Patek Philippe Calatrava: Pure Understatement
The Calatrava is the flagship model of world-famous watch manufacturer Patek Philippe. It is also one of the most coveted dress watches on the market. Its classic design is elegant, timeless, and minimalist. It also makes a great investment.
Bauhaus-Inspired Elegance Since 1932
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is an icon in the watch industry. Few dress watches are as coveted and popular. It has been the perfect companion for formal occasions since its introduction in 1932. Many also choose the Calatrava as their everyday watch.
The understated design of the Calatrava was inspired by the Bauhaus, a German school of design from the early 20th century that continues to influence modern art movements. The watch's lines are clean and simple; its dial tidy and harmonious. While the Calatrava may represent the quintessential classic wristwatch today, it was way ahead of its time back in the 1930s. It also has a longer history than most other watches on the market. Paired with the prestige of the Patek Philippe brand, this makes the Calatrava a true industry icon and the dream of many watch lovers and collectors.
The current Calatrava collection contains a variety of men's and women's watches outfitted with in-house calibers. Patek Philippe crafts most of these timepieces out of platinum or yellow, rose, or white gold. Select women's models feature diamonds and tastefully decorated dials. Thanks to the collection's long history, fans of vintage watches also have plenty to choose from. These older timepieces are relatively affordable compared to their modern counterparts. Overall, the Calatrava tends to retain its value well – like nearly all Patek watches.
The white gold ref. 6119G-001 and rose gold ref. 6119R-001 are the collection's latest additions. Patek Philippe introduced these models at Watches and Wonders 2021 in Geneva. The most important update these dress watches received was the manual in-house caliber 30-255 PS with a 65-hour power reserve. Furthermore, their cases grew slightly to 39 mm in diameter.
Reasons to Buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava
- One of the world's most famous and prestigious watches
- Calatrava ref. 96: "Holy grail" for many collectors
- Timelessly elegant design since 1932
- Perfect finishes and reliable in-house calibers
- Fantastic value retention
Prices at a Glance: Patek Philippe Calatrava
|Reference number||Price (approx.)||Materials, diameter|
|6007A-001||84,500 USD||Stainless steel, 40 mm|
|5212A-001||50,000 USD||Stainless steel, 40 mm|
|5153R-001||43,500 USD||Rose gold, 38 mm|
|7234R-001||38,000 USD||Rose gold, 37.5 mm|
|6006G-001||30,000 USD||White gold, 39 mm|
|5196R-001||24,500 USD||Rose gold, 37 mm|
|5123R-001||22,000 USD||Rose gold, 38 mm|
|5119G-001||18,500 USD||White gold, 36 mm|
|3919||13,500 USD||Yellow gold, 33 mm|
|96||10,500 USD||Yellow gold, 31 mm|
How much does a Patek Philippe Calatrava cost?
Prices for the Calatrava depend on a few different factors, including the case material, movement, decoration, and availability. Vintage watches like the ref. 96 are the most affordable and sell for as little as 10,500 USD.
The Calatrava ref. 5196R-001 has a rose gold case and a small seconds at 6 o'clock. This model demands around 24,000 USD. The stainless steel ref. 6007A-001 is an exclusive limited edition. Patek produced 1,000 copies of this timepiece in 2019 to celebrate the opening of their new production facilities in Geneva. You can call this watch your own for roughly 84,500 USD.
Prices for the Calatrava 96 and 5196
Enthusiasts and collectors of vintage watches are especially interested in the original model with the reference number 96. It is characterized by its 31-mm case, indices, and dauphine hands. Considered small by today's standards, it is the ideal women's watch. Plan to spend around 10,500 USD on a pre-owned model. With any luck, you may even find this timepiece for under 7,000 USD. However, depending on demand and the watch's condition, prices up to 24,000 USD are not unheard of.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 is the successor to the ref. 96. The current model is 37 mm in diameter and, thus, much more contemporary. At 7.68 mm thick, this Calatrava is pleasantly flat. It is available in platinum or rose, white, or yellow gold. The platinum edition costs about 35,500 USD new. The gold versions are much more affordable at around 24,500 USD.
The design of the platinum Calatrava 5196 boasts some unique elements, including Arabic numerals in place of indices and leaf (or "feuille") hands instead of dauphine hands. As a whole, this timepiece has a more classic feel.
The Calatrava With a Weekly Calendar
In 2019, Patek Philippe added the stainless steel Calatrava ref. 5212A to its Complications collection. This watch features a weekly calendar that uses an additional central hand to indicate the week number and corresponding month, which run around the dial's edge. A fifth central hand points to the current day in the middle of the dial. Finally, blackened gold indices sit atop the silver opaline dial.
The automatic in-house caliber 26-330 S C J SE ticks away inside the case and provides this watch with its 45-hour power reserve. The moderately sized 40-mm case looks great on most wrists. Patek mounts the 5212A on a light brown leather strap with white stitching.
Due to high demand, this watch changes hands for around 50,000 USD on Chrono24. That's almost 50% more than its official list price of 33,454 USD. The future looks bright for this model.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 7234G to the Complications collection in 2019. This white gold pilot's watch is 37.5 mm in diameter, making it a great choice for women and those with narrower wrists. In addition to the standard hour, minute, and second hands, the automatic in-house caliber 324 S C FUS has an additional hand for displaying the time in a second time zone. This way, you can keep track of the local time and the time back home when you travel. Two screw-down pushers on the case's left-hand side allow you to set the time, while you can use the crown on the right side of the case to adjust the date forward or backward.
The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time has a dark blue dial with applied Arabic numerals. It comes on a matching blue alligator leather strap with white stitching. Patek also ships the watch with an alternative brown leather strap.
The Pilot Travel Time is also available in rose gold with a blue sunburst dial. In addition, Patek Philippe offers larger 42-mm versions (ref. 5524G) of this watch. While the 37.5-mm versions cost upwards of 36,000 USD, the larger models sell for about 49,500 USD. With list prices of 48,500 USD and 53,280 USD, respectively, these are some of the few Patek watches whose market values are less than the manufacturer's suggested retail prices.
Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001
Patek celebrated the 2019 opening of their new production facility near Geneva with a special-edition Calatrava. This model bears the reference number 6007A-001 and had a limited run of 1,000 pieces. Its round case is 40 mm in diameter and contains a gray-blue dial with luminous white Arabic numerals. The baton hour and minute hands resemble those on the Calatrava 6006.
The automatic caliber 324 S C powers this timepiece. This movement is only 3.3 mm thick, and you can view it through the sapphire crystal case back. The case back also features an engraving of the Calatrava cross and the inscription "New Manufacture 2019." Patek Philippe mounts this timepiece on a gray-blue calf leather strap with a textile pattern.
At its release, the 6007A-001 had a list price of 28,351 USD. As of spring 2021, its market value has risen to about 84,500 USD.
The Calatrava With a Guilloché Bezel
Calatravas with a guilloché "Clous de Paris" bezel, Roman numerals, and leaf hands are also coveted. If you're interested in these timepieces, keep an eye out for the refs. 3919 and 5119. Both models have more traditional designs than those of the Bauhaus-inspired refs. 96 and 5196. Patek Philippe produced the 33-mm ref. 3919 from 1985 to 2006. Its successor, the 36-mm ref. 5119, has a similar design and premiered in 2006. The Genevan manufacturer added the ref. 6119 to the series at Watches and Wonders 2021. At 39 mm in diameter, this version is 3 mm larger than its predecessor. The most exciting feature of this latest model is the manual in-house caliber 30-255 PS. While this movement has a 65-hour power reserve, the refs. 3919 and 5119 use the caliber 215 PS with a 44-hour power reserve.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919 comes in white, rose, or yellow gold. You can purchase a pre-owned yellow gold watch for about 10,500 USD. The more recent ref. 5119 is available with the same options, and the yellow gold edition demands around 14,000 USD new. You'll need an additional 4,800 USD to purchase the white gold version. Patek produced the 6119 from 2021 in white and rose gold. Both variants have a recommended retail price of 29,570 USD.
Prices for Models With Date Displays
A traditional Patek Philippe Calatrava usually lacks a date display. Over time, however, there have been a few models that display the date at 3 o'clock. These include the reference numbers 5227, 5296, and 5153. The refs. 6000 and 6006 are two exceptions, as they feature a pointer date with a scale around the dial's edge. Another unique feature of the 6000 and 6006 is a small seconds between 4 and 5 o'clock. This is made possible thanks to the in-house caliber 240 P SC with a 48-hour power reserve. No matter which model you choose, it will come on a leather strap.
The Calatrava ref. 6006's case is 39 mm in diameter and only 8.86 mm thick despite having an automatic movement. These timepieces sell for around 30,000 USD in mint condition. Its predecessor, the ref. 6000, is two millimeters smaller and costs roughly 23,500 USD new. Finally, the rose gold variant changes hands for about 27,500 USD.
The Calatrava ref. 5296 is available in two designs: one based on the original from 1932 (ref. 5296R-010) and the other with a sector dial resembling the Master Control Date from Jaeger-LeCoultre (ref. 5296G-001). The in-house caliber 324 SC with a 45-hour power reserve ticks away inside both versions.
Both references are 38 mm in diameter and come in white or rose gold. The white gold 5296G-010 demands about 31,500 USD in mint condition, while prices for a new rose gold 5296R-010 sit around 29,500 USD. On the other hand, you can purchase a rose gold 5296R-001 for roughly 26,000 USD. The white gold edition costs about 1,200 USD less.
The ref. 5227 also comes in your choice of yellow, rose, or white gold. The white gold version comes with a cream-colored or black dial. Both variants sell for between 28,500 and 35,500 USD. The yellow and rose gold models cost around 34,000 USD new.
Named After a Cross Fleury
The Calatrava collection has the cross fleury, Patek Philippe's company logo, to thank for its name. During the Middle Ages, this symbol was the emblem of the Order of Calatrava, which protected a castle of the same name in Castile, Spain. The Cross of Calatrava is also a part of the coat of arms of Jean-Adrien Philippe's home village, which likely influenced the company's choice to use it as a logo. In 1887, Patek Philippe officially registered the Cross of Calatrava as their company logo.