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Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1908
Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908 in 2023. The watch is a classic dress watch with a decidedly elegant look, setting it apart from other Rolex collections. The timepiece features exquisite materials, exceptional craftsmanship, and a special in-house caliber.
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Simple Elegance From the House of Rolex
Rolex took advantage of Watches and Wonders 2023 and presented a completely new watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. The watches in the new line are dress watches with a classic, elegant design intended to replace models in the now discontinued Cellini collection.
The name of the collection refers to the year 1908, when Rolex officially registered the company name as a trademark. The design of the dial also draws on the rich history of the Geneva-based watchmaker. The dial was inspired by the first Oyster Perpetual, which debuted in 1931.
The 39-mm timepieces are available in yellow or white gold and, as of 2024, platinum and are among the few Rolex watches to feature a display case back. This allows the caliber 7140, which was developed specifically for the Perpetual 1908, to be seen from the outside. Like all Rolex movements, the 7140 is a certified “Superlative Chronometer.”
A premium alligator leather strap with a green lining and double folding clasp, called the Dualclasp, ensures a comfortable, secure fit.
Reasons to Buy a Rolex Perpetual 1908
- Classic, elegant design
- Moderate 39-mm diameter
- One of the thinnest Rolex watches in the current catalog
- Precise in-house caliber
- Available in platinum, or yellow or white gold
Price Overview: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1908
Perpetual 1908 reference | Price (approx.) | Material, dial |
52506 | 30,900 USD (MSRP) | Platinum, ice blue |
52508 | 30,700 USD | Yellow gold, black |
52508 | 30,400 USD | Yellow gold, white |
52509 | 30,100 USD | White gold, black |
52509 | 30,100 USD | White gold, white |
How much does a Perpetual 1908 cost?
In April 2024, prices for a Rolex Perpetual 1908 on Chrono24 averaged around 28,800 USD for white gold models and 29,200 USD for yellow gold models. The dial color plays a minor role in the price.
The platinum version of the Perpetual 1908 launched in April 2024. Rolex's official list price for the new model is 30,900 USD.
Flat and Elegant: The Rolex 1908 Up Close
The Perpetual 1908 is by far the most elegant watch collection in Rolex's current catalog. It is by far the most elegant collection in the current Rolex catalog. The 39-mm case, available in white or yellow gold or (since Watches and Wonder 2024) platinum, features classic, flowing lines polished to a high luster. It's also significantly thinner than comparable watches in the Oyster Perpetual line.
A “split” bezel, with its fluted outer half and cambered inner half, surrounds the domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial. The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back – rarely seen in the Rolex universe – enabling you to view the brand-new in-house caliber 7140 inside.
Caliber 7140: Designed for the Rolex 1908
The Rolex automatic caliber 7140 has an open-worked yellow gold rotor, and the bridges and plates have been given elaborate ornamental cuts. But the movement isn't just a feast for the eyes, it also has a lot to offer in terms of technology. Thanks to the Syloxi hairspring (a composite material made of silicon and silicon oxide), Chronergy escapement, and Paraflex anti-shock system, the caliber 7140 is accurate to -/+ 2 seconds per day and has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours. The movement provides the watch with a central hour and minute display and a small seconds. The latter is located at 6 o'clock.
Simple, but Refined: The Rolex 1908 Dial
A slender sword hand indicates the minutes, while a “pomme” or Breguet hand with an open-worked circular tip indicates the hours. The dial features narrow, faceted baton indices in yellow or white gold. Exceptions to this are the hours at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, which Rolex marks with applied Arabic numerals. A railroad minute scale at the outer edge of the dial completes the display. Models with gold cases come with a black or white dial.
Rolex fits platinum models with an ice-blue dial. This special color is reserved exclusively for platinum watches in the Day-Date, Daytona, and 1908 lines. A guilloché grain de riz pattern gives the 1908 dial a three-dimensional depth and a particular lustre. The small seconds dial contrasts beautifully with its radial sunburst pattern. The numerals, hands, and indices on this watch are made of polished white gold.
Leather Strap for a Secure Fit
The Perpetual 1908 is currently the only collection in the Rolex catalog to feature a leather strap. You can choose between a black or dark brown alligator strap. The stitching is the same color as the leather. For the inner lining, Rolex has selected a dark green.
The brand has equipped the straps with the new Dualclasp. Crafted in 18-karat white or yellow gold or platinum (to match the case), this double folding clasp has a slightly curved shape that not only ensures comfort, but also keeps the clasp in the center of the wrist at all times.
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 at a Glance
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Case: yellow gold, white gold, or platinum
- Crystal: sapphire crystal
- Case back: sapphire crystal
- Strap: Alligator leather, with Dualclasp
- Water resistance: 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft)
- Dial: black, white, or ice blue
- Automatic caliber 7140
Alternatives to the Perpetual 1908
If you're looking for a classic Rolex dress watch, the watches from the Cellini collection, which was discontinued in 2023, are a great alternative to the Perpetual 1908. They have a similar case design and also feature a split bezel. The Cellini models, however, have a more playful look than the 1908, thanks to the use of patterned dials, dauphine hands, and a more elaborate minute track.
The Cellini collection also offers a choice between simple three-hand models to versions with a pointer date, moon phase display, or GMT function.
Last-gen Rolex Cellini models change hands on Chrono24 for anywhere between 12,900 USD for simple three-hand variants in white gold and 30,300 USD for top models with a moon phase display and pointer date.