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Aquanaut: Patek Philippe's Sportiest Luxury Watch

The Aquanaut is the entry into the sports watch world of Genevan luxury watch manufacturer Patek Philippe. Its exceptional quality, in-house caliber, and kinship with the famous Nautilus appeals to watch lovers and collectors.

By Chrono24

The Perfect Alternative to the Nautilus

Patek Philippe first introduced the Aquanaut to the public in 1997. Its design is clearly inspired by Patek's most iconic sports watch, the Nautilus, a creation by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta some 20 years prior. Both designs are characterized by an octagonal, porthole-shaped bezel. However, the Aquanaut's bezel is much rounder than that of its elder counterpart. This is also true of its crown protector and lugs, which lend this watch its curvier, more modern appearance.

The Aquanaut has more in common with the Nautilus than aesthetics alone; it also shares some of its important technological features. Both are water-resistant to 120 m (12 bar, 394 ft). This is unusual for a watch from Patek Philippe, as most of their luxury watches are only water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft). Furthermore, the manufacturer equips both collections with the same high-precision in-house calibers.

The men's Aquanaut offers simple three-hand watches, models with second time zones, and chronographs. A new model with an annual calendar joined the line-up in 2023. In terms of materials, Patek Philippe primarily uses stainless steel, but individual references are also available in rose or white gold.

Women's watches in the Aquanaut line come in stainless steel or rose gold and occasionally feature intricate diamond decor. In terms of calibers, both automatic and quartz watches are available.

The Aquanaut usually comes on a rubber strap that is especially resistant to water, abrasion, and UV light. If you'd prefer something a bit less sporty, Patek Philippe also produces variants that come on a three-link stainless steel bracelet.

Reasons to Buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut

  • More affordable alternative to the Nautilus
  • Sporty design in the style of Gérald Genta
  • Precise in-house calibers
  • Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bar, 394 ft)
  • Travel Time features a practical dual-time mechanism

Prices at a Glance: Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Model, reference Price (approx.)* Features
Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research, 5650G 555,000 USD Second time zone, white gold, limited run of 500 watches, 40.8 mm
Aquanaut Chronograph, 5968A-001 140,000 USD Chronograph, date, stainless steel, 42.2 mm
Aquanaut, 5968G-001 134,000 USD Chronograph, date, blue dial, white gold, 42.2 mm
Aquanaut Chronograph, 5968G-010 134,000 USD Chronograph, date, green dial, white gold, 42.2 mm
Aquanaut, 5168G-010 91,800 USD Date, white gold, green dial, 42.2 mm
Aquanaut Travel Time, 5164A-001 89,600 USD Second time zone, pointer date, stainless steel, 40.8 mm
Aquanaut, 5167A-001 68,400 USD Date, stainless steel, black dial, 40.8 mm
*as of April 2024

How much does a Patek Philippe Aquanaut cost?

If you're looking for a men's model, the ref. 5167A-001 is the most affordable timepiece. This three-hand watch is made of stainless steel and cost around 67,300 USD in early 2024. The next step up is the ref. 5168G-010, which has a green dial and white gold case, and demands an investment of approximately 91,700 USD.

As for chronographs, the Aquanaut ref. 5968A-001 is a great option. This stainless steel watch changes hands for roughly 140,000 USD. Frequent flyers can turn to the Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A-001. This is another stainless steel watch, but has the added benefit of a second time zone. It also has a more manageable price of 89,500 USD.

For the Aquanaut Luce, women can choose between a stainless steel or rose gold version. In both cases, the bezel is set with diamonds. On average, depending on the model, you should expect to pay between 54,000 USD and 74,000 USD for an Aquanaut Luce. Particularly lavishly decorated models can break through the 100,000 USD barrier. The top-of-the-line Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" (Ref. 7968/300R-001) cost more than 466,000 USD in the spring of 2024.


Prices for Three-Hand Models

The standard version of the Aquanaut is the ref. 5167 with a diameter of 40.8 mm. Older editions are powered by the automatic caliber 324 S C, which offers a stop-seconds function. For some time now, however, the Aquanaut has shared a caliber with the Nautilus, namely the caliber 26-330 S C. In any case, both movements have a date display at 3 o'clock and oscillate at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The biggest difference between the two calibers is the power reserve. The 324 S C has a 40-hour power reserve, while the 26-330 S C lasts up to 45 hours.

Plan to spend around 67,000 USD for the stainless steel version on a rubber strap (as of April 2024). If you'd prefer a stainless steel bracelet, expect to pay around 550 USD more. The rose gold edition with a chocolate brown dial and rubber strap requires an investment of around 90,600 USD.

To celebrate the collection's 20th anniversary, Patek released the Aquanaut 5168G with a 42-mm white gold case, blue or olive dial, and matching rubber strap. This timepiece will set you back about 85,800 USD.

You can save quite a bit by buying an older, pre-owned model like the 38-mm stainless steel Aquanaut 5065A. This watch is powered by the in-house caliber 315 SC and changes hands for roughly 71,600 USD.

The Aquanaut Luce for Women

The Aquanaut Luce is the collection's women's model. With a diameter of 38.8 mm, this watch is notably smaller than the men's watch and boasts 48 diamonds on its bezel. The stainless steel version, the ref. 5267/200A, comes with a black, green, or white dial and matching strap, as well as a quartz caliber. Prices for this watch generally come in around 54,300 USD, regardless of dial color.

Patek equips the three-hand rose gold edition with an automatic movement. The reference 5268/200R is now also available with a brown dial and brown rubber strap and demands an investment of approximately 101,000 USD. The ref. 5269/200R is a Travel Time edition with an additional hour hand for the second time zone and a quartz movement. This model costs about 74,800 USD.

The highlight of the women's watch collection is without a doubt the Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" released in 2022. The bezel, dial, and clasp on this rose gold watch have been furnished with 204 precious gems, and the bezel – as the name implies – features a rainbow of colors. This gem of a timepiece is powered by the Patek Philippe chronograph caliber CH 28-5 20-C, which comes with a flyback function. Plan to shell out at least 466,000 USD for this watch.


Aquanauts With Complications

Patek Philippe is famous for creating movements with sophisticated complications, and the Aquanaut collection is no exception to the rule.

Aquanaut Travel Time With GMT Function

The Aquanaut Travel Time (ref. 5164) offers a second time zone by using an additional hour hand to indicate the time back home – a practical feature when traveling. Two push-pieces on the left side of the case are used to set the local time an hour forward or backward, as needed. The minute and seconds hands are not affected while setting the hour.

The words "Home" and "Local" sit next to two small windows just below 3 and 9 o'clock, respectively. These windows serve as day/night indicators. A subdial at 6 o'clock shows the date. Depending on when the reference was made, it uses either the caliber 324 S C FUS or the more modern 26-330 S C FUS.

As of April 2024, the stainless steel model (5164A-001) costs approximately 89,500 USD, while the rose gold edition (ref. 5164R-001) sells for around 119,000 USD.

Exclusive and Highly Precise: Travel Time Advanced Research

The Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research released in 2017 is especially exclusive, thanks to its limited production run of 500 pieces. Not only does the watch have a white gold case, it's also equipped with state-of-the-art technology. Thanks to the new Spiromax balance spring, this timepiece has a deviation of only +2/-1 seconds per day. What's more, a single stainless steel component has replaced the complicated push-piece mechanism previously needed to set the local time. A cutout in the dial allows the wearer to view this new component at work.

If you're lucky enough to find one of the 500 pieces, you can expect to invest around 554,000 USD.

The Aquanaut With a Stopwatch Function

Aquanaut chronographs with the reference number 5968 are the youngest members of the Aquanaut family. The 42-mm watch is powered by the powerhouse caliber CH 28-520 C and features a date display at 3 o'clock and 60-minute counter at 6.

The stainless steel chronograph (ref. 5968A) can be worn on a black or orange rubber strap, the latter of which is included with the original purchase. You'll need to set aside around 140,000 USD for this watch in mint condition.

Patek Philippe introduced two new variants of the chronograph in summer 2021. These models are made of white gold. While the manufacturer furnishes the ref. 5968G-001 with a blue dial, the dial on the 5968G-010 is green. Technically, the two watches are identical to the stainless steel model. The white gold watches were changing hands on Chrono24 for approximately 133,000 USD in April 2024.

Launched in March 2023, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968R-001 with a rose gold case and brown dial will set you back about 136,000 USD.

New in 2023: Aquanaut With Annual Calendar

The annual calendar found its way into the Aquanaut collection for the first time in March 2023. This complication, which only requires you to correct the date once a year on March 1st, was previously only used in the Complications and Nautilus series.

The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261 is powered by the brand-new caliber 26-330 S QA LU. This movement displays the date in a window at 6 o'clock, while the day of the week and month are indicated by hands on subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock. There is also a moon phase indicator at the top of the hour. The finely decorated automatic movement is on display through the sapphire crystal case back.

The watch has a rose gold case with a diameter of 39.9 mm, making it suitable for both men and women. Patek Philippe set the list price at 61,506 USD. However, waiting times will be long due to the low production numbers. As a result, you can expect hefty markups; as of April 2024, dealers were demanding 171,000 USD.


Aquanaut Novelties 2024

Patek Philippe presented two new Aquanaut models at Watches and Wonders 2024. The reference 5269R is a new version of the Aquanaut Travel Time. The 38.8 mm case houses the quartz caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H. Along with the additional hand for the second time zone, the movement also provides centralized hours, minutes, and seconds. The dial has a blue-gray opaline look with applied, rose gold hour markers. A rubber strap in the same color as the dial ensures a secure fit on the wrist. As of April 2024, this reference was not available on the Chrono24 marketplace. The official list price is 35,350 USD.

Patek presented a new Aquanaut ref. 5268/461G, richly decorated with precious gems. The dial is set with more than 200 blue and white baguette or brilliant-cut diamonds, with the blue ones serving as hour-markers. There are 40 sapphires on the bezel and eight white diamonds on the lugs. The case of the 5268/461G is made of white gold and measures 38.8 mm in diameter. Inside the watch is an automatic manufacture caliber 26-330 S, which provides the watch with a central display of hours, minutes, and seconds, and a power reserve of 45 hours. Patek Philippe's official list price for this exceptional Aquanaut is 235,670 USD.