Legendary chronographs that first hit the market in the 1960s are still enjoying heightened popularity today. In our first article about 1960s chronographs, I looked at four famed and fabled chronographs that have made a lasting mark on the watchmaking industry. As promised, the fun continues with the next three chronographs from the 1960s.
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch: There Can Only Be One
There’s probably not a watch fan among us who doesn’t know the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Omega originally released the Speedmaster in 1957 as a stopwatch for timing car races, but the watch’s commercial success came in 1969 when Buzz Aldrin took mankind’s first steps on the Moon wearing a Speedmaster ref. 105.012.
The Moon landing marked the dawn of the Moonwatch’s glory days, and millions of copies have been sold since. The timepiece gained legendary status, and Omega has spared no effort in underscoring how similar all later pieces are to the original 105.012. The follow-up versions lean heavily on the design of their muse, which is seen most noticeably in the 42-mm stainless steel case, curved lugs, Hesalite crystal, and manual caliber. There really isn’t anything stopping watch fans from experiencing the glory of this historical piece themselves.
Although the original 105.012 uses the caliber 321, succeeding models were upgraded to the 861, 1861, or 1863. These are all manual movements based on the Lemania 2310 and have been tweaked over the years, such as the increase in 1968 from 18,000 to 21,600 vph. The Moonwatch only underwent a significant change in 2021, when Omega released the reference 310.30.42.50.01.001 to replace the 311.30.42.30.01.005. Visually, this variant honors the 105.012 in minor details on its bezel (dot over 90) and step dial, but it boasts state-of-the-art caliber technology with the Co-Axial caliber 3861.
Omega has launched countless Speedmaster watches with the additional Moonwatch designation over the past decades, but purists will only humor those that carry the original’s main characteristics. The last “real” Moonwatch in this sense is the ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005, which was given the caliber 1861. While this reference was discontinued in 2021, you won’t have trouble finding it like-new on the secondary market for around $6,700.
This amount should also get you the “big box”, which includes accessories like extra straps and a magnifying glass. The new Moonwatch with Co-Axial technology can be had for around the same price. At this stage, you’re only going to find the 105.012 in pre-owned condition. Prices depend on the watch’s condition, accessories, and its smaller details, and can land anywhere between $7,500 and $22,000.
Heuer Monaco: A Legend on the Race Track
Almost no other manufacturer can match Heuer’s knack for sporty chronographs. Mastermind and managing director Jack Heuer knuckled down in the early 1960s and designed the Autavia chronographs I covered in the first installment in this series. The Autavia is still a great among racing chronographs. Another successful model was the Monaco, which is now a permanent fixture in TAG Heuer’s portfolio and sells very well. The Monaco’s distinctive design and hair-raising history has secured it a place in the 1960s chronograph hall of fame.
When Heuer unveiled the Monaco in 1969, angular watches were old news. What was entirely new, however, was the chronograph’s completely square case. The first Monaco is powered by the caliber 11 (or Chronomatic, as it’s known). This movement was one of the first automatic chronograph calibers and was developed by Heuer in collaboration with Breitling, Büren, and Dubois Dépraz.
The caliber 11 is an automatic movement based on the chronograph module built by Dubois Dépraz. The crown migrated to the left-hand side of the case for technical reasons, which gives the Monaco and other models with this caliber an unmistakable design. The look is completed by the dark blue dial with white subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, the date display at 6, and the splashes of color on the dial and hands.
The first Heuer Monaco models came under the reference numbers 1133 and 1133B. The subtle difference between the two is found on the dial: While the dial of the 1133 still had the additional designation “Chronomatic” above the Heuer lettering, this was replaced by “Monaco” on the 1133B. The reason was that Heuer sold the Chronomatic name to Breitling at the end of the 60s – only a few months after production of the Monaco started.
The 1133B rose to fame following its appearance in Le Mans in 1970. The timepiece was worn by none other than King of Cool Steve McQueen in his leading role as racing driver Michael Delaney.
Collectors are very keen on the Monaco 1133B. Original vintage pieces are still fairly easy to find and stable in terms of investment. As of mid-2023, pieces in good condition are selling for around the $16,000 mark.
The current re-edition of the Monaco 1133B sports a pretty bulky reference number (CAW211P.FC6356), but otherwise, its material, dimensions, and design are very close to the original version. Cutting-edge production processes, better materials like a sapphire crystal cover glass, as well as the recently-developed caliber 11 make this watch far more suitable for everyday use than its famous prototype. This is evident in the watch’s water resistance to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) and oscillating frequency of 28,800 vph, making the modern watch much more robust and more precise than the vintage version. At “only” around $7,000, the watch is also easier on the wallet.
Nivada Chronomaster: The Underdog
It has to be said, the Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver is one of the underdogs in the class of 1960s chronographs. There is a certain level of awareness about this watch among watch fans, and the Nivada brand, which was revived a few years ago, also has a good standing. Yet, for reasons unknown, the Chronomaster has not been able to match the great success of the other chronographs mentioned here.
The bicompax, multifunction chronograph debuted in the early 1960s and offered excellent workmanship for its time. The timepiece was equipped with calibers that were also used by the biggest names in the industry. Even back then, the watch was at the top of its game, boasting a depth rating of 200 m (656 ft). Nivada produced the Chronomaster in numerous colors and designs into the 1970s.
As for calibers, the watch housed practically all the movements the Swiss watch industry had to offer at the time. Early vintage variants with the Valjoux 92 and Valjoux 23 are particularly popular, but later, less expensive movements like the Valjoux 7733 and the Landeron 248 were also available. Today, Nivada uses both automatic and manual calibers from Swiss movement manufacturer Sellita.
The watch’s somewhat unwieldy name is not without reason: It represents the model’s versatility. “Aviator Sea Diver” might seem like a paradox, but the watch is suited for a life at great depths and high altitudes. This variety of functions has been the Chronomaster’s unique selling point in the past, and Nivada advertised the watch as “The world’s busiest watch – has more uses than ever counted.”
Function Overview
- Chronograph
- Timer
- Yachting timer
- GMT function
- Tachymetric scale
- Diving bezel
The first Chronomaster issued in the early 1960s (ref. 8221) can be recognized by its broad arrow hour hand, black dial, and black subdials. The relatively monochrome design is broken up with a red accent on the timer on the subdial at 3 o’clock. Prices for this reference have climbed noticeably in recent years; you can expect models with the Valjoux 92 in good condition to run between $3,300 and $5,500. The new edition, on the other hand, costs only about $2,300 on a steel bracelet.
That wraps up our second installment on famous chronographs from the 1960s. Which model would you choose?
Read next: What is a chronograph and how does it work?
