While the heart of any watch is its movement, the first thing people usually look at is something else – namely, the watch case. A watch case protects the movement ticking away inside and, of course, gives a watch its shape. Together with the dial, hands, bezel, and bracelet or strap, it gives a watch its overall look and feel. Learn about the history of watch case design and manufacturing, as well as the different materials and shapes of this essential watch component. Without them, our wristwatches would not be what they are today.
What a Watch Case Does
Modern wristwatches generally have a case that consists of a case back, a main body with lugs for attaching the wrist strap or bracelet, and a bezel. A crystal over the dial and a crown attached to the outer edge of the case complete the assembly. In addition to aesthetics, the main function of the case is to protect the watch and its complex internal technology from damage caused by shocks, dust, and moisture. This means that the case guarantees the proper functioning and longevity of a timepiece, bearing in mind, of course, that every watch will eventually require regular maintenance.
The Watch Case: History and Development
Around the time of the Renaissance, clocks began to appear in homes. Their cases had both functional and aesthetic forms. The development of technical components, such as the mainspring to store energy or the balance wheel to improve accuracy, made clocks smaller and more portable. The first portable clocks were created at the beginning of the 16th century, and can be traced back to Peter Henlein from Nuremberg, Germany. These usually had a cylindrical can shape. The oval, egg-shaped clocks known as “Nuremberg Eggs” are also often associated with Henlein. Mostly used as standing clocks, they could also be worn on a chain around the neck or carried in a pouch when traveling. These were the forerunners of pocket watches and made it possible to tell the time on the move. Ornately decorated individual pieces, they showed that, back then, the design of these watch cases took precedence over the precision of the movement inside. It wasn’t until the mid-17th century that clock movements became more complex and accurate.
Watch Cases In the Modern Era
While industrialization led to an increase in the production of pocket watches, the principle of their cases remained fundamentally the same: the movement was attached to the hoop or ring, i.e., the main part of the case. The case back and an optional case cover protected the watch from external damage or debris.
When the wristwatch became popular at the beginning of the 20th century, the design of the case was adapted accordingly. Lugs for a bracelet or strap were now attached to the case body. Watches became an important everyday object and were needed for an increasing number of daily activities. In order to ensure the precision and functionality of the watches, it was essential that the watch cases were able to withstand all the wear and tear they would experience. Particularly important were the seals between the various parts of the case, which were designed to keep out dust and moisture. In high-end watches, this is done with an O-ring that fits into a groove in the case. Rolex in particular made a name for itself with its pioneering work in the development of the first water-resistant wristwatch. The “Oyster” name described the sealed construction of the case, which houses and protects the movement as securely as an oyster holds its pearl.
The way in which the movement is attached to the case also has a decisive influence on the overall build of a watch. A “full housing” is considered the highest quality, where the case and movement are individually matched. Here, the movement is mounted on top of a ring in the middle of the case and attached to the case back.
How is a watch case made?
To effectively protect a watch case while giving it an aesthetically pleasing appearance, watch case materials undergo several steps. The basic shape of the case is stamped out of the raw material. Depending on the complexity of the housing, this process may need to be repeated 10 to 15 times. The other components are then turned, milled, and stamped in preparation for assembly. This process involves repeatedly heating component blanks to high temperatures. This helps eliminate stress points in the material that could later cause cracks or fractures. Once these blanks are finished, the polishers go to work. This process begins with coarse sanding and polishing, then progressively brushing and matting the material until the desired finish is achieved. The wide variety of watch case materials requires unique polishing processes for each material. For example, stainless steel is very difficult to work with, while gold is softer and easier to shape.
Watch Case Materials
Just as the technology of watches has been constantly refined over the years, new materials have been developed or combined in order to exploit their respective advantages. The most popular materials for watch cases include the following:
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is a very strong material with a particularly high degree of purity. This metal is re-melted over and over again to achieve its specific properties. It is relatively difficult and labor intensive to process. Unlike watches made of precious metals, a stainless steel watch is less susceptible to scratches, and special coatings make it resistant to rust and corrosion.
Titanium Cases
Titanium watches have been in production for only a relatively short time. Although titanium mining is complex and expensive, titanium’s reactivity with oxygen allows it to be processed into the very stable material titanium oxide. Softer than stainless steel in its pure form, various alloys make titanium a robust watch material.
Ceramic Cases
Made from titanium carbide or zirconium oxide powder and fired at extremely high temperatures, this material is highly scratch resistant and never loses its elegant luster. It is also very lightweight and especially suitable for people with sensitive skin who may be allergic to some metals. Launched in 1962, the Rado DiaStar 1 was the first watch with a ceramic case. The ability to achieve different colors during production became a kind of trademark of the watch manufacturer.
Cases Made of Precious Metals
Precious metals such as gold, silver, and platinum are easy to work with and have been used to make jewelry for thousands of years. They give watches a particularly elegant look. Their stable value makes precious metal watches a very good investment.
Case Shapes
The purchase of a luxury watch is always a statement of the wearer’s personal taste. Thanks to a wide variety of different shapes, you can be sure to find the model that best suits your style when you purchase your watch. The most common case shapes are listed below.
Round Watch Case
The most common shape for wristwatches is probably the round case. The perfection of the circle has fascinated mankind since antiquity, and it is fitting that it is a bridge to today’s timekeeping. This balance is further accentuated when watch models have more subtle lugs and bracelet widths that contrast noticeably with the dimensions of the case. Have a look at the Portofino Chronograph from IWC and see for yourself.
Encased Watch Case
Some watch manufacturers design the shape of their models to be more flowing, with the lugs protruding from the case and merging seamlessly into the bracelet. This creates a compact, holistic design. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a great example of this.
Tonneau-Shaped Watch Case
This very elegant and somewhat extravagant case shape is mainly found on dress watches. “Tonneau” (French for “barrel”) is derived from the slightly curved shape of the case sides and is reminiscent of a wine barrel. The Longines Evidenza is one of the most popular watches with a tonneau-shaped case. Richard Mille also uses this unusual shape as a hallmark of his modern watch designs.
Rectangular and Square Cases
Just like round timepieces, watches with square cases score points for their pleasing symmetry. Watch models with rectangular or square cases became particularly popular in the 1920s. Among the most famous watches with a square case are the Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and the TAG Heuer Monaco, which was first introduced in 1969 and worn by Hollywood icon Steve McQueen.
