06/15/2016
 3 minutes

Watch Pairs: Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe Calatrava

By Robert-Jan Broer
Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe Calatrava
Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe Calatrava

For ages (relatively speaking), it was okay to just have one all-purpose watch; a watch that could be worn for work and formal occasions, but also in your free time. If your watch was a dress watch – which it was in most cases – you just took it off when it was time to work in the garden, repair your car, or even to wash your hands. Some brands, like Rolex, made great all-around watches well-suited to their 1970s slogan: “I want a good watch.” But these watches, with their steel bracelets, were still too sporty for many peoples’ tastes.

When people buy a watch today, it’s expected to fit their style and wardrobe – and that’s for both women’s and men’s watches. It’s not uncommon to have a formal watch for the office and a separate diving watch for the weekends when you’re out playing with the kids or having a BBQ with friends – or when you’re diving, of course.

In this series of articles, we’ll take a look at watch pairs. We’ve selected an elegant dress watch and a sports watch for each pairing: Two watches that complement each other and offer their wearer an appropriate watch for any occasion.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona and Patek Philippe Calatrava

Let’s start with two iconic watches that most of you will know and recognize: the Rolex Daytona and the Patek Philippe Calatrava. These two are opposites and therefore, a perfect fit for those who need a dress watch and a sports watch. Your lifestyle will determine which gets the most wear.

Admittedly, neither of these watches comes cheap, and the combination of both is definitely for a fortunate minority out there, but each has great (and more affordable) alternatives available. We’ll cover those in future articles.

Rolex Daytona

Rolex Daytona
Rolex Daytona,Image: © Bert Buijsrogge

The sporty stainless steel Rolex Daytona just underwent an update this year. It’s received a ceramic bezel and a new dial. The Daytona has been around for decades; since 1963 to be precise. Its current version is almost identical to the reference that was introduced in 1988, the first Daytona with a self-winding movement and 40 mm case. Daytona models before that period were smaller and had hand-wound movements. Even untrained watch enthusiasts will recognize similarities between today’s stainless steel Rolex Daytona and those very first models from the 1960s.

What makes this watch great for daily wear is the fact that it is a water resistant watch (Oyster case, screw-down pushers, screw-down crown) combined with a chronograph. The chronograph movement is the column-wheel in-house manufactured caliber 4130, introduced by Rolex in 2000. Since then, small innovations and upgrades have been done to the movement, ensuring it is one of the most reliable chronograph movements on the market today.

The classic Oyster case is simply timeless and will continue to look good decades from now, and the 40 mm diameter will suit any man (or woman) out there.

For many Rolex buyers, resell value is of importance as well. These watches do not seem to depreciate, but instead increase in value over time. The plexi crystal version with hand-wound movement appreciated especially well – better than any savings account could give you.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe Calatrava, Image: Auctionata

The Patek Philippe Calatrava can fill the small gap that the Rolex Daytona leaves behind: It is a watch for those moments where a sporty watch is uncalled for. The Calatrava has roots that go back as far as 1932, but it is still very alive today and one of the most popular models from Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe just recently increased the diameter of their classic Calatrava to a – for Patek and their customers – whopping 39 mm with the reference 5227. This watch has the automatic winding movement caliber 324 S C inside of it and features a useful date function. Always elegant in precious metal, the Calatrava is best combined with a beautiful alligator leather strap.

If the 39 mm size and self-winding movement are too modern for you, or if you just prefer something more vintage for your formal occasions, Patek Philippe also has the Calatrava reference 5196 in their collection. This is a much appraised hand-wound Calatrava that will take you back to the 1950s. The 37 mm dress watch is available in yellow, white, and red gold, as well as in platinum. The white or yellow gold versions are perfectly classic pieces with beautifully applied stick markers. The hand-wound caliber 215PS does not feature a date (luckily), but it does have a wonderful small seconds hand at 6 o’clock.

View offers on Chrono24 here:

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Rolex Daytona


About the Author

Robert-Jan Broer

Robert-Jan, founder of Fratello Magazine, has been writing about watches since 2004. However, his passion for watches dates back much further. In fact, he sold his …

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