With water resistance to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft) and nine functions, the Chronomaster offered great value for money in the early 1960s. Nivada marketed the aesthetically-striking chronograph as a multifunctional watch fit for any occasion. The affixes "Aviator" and "Sea Diver" can be taken at face value: The Chronomaster performs just as well underwater and in the air as it does on land. In addition to telling the time, this Nivada watch also features a stopwatch function, timer, yacht timer, GMT function, tachymeter scale and diving bezel. Nivada advertised its flagship model with two slogans: "Super Chronograph" and "The world's busiest watch – has more uses than ever counted."
The original Chronomaster was in production for roughly 15 years, which explains why there are so many variants with different dial designs and movements out there. That being said, it is pretty easy to spot a Chronomaster, and visual distinctions are mostly seen in more minor details like the shape of the hands or indices. Every model has two subdials, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock.
The first generation had mostly black dials. These were later followed by white and silver versions, which Nivada also offered as panda and reverse panda dials. All Chronomaster models have a black aluminum bezel with a diving scale on the outer edge. Closer to the dial, you'll find an hour scale for indicating the GMT time.
Another aspect these models have in common is their 38-mm stainless steel case, which featured drilled lugs up until the fifth generation. The sixth and final generation is the only model without lug holes. Case thickness varies for each model depending on the caliber used, i.e., the Venus 210, Valjoux 92, Valjoux 7733, Valjoux 23, or Landeron 248.
Prices for Vintage Chronomasters
The Chronomaster model with reference number 8221 is the oldest and arguably best-known generation. This model has several distinctive details, namely the arrow-shaped hour hand, black dial, and black subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock. Similar to most of the Chronomaster references that followed, there is a block of red between the zero and five on the minute counter at 3 o'clock.
The line indices are luminous and coated in tritium. The original Chronomaster is powered by the Venus 210, a manual Swiss caliber with a cam-actuated chronograph which was widely used at the time.
You will typically find pre-owned pieces on aftermarket bands without any additional accessories listed on Chrono24. Interest from collectors has caused the price for this reference to rise significantly in recent years, meaning you can expect to pay at least 2,700 USD. If the model is in excellent condition or comes with other original accessories such as a matching stainless steel bracelet, the asking price can quickly rise to between 4,300 and 5,400 USD.
The reference numbers in the subsequent generation start with 105; these watches are equipped with the Valjoux 92 caliber. Prices here are similar, regardless of whether Nivada or Croton appears on the dial. The model with the reference 85004/4076 has also proven very popular among collectors. On account of its orange second hand and orange yacht timer, this watch is aptly nicknamed the Orange Boy. The model has gray subdials paired with a black dial. The obelisk-shaped hour, minute, and subdial hands enhance the overall look of the Orange Boy. The watch is powered by the Valjoux 23 caliber and pre-owned pieces in good condition cost between 3,200 and 4,300 USD.
Prices & Details: Nivada Chronomaster Remake
Unveiled in 2020, the remake of the Chronomaster borrows heavily from its iconic antetypes from the 1960s and 70s, both in terms of size and appearance. You have the choice between manual or automatic stainless steel watches. Nivada Grenchen uses movements from the Swiss ébauche manufacturer Sellita, meaning you'll find the Sellita SW510 M BH B at the heart of the manual models and the SW510 BH B in the automatic versions. Both movements have a power reserve of around 60 hours. The company equips limited editions with new old stock Valjoux 23 calibers from earlier production.
Nivada makes no compromises when it comes to case size. The case measures 38.3 mm – which appears slightly bigger when worn – making the watch an ideal choice for those with slender to mid-sized wrists. Just like the original version, the remake is also water-resistant to 100 meters (10 bar, 328 ft). One difference is that the vintage pieces feature plexiglass, whereas Nivada opts for more contemporary domed sapphire crystal on the newer watches. You can tailor the Chronomaster to your personal style with a leather or rubber strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
Manual-winding and featuring broad arrow hands, the refs. 86014M and 86007M are faithful copies of the original Chronomaster ref. 8221. Like many of the new Chronomaster models, you can choose between white or cream Super-LumiNova. Cream gives the watch a vintage flair.
Fans of light-colored panda dials will swoon over the ref. 86010M. The mechanical version of this timepiece on a stainless steel bracelet has a list price of around 1,900 USD, while the automatic chronograph comes in slightly more expensive at around 2,000 USD.
You can find the Orange Boy under the reference number 86012M for around 1,800 USD on a leather strap.
If you're looking for the best of both worlds, take a closer look at the "Paul Newman" Panda Chronomaster, the Paul Newman Reverse Panda, and the Big Eye with the Valjoux 23 caliber. The first two models are reminiscent of the ref. 85017 and, similar to the Rolex Paul Newman, feature a black or white dial with distinctive elegant Art Deco numerals on the subdials.
The Big Eye is a modern take on the ref. 85006. Its most distinctive feature is the extra-large regatta timer at 3 o'clock in gray, blue, and orange. The orange lollipop second hand rounds off the Big Eye's overall design. The list price for all three Valjoux 23 models is around 5,200 USD.