Omega Seamaster Diver 300M: A Modern Diving Watch
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is defined by its helium escape valve and water resistance to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft). Numerous models also feature a chronograph or GMT function, while limited editions are highly coveted among collectors.
A Professional Diving Watch With a Helium Escape Valve
In 1993, Frenchman Roland Specker set a new freediving world record of 80 m (262 ft) with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M on his wrist. It came shortly after Omega had launched this watch alongside a chronograph edition. Both models were the first Omegas ever to feature a helium escape valve and, thus, qualify for saturation diving. Just like its famous sister, the Seamaster 300, the Diver 300M is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft).
Another way to tell the Diver 300M and Seamaster 300 apart is the former's date display. Its design is also much more modern. The bezel's wavy edge, in particular, gives this timepiece a special appearance. Omega offers this watch in sizes ranging from 28 to 42 mm. Most models are made of stainless steel, though titanium, gold, and two-tone versions are also available. There are also select limited editions in platinum or extremely rare tantalum. Tantalum is a rare, corrosion-resistant metal and has a bluish-gray hue.
In the beginning, this professional diving watch was available with a quartz or automatic movement. However, Omega only uses mechanical calibers for more recent models. These movements are not only chronometer-certified but also have been outfitted with Omega's Co-Axial escapement since 2006. Most calibers are also certified Master Chronometers, meaning they can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.
All these features caught the attention of none other than James Bond, who first donned a quartz-powered Seamaster Professional 300M in 1995's "GoldenEye." A quarter of a century later, 007 was still wearing a 300M in the film "No Time to Die" – this time with a Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement and titanium case.
Reasons to Buy a Seamaster Diver 300M
- Suitable for saturation diving thanks to its helium escape valve
- Water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft)
- Chronometer caliber with a shock-resistant Co-Axial escapement
- Co-Axial Master Chronometers with magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss
- Limited-edition Bond models with the potential to appreciate in value
Prices at a Glance: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
|Seamaster Diver 300M reference number||Price (approx.)||Diameter, material(s), caliber|
|126.96.36.199.01.001||82,600 USD||42 mm, platinum, 8807|
|188.8.131.52.01.001||23,800 USD||44 mm, Sedna gold, 9901|
|184.108.40.206.03.001||18,500 USD||42 mm, Sedna gold, 8801|
|220.127.116.11.01.001||11,200 USD||44 mm, stainless steel and Sedna gold, 9900|
|18.104.22.168.01.001||10,000 USD||42 mm, titanium, 8806|
|22.214.171.124.01.004||8,400 USD||42 mm, titanium, 8800|
|126.96.36.199.01.001||6,400 USD||44 mm, stainless steel, 9900|
|188.8.131.52.04.001||5,600 USD||41 mm, stainless steel, 2507|
|184.108.40.206.01.005||5,300 USD||41 mm, stainless steel, 2507|
|220.127.116.11.01.001||4,600 USD||42 mm, stainless steel, 8800|
|2534.50.00||2,800 USD||41 mm, stainless steel, 1128|
|2551.80.00||2,300 USD||36.25 mm, stainless steel, 1120|
How much does a Seamaster Diver 300M cost?
Prices for an Omega Seamaster Diver 300M range from 1,700 USD for a pre-owned quartz watch to over 82,600 USD for the James Bond Numbered Edition in platinum. The latter is extremely rare and has an official list price of 61,700 USD. If you're a fan of James Bond but would like to invest less money in your watch, you should take a closer look at the ref. 18.104.22.168.01.004 from 2019. This timepiece was limited to a run of 7,007 pieces and demands about 8,400 USD in mint condition. You can purchase a pre-owned model for around 8,100 USD. That's only a couple hundred dollars more than its list price of 7,700 USD.
Standard edition models in stainless steel are even more affordable. Take the ref. 22.214.171.124.01.001, for example. You can purchase this watch on a stainless steel bracelet for about 4,600 USD new and 4,100 USD pre-owned on Chrono24. This represents a savings of roughly 1,200 USD compared to prices at retail locations. The same is true of the two-tone ref. 126.96.36.199.03.002 in stainless steel and Sedna gold. This model features a blue dial, rubber strap, and ceramic bezel. Be prepared to spend about 6,000 USD for a mint-condition timepiece. Used watches cost around 5,200 USD. Both prices are significantly less than the recommended retail price of 8,300 USD.
If you're on the market for a watch in solid Sedna gold, you may enjoy the ref. 188.8.131.52.03.001. Like its two-tone sister model, this timepiece has a blue dial, a blue ceramic bezel, and a blue rubber strap. While its official list price sits at 27,300 USD, you can find this watch on Chrono24 for approximately 18,500 USD.
Omega equips their three-hand diving watches with in-house calibers from the 8000 series. Most of these movements come with Master Chronometer certification from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Thanks to their silicon balance springs and other silicon components, these movements can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. Each has a power reserve of 55 hours, and a majority come with a date display at 6 o'clock.
Older models from the 1990s with the caliber 1120 sell for around 2,400 USD in used condition.
Prices for the Diver 300M With a Chronograph Function
Omega offers a wide range of Seamaster 300M models with a stopwatch function. On the one hand, you can choose between a 41.5-mm or 44-mm case. On the other, there is also the option to purchase a model with a GMT function. This function uses an additional central hand and a 24-hour scale around the dial's edge to indicate the time in a second time zone. You can purchase the Co-Axial GMT Chronograph ref. 184.108.40.206.01.001 for roughly 5,600 USD new and 4,400 USD used. A similar model with no additional time zone, such as the ref. 220.127.116.11.01.001 demands an investment of about 4,100 USD. Both versions feature a date display at 6 o'clock along with a 30-minute counter at 3, a 12-hour counter at 6, and a small seconds at 9 o'clock.
Chronographs from the most recent generation have only two subdials due to their use of the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 9900. There's a minute counter at 3 and an hour counter at 9 o'clock. The movement also provides each watch with a 60-hour power reserve. The stainless steel edition on a rubber strap changes hands for about 6,400 USD on Chrono24. Pre-owned pieces demand a few hundred dollars less. Omega lists this watch for 8,500 USD.
The version in 18-karat Sedna gold costs around 23,800 USD in mint condition and 21,000 USD pre-owned on Chrono24. Two-tone editions like the ref. 18.104.22.168.01.001, which combines stainless steel and Sedna gold, sell for roughly 11,200 USD. That's some 4,200 USD less than the manufacturer's suggested retail price.
Well-maintained Seamaster Diver 300M chronographs from the 1990s and 2000s often demand under 2,500 USD. These timepieces feature the Omega caliber 1164, which is based on the time-tested and robust Valjoux 7750.
Buying the Seamaster Diver 300M GMT
If you're looking for a GMT watch without a chronograph function, you should consider the ref. 2534.50.00. Omega produced this model from the late 1990s to the end of the 2000s. After almost a decade in production, there are now many pre-owned pieces on the market. Defining features include luminous sword hands and indices, as well as a black and silver bidirectional bezel with a 24-hour scale. The dial features a wave pattern that underscores this timepiece's purpose as a diving watch. The stainless steel case measures 41.5 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft).
Thanks to the automatic Omega caliber 1128, you can set the hour hand independently of the minute, second, and 24-hour hands. This is especially practical when traveling across time zones. Omega developed this movement based on the ETA 2892-A2. The 1128 has a 44-hour power reserve and is a certified chronometer. You can purchase a pre-owned ref. 2534.50.00 for about 2,800 USD.
The Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 2535.80.00 is among the collection's more recent GMT watches. It uses Omega's Co-Axial caliber 2628 – a modified version of Omega's first movement with a Co-Axial escapement, the caliber 2500. Invented by George Daniels, this revolutionary escapement system produces less friction than conventional anchor escapements and, thus, requires less maintenance. This model looks more like a diving watch than a GMT watch due to its helium escape valve at 10 o'clock and 60-minute bezel. The 24-hour scale appears on the dial next to the hour indices. Be sure to have around 4,000 USD on hand for a mint-condition ref. 2535.80.00. Used watches change hands for roughly 3,300 USD.
James Bond and the Seamaster Diver 300M
The Diver 300M made its debut on the silver screen in 1995 as James Bond's timepiece in the movie "GoldenEye." Since then, Omega has produced several limited and standard-edition James Bond watches.
The most recent example is the No Time to Die from 2020. This 42-mm titanium watch combines retro design elements, such as domed sapphire crystal and artificially aged luminous material, with the state-of-the-art Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8806. Omega worked with actor Daniel Craig, who portrays the secret agent in the film, to design this Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. It features a brown dial and brown aluminum bezel insert. There's also a "Broad Arrow" on the dial and case back. The British government uses this symbol to mark government-owned property. It also underscores the military flair of this Bond watch.
Omega offers the No Time to Die on a fine Milanese bracelet or a NATO strap. The latter edition bears the reference number 22.214.171.124.01.001 and costs about 9,000 USD. You can find the version on a titanium Milanese bracelet under the reference number 126.96.36.199.01.001. This model demands an additional 1,200 USD.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Commander’s Watch
The Commander's Watch is also a Diver 300M dedicated to Her Majesty's secret agent. Its name is a reference to Bond's military rank in the Royal Navy. The Commander's Watch has a 41-mm stainless steel case, a blue bezel with the first 15 minutes in red, and a white ceramic dial. Another nice detail is the second hand's counterweight, which is shaped like the "007" logo. What's more, the rotor resembles the casing of a 9-mm bullet and also features the secret agent's logo. All this is visible thanks to a sapphire crystal case back. Omega pairs this timepiece with a NATO strap in blue, red, and gray – the colors of the Royal Navy. Only 7,007 copies exist of the ref. 188.8.131.52.04.001, and its prices range from 4,600 to 5,600 USD.
Omega also offers a version of the Commander's Watch in 18-karat yellow gold, which comes with an 18-karat gold bracelet in addition to the NATO strap. Only seven copies of this gold timepiece were ever made, making them genuine collector's items. You'll need a solid 31,600 USD to purchase this exclusive watch.
Seamaster 300M Casino Royale and James Bond 50th Anniversary
Other Omega James Bond watches include the Seamaster Diver 300M Casino Royale and the Diver 300M James Bond 50th Anniversary Edition. The latter has the reference number 184.108.40.206.01.005. You can recognize this 41-mm stainless steel watch by the red "50" on its black ceramic bezel and the many "007" logos on the dial. This timepiece was limited to a run of 11,007 pieces and sells for about 5,300 USD in mint condition. Pre-owned pieces cost some 240 USD less.
The Seamaster Diver 300M from the movie "Casino Royale" (ref. 220.127.116.11.01.001) looks like a conventional diving watch. It features a black dial with luminous indices, a black rotatable bezel, and a glow-in-the-dark zero marker. You can only tell it's a Bond watch by the "007" counterweight on the second hand and the engraved case back. Omega only produced 10,007 copies of this model. You can purchase a pre-owned example on Chrono24 for roughly 4,850 USD.