blue or gray dial and silver small seconds subdial for 50,500 USD.
How much do the Benu 37 and Benu Enamel cost?
If the 41-mm diameter of the Benu Power Reserve is too large for you, you should take a closer look at the Benu 37. With a list price of 27,400 euros (approx. 31,000 USD), these white or rose gold watches cost a few thousand dollars less than their larger sister models with a power reserve display. It also makes a fantastic unisex watch thanks to its modest case size. It's nearly impossible to find pre-owned Benu 37 watches since the manufacturer first began making this model in 2018.
Since then, a few stainless steel watches have been added to this collection. Moritz Grossmann only produces 18 Benu Enamel watches with an enamel dial per year. Be sure to have around 31,000 USD on hand if you want to call one of these stainless steel timepieces your own.
How much does the Moritz Grossmann Atum cost?
The Atum collection offers something for every taste: from minimalist three-hand models and watches with date displays to intricately skeletonized timepieces. The collection's highlight is the one-off Atum "Schaffo," developed in collaboration with Swiss watchmaker and designer Christophe Schaffo. Moritz Grossmann released this magnificently refined, skeletonized watch in celebration of their tenth anniversary.
Atum watches in series production are much easier to come by. The three-hand watch with a small seconds dial and narrow hour indices is the most simple model and available in white or rose gold. The rose gold edition has a silver-colored dial and costs about 34,000 USD new. Models in white gold demand the same price. Those with a champagne, icy blue, or burgundy-colored dial are particularly eye-catching.
Fans of smaller watches will enjoy the Moritz Grossmann Atum 37. Unlike the larger, 41-mm models, these watches use Roman numerals to mark the hours. In terms of case material, you can choose between rose or white gold. Both versions cost about 31,000 USD new.
As its name suggests, the Atum Enamel features an enamel dial. It also marks the hours using Roman numerals. The Atum Enamel resembles a classic marine chronometer thanks to its blue alligator leather strap and blue "XII" marker. A railroad minute scale only further underscores this look. This 41-mm watch comes in rose or white gold and costs around 41,500 USD.
The Atum is also available with a date display. However, instead of a date window, Moritz Grossmann has outfitted the Atum Date with a pointer date around the edge of the dial. This helps maintain the harmony of the dial's simple design. Set aside about 42,000 USD for a new Atum date in white or rose gold.
Prices for the Atum Pure
Moritz Grossmann uses the word "pure" to refer to their stainless steel watches. This reflects the brand's philosophy of focusing on what's essential, and the Atum Pure is the embodiment of minimalism. The satin-brushed white, blue, or gray dials look metallic and lend these watches a sporty touch. The movement is kept simple and underscores the linear aesthetic of these timepieces. Each of the three versions is limited to a run of 150 watches, making them particularly rare. Prices for a new Atum Pure come in at around 14,000 USD. The models with semi-transparent dials offer a view of the movement from the front and cost a few hundred dollars more.
The Moritz Grossmann Atum Pure High Art is this series' highlight. Unlike its sister models, this timepiece comes with an intricately finished dial with various polishes and engravings. For example, you'll find Glashütte stripes on the distinctive two-third plate and three-band snailing on the ratchet wheel. Even the balance cock has been finely engraved by hand. Furthermore, Moritz Grossmann houses the jewel bearings – white sapphires – in gold chatons. Every edition of the Atum Pure High Art is limited to 15 watches, each with a list price of 21,200 euros (approx. 24,000 USD).
How much does the Tefnut cost?
You'll find both men's and women's watches in the Moritz Grossmann Tefnut collection. The women's watches belong to the Tefnut Lady series and have mother-of-pearl dials with a diamond in a gold chaton at 6 o'clock. Some models even feature bezels adorned with 80 diamonds. The official list price of these timepieces sits at 31,000 euros (approx. 35,500 USD). Those without diamonds are markedly more affordable at around 29,000 USD.
The Tefnut Twist stands out from the rest of the collection thanks to its unconventional winding mechanism. Instead of winding via a crown, this timepiece is wound using the lug at 6 o'clock. You only have to turn the strap a few times to fully wind your Tefnut Twist. The prominent strap bars are this timepiece's main feature. Both the Classic and Gent editions sell at a list price of 31,200 USD (approx. 35,500 USD), while the Fancy model demands an investment of 34,300 euros (approx. 39,000 USD). The higher price for the Fancy version comes from its diamond-studded bezel and mother-of-pearl dial.
The men's Tefnut watch is 39 mm in diameter and is available in white or rose gold. There are two Arabic hour markers at 6 and 12 o'clock, while the rest of the hours are marked with indices. The dial is silver-colored on the rose gold model and anthracite on the white gold version. You can purchase both editions for about 28,500 USD new.
The Origins of Success: The Moritz Grossmann Benu
The Benu model, presented in 2010, was the first watch produced by Moritz Grossmann. Its name comes from the German name for the Egyptian god Bennu. In Egyptian mythology, Bennu is represented as a divine bird. He appears as a gray heron – a migratory bird – and is a symbol for new beginnings. Fittingly, the watch was also a symbol of the company's beginning.
With its classic design and technological finesse, it connects Grossmann's legacy with the present. The case is made of platinum, stainless steel, or white or rose gold . The dial is white and has a small seconds at 6 o'clock. Arabic numerals serve as hour markers and thin, hand-finished hands are annealed in a brown or brown-violet hue.
The Benu Power Reserve stays true to the series' look. A highlight of this men's watch is its rectangular power reserve display located under the brand inscription at 12 o'clock. The two-tone display shows you when the watch needs to be wound. The timepiece is available in platinum or white or rose gold. You have the option of a light or gray dial, and the hands are made of polished stainless steel.
The collection's top model is the Benu Tourbillon. Master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon mechanism in 1795. It compensates for any gravity-related deviations by having its swing and escapement systems stored in a cage that rotates on its own axis. Usually, such cages make one full rotation every minute; however, the Benu's tourbillon requires three minutes to make a full rotation. The construction of its cage is based on a design by Alfred Helwig, a Glashütte-based watchmaker. In 1920, Helwig invented what is known as the flying tourbillon, an improvement on Breguet's tourbillon. Flying tourbillons don't have a top bridge and are only anchored at the bottom. The Benu Tourbillon's patented balance stop allows the wearer to set the watch to the exact second. Lastly, sapphire glass offers a clear view of the rotating cage through the dial.
Timeless Elegance: The Moritz Grossmann Atum Collection
Atum is the ancient Egyptian god of creation who created himself out of nothing and symbolizes the source of all things. This watch is the epitome of traditional craftsmanship and has a simple, elegant, and timeless design. Line indices are used instead of Roman or Arabic numerals, and similar to the Benu, the Atum has a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock.
You have the choice between a stainless steel or rose or white gold case, while the dial is available in white, gray, blue, or black. Moritz Grossmann produces their own hands. These are made of stainless steel and are either polished or annealed in a brown or brown-violet hue. For the strap, you can choose from brown or black alligator leather.
The Atum is also available in a version with a two-tone power reserve display. Similar to the Benu, the long, bar-shaped power reserve is located under the Moritz Grossmann logo. This version's case is made of either white or rose gold with silver dials. Their stainless steel hands are either polished or annealed in brown.
The date is one of the most highly sought-after functions. Moritz Grossmann meets this demand on the Atum Date using a pointer date display. You can recognize this model by the date scale running around the edge of the dial and the extra crown at 10 o'clock.
Moritz Grossmann Tefnut: Classic Men's and Women's Watches
Tefnut is the ancient Egyptian goddess of rain and the daughter of Atum. Accordingly, models from the Moritz Grossmann Tefnut line resemble those from the Atum line. The series features thin stainless steel or rose or white gold cases with anthracite or silver dials. Moritz Grossmann designed delicate polished or brown hands especially for this series and makes them by hand. The hour markers are cambered. Unlike the Atum, the Tefnut has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6.
The Tefnut Lady, a women's watch, is available in white or rose gold. Unlike the men's models, it uses Arabic numerals for the hour markers. The numerals get smaller as you move from 12 o'clock down the dial on both sides. Thus, the 12 is larger than the 3 and the 9, for example, and the 5 and 7 are smaller still. A diamond set in a gold chaton sits at 6 o'clock. The middle of the mother-of-pearl dial has a starburst guilloché pattern. The bezel is set with 80 brilliant diamonds, lending the watch an elegant look.
In-House Caliber 100.0: Manual Winding
When Moritz Grossmann presented their first wristwatch, the Benu, in 2010, they simultaneously presented their first in-house caliber. The manual caliber 100.0 serves as a base for movements with power reserves. The 100.0 is finely hand engraved and features a two-third plate construction held apart from the main plate by small pillars. This design makes the watch much easier to service. The manual winding components are also completely removable. The main and two-third plates are made of German silver, a material also used by A. Lange & Söhne. The two-third plate has a semi-circular opening, which is typical of Moritz Grossmann. This leaves you with a clear view of the balance wheel. Karl Moritz Großmann himself used this construction for his plates and other pieces, and the semicircle is a part of the company's logo today.
It's also hard to miss the caliber's hand-engraved balance cock. The movement is adjusted via a Grossmann micrometer screw. When the watchmaker turns the screw, they can precisely change the length of the balance spring, thereby influencing the beat of the watch. Moritz Grossmann adjusts the caliber 100.0 in five positions.
The movement consists of 188 total components, 17 of them jewel bearings. Three of the sapphires are set in screwed gold chatons. The balance wheel has a frequency of 18,000 alternations per hour (A/h), and the balance spring features a Breguet overcoil shaped after a Gerstenberger design. Gustav Gerstenberger was a German watchmaker who was specialized in making precision index adjusters and further developed the Breguet overcoil. The movement's power reserve lasts 42 hours, and thanks to the balance stop, you can set the watch to the exact second.
To set themselves apart from other manufacturers such as Nomos, another up-and-comer from Glashütte, Moritz Grossmann uses clear sapphires as jewel bearings instead of rubies. They also color their screws differently. Most watch manufacturers in Glashütte use tempered blue screws, but Moritz Grossmann heats their screws to a different temperature. This gives them a brown-violet hue instead of a blue one.
Similar to A. Lange & Söhne, Moritz Grossman builds each one of their movements twice. After the movements are built for the first time, watchmakers test all functions and perfect the movement. Then, they take it apart. Afterward, they rebuild it once more and refine the parts, a process known as finishing. This includes adding the sunburst design to the barrel.
The History of Moritz Grossmann
Christine Hutter, a trained watchmaker, founded the company Grossmann Uhren GmbH in 2008 with its headquarters in Glashütte, Germany. This small town has been the center of German haute horlogerie since 1845. World-renowned manufacturers such as A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original also have their headquarters there.
The company was named after the German watchmaker Carl Moritz Großmann. Großmann came to Glashütte in 1854 to produce pocket watches, pendulum clocks, and chronometers. He was one of the most important representatives of his craft and thus, timepieces created by Großmann are highly sought-after collector's pieces. He promoted the founding of the Watchmaking School in Glashütte in 1878. Important records of how to construct and regulate watch movements remain part of his legacy today.
In 2010, just two years after being founded, Moritz Grossmann presented their first wristwatch. The three-hand watch Benu had a limited run of 100 and was made of rose gold. The company now offers a wider catalog, ranging from elegant women's watches to intricate tourbillon watches. The company names their collections after the German names for Egyptian gods: Benu (Bennu), Atum, and Tefnut, for example. Unlike many other manufacturers, Moritz Grossman produces more than 85% of each of their calibers themselves. At least 50% of a watch's caliber must be manufactured in Glashütte for the inscription "Glashütte" to appear on its dial.