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Vacheron Constantin 1940S 5CT 18K WHITE GOLD "LUDO" RUFFLE FORM SHAPED ROUND & BAGUETTE DIAMOND BRACELET WATCH

$9,000
Free insured shipping to United States of America
Pre-owned (Very good) Year of production 1940 No original box No original papers
Wire transfer
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Shipping and Seller Information

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Expected delivery: May 18, 2022 - May 26, 2022
4.84 (35)
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Details

Basic Info

Listing code DEWYL1
Brand Vacheron Constantin
Movement Manual winding
Case material White gold
Bracelet material White gold
Year of production 1940 (Approximation)
Condition Very good (Worn with little to no signs of wear)
Scope of delivery
No original box, no original papers
Gender Men's watch/Unisex
Location United States of America, New York, New York, New York

Caliber

Movement Manual winding
Movement/Caliber MECHANICAL

Case

Case material White gold
Case diameter 28 x 8 mm
Bezel material White gold
Crystal Sapphire crystal
Dial White
Dial numerals No numerals

Bracelet/strap

Bracelet material White gold
Bracelet color White
Bracelet length 170 mm
Lug width 28 mm
Clasp Jewelry clasp
Clasp material White Gold
Buckle width 8 mm

Other

Gemstones and/or diamonds, Limited Edition, Only Original Parts

Description

A RARE & IMPRESSIVE 1940S/1950s VACHERON CONSTANTIN GENEVE, SPECIAL ORDER PIECE UNIQUE, POST WORLD WAR II FORM SHAPED “LUDO” THREE DIMENSIONAL “RUFFLE” RIBBON DESIGN SHAPE CONCEPT 18KT WHITE GOLD, BRILLIANT ROUND CUT & BAGUETTE CUT DIAMOND SET BRACELET WATCH WITH FANCY EVENING COCKTAIL DIAL



CASE DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS
- Fits up 170mm wrist size * Can be resized as necessary as a complimentary service with purchase
- Case Dimensions: 28mm Height X 8mm Width
- Fully Signed & Serial numbered with sharp hallmarks throughout
- 40 Diamonds set as 24 Brilliant Round Cut Diamonds and 16 Baguette Cut Diamonds totaling approximately 5.25 carats
- Fully Signed with sharp hallmarks throughout
- Recently cleaned & serviced in perfect Working Condition


ADDITIONAL SPECIAL FEAUTURES:
- VERY RARE ICONIC 1940S THREE DIMENSIONAL FORM SHAPED LUDO OR “RUFFLE, LACE ,RIBBON, BOW” SHAPED CASE DESIGN CONCEPT
- FANCY COCKTAIL 18KT WHITE GOLD BATON HAND CUT GOLD MARKERS ON ENAMEL IVORY SILVER DIAL
- HOUSES ONE OF VACHERON CONSTANTINS MOST ACCURATE AND SMALLEST MOVEMENT OF THE TIMEFRAME
- PRODUCED ENTIRELY BY THE FIRM AND SIGNED BY HEADQUARTERS WITH FRENCH HALLMARK FROM VACHERON CONSTANTIN GENEVE (INDICATED ON THE CASE BACK)
- DOUBLE DIAMOND CUTS WITH BAGUETTE AND ROUND CUT DIAMONDS ALL WELL MATCHED AND IN ORIGINAL CONDITION WITH NO MISSING OR REPLACED STONES THROUGHOUT


Relative Auction Results
(“Ludo” Design Concepts of the Ruffle Form Style Bracelet & Watch designs from the Same Period & Vacheron Constantin Geneve Pieces)
Christies 2006, November- A Centennial Tribute Part II, Geneva – Lot 1052: Sold for CHF 50,400
Christies 2020, November- Magnificent Jewels, Geneva - Lot 257: Sold for CHF 206,250
Christies 2000, November-Chic & Glamour Sale, Geneva - Lot 132: Sold for CHF 207,750
Christies 1990, December-New York - Lot 509: Sold for USD 74,000
Christies 2006, June- London Jewelry & Faberge, H.R.H Princess Margaret Countess of Snowden Lot 29: GBP26,400


THE DESIGN CONCEPT EXPLAINED: The iconic “LUDO” OR RUFFLE DESIGNED WITH THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM-SHAPED BRACELET CONCEPT

The design concept known as the “Ludo” Bracelet is one of the most iconic and recognizable legendary designs of all time. The Form Shaped design concept is one of the periods most sought after case designs amongst the most sophisticated collectors as a result of its limited production and uniqueness as it represents an enduring style symbolic of modernity & French elegance.

The revolutionary design concept of the Ludo design originated with that of the Van Cleef & Arpels family and earned its nickname from Louis Arpels, Louis – the youngest of the Arpels brothers who was known to his friends as “Ludo”. It became an immediate success as it was so unique and over time was produced in a variety of versions and various three-dimensional form shaped designs until 1950.

Drawing from the heart of the design, was the newfound element of women’s empowerment where in this period it was considered bold for a woman to wear a belt and similarly the Ludo design concepts draw from this attribute as Ludo bracelets concepts sought to blend the world of couture fashion and inject that element into the world of jewelry and timepiece case design.

As a means to do so Ludo concepts emulated the three dimensional effect which was a never before demonstrated innovation to create abstract shaped designs using special attention to gold workmanship and gem-setting to produce a carefully flowing three dimensional shapes with a heightened center effect of a supple ribbon, ruffle, or lace element to reinterpret the allure of bows, patterns of fabrics or the delicacy of lace similar to the three dimensional attribute of a belt with the center being raised and diamond set in a jewelry version with a three dimensional curved element to the case design that took form to function by allowing its user extra comfortability as a result.

In 1933, Louis Arpels married Hélène Ostrowska, a model for the House of Worth who was a well-known French model which was considered a symbol for her French elegance as she was featured on the International Best-Dressed Hall of Fame List for many years setting many of the most iconic trends in the fashion world.

Combined with her insight and Louis Arpels, the concept became the most high fashion and desirable in the jewelry and timepiece world as she would pose for photographs wearing a a Ludo style bracelet over her long sleeves or famously setting the trend for wearing bracelets over long black gloves to emphasize the modernity of the design concept’s lines.

The inspiration for choosing such a design was because this time the three-dimensional element of a belt became a popular fashion accessory known among periods most bold women of the 1930s.



As the aesthetics of the 1920s Art Deco revolution began, the newfound style exerted a strong effect on the leading jewelry and timepiece Maison’s to produce designs as bold as the women who helped their countries win the world wars in the 1930s to 1950s.

Much like the manner a belt accentuates a graceful bold silhouette, the Ludo design concept is designed to outlines the curve of a wrist and is created in the image of abstract shapes and the patterns of Art Deco period but designed specifically to have lines which pay tribute to the classics of the world of haute couture fashion where similarly in those years the design of a belt was a new popular fashion accessory associated with bold women of the period.

Creations mimicking the ruffles in lace or ribbon were found in only the highest of high fashion design firms such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Vacheron Constantin collections from an early date and continued to be popular throughout the decades as it required additional planning and effort to produce this effect.

The goal of the concept was so that the at the center of the bracelet, the master gold workmanship would simulate the effect of a silky ribbon or lace, piercing and polishing the gold before setting stones it to create a very delicate but noticeable bold motif, while still providing enough curving to the case material to create the impression of a ruffle at the proper elements and extenuating the modernity of the lines.

As with many period designs, the know-how to just doesn’t exist anymore and the workmanship would take so long that it would be too costly to replicate the extra special attention to detail to gem-set and goldwork to the case design making examples such as this all that more unique, especially when designed in watch form as it also required the design to house a movement which would be small enough to fit into such a bracelet design concept.



CATALOG NOTE

During the timeframe, Vacheron Constantin was at the height of it design and especially known for producing some of the most beautiful and iconic women’s bracelet watches in their existence. Throughout the 1930 to 1950s, Vacheron Constantin was so highly sought after for their Post World War II engineering, that Vacheron Constantin was the preferred timepiece firm over Patek Philippe to be selected and collaborate with Van Cleef Arpels also considered the leading design jewelry Maison’s of their period and together collaborated when the world’s important clients would place special orders from Van Cleef for timepieces because Van Cleef did not have the technological skill to produce a watch movement in house small enough to fit into the extremely unique design concepts.

As Van Cleef and Vacheron Constantin worked closely collaborating in this timeframe, the present example designed as a “Ludo ruffle ribbon motif bracelet form watch in 18kt white gold was designed to emulate an abstract three-dimensional form shape” concept of brilliant round cut diamonds set into a three dimensionally designed ruffled ribbon motif bracelet design concept.

At this time, platinum was extremely scarce due to the world wars’ use of the platinum by the military and the use of gold became more commonly used. As demonstrated by the present example, it is carefully sculpted with master skill levels of gem setting and gold workmanship to produce a beautifully curved ruffled ribbon effect on the wrist and utilizing the firm’s unique ability to engineer movements smaller than most other firms of this period it is designed with a mechanical movement narrow enough to fit into an 8mm case which was required as a means to produce the present design concept.
During this timeframe it was considered rude to check the time in the company of others and users would place orders for design concepts which appeared more so like that of a diamond bracelet than that of a watch, as a result as demonstrated with the present example the need to produce a movement small enough to fit into bracelet and case design concepts such as the present example were required and new technology had to also be innovated. The present timepiece is a quintessential example of one of the most iconic concepts in jewelry and timepiece design with its three dimensionally form shaped ruffle ribbon diamond set concept and raised center as well as an example of the periods best watchmaking given how difficult it was to produce such a small movement at this timeframe.

Additionally, the timepiece is fully signed and in excellent original condition with a fancy ivory silver dial and hand cut white gold baton gold pyramid markers and approximately 5 carats of brilliant white round cut diamonds and baguette cut diamonds to further accentuate the lines of the case design producing depths at different points as the light reacts with the users hands movements. In addition, the timepiece is accompanied by Vacheron Constantin box.
Although there are only a very few designs ever created in this concept, posted to the present listing is a graphic with other examples of “Ludo” bracelets which also have the key elements of the lines and three dimensional gem set form concept which the two firms were focused on to produce a ribbon, silky ribbon three dimensional bracelet and/or watch effect.

For additional questions, video or photos please do not hesitate to ask.

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Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
Professional dealer Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
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