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Vacheron Constantin: Like a Phoenix Rising From the Ashes

By Pascal Gehrlein
April 7, 2025
8 minutes
Vacheron-Constantin-2-1

Vacheron Constantin: Like a Phoenix Rising From the Ashes

As one of the oldest continuously operating watch manufacturers in the world, Vacheron Constantin has stood for the highest level of watchmaking artistry and stylistic sophistication since 1755. It is not without reason that the brand is still one of the illustrious “Holy Trinity” of haute horlogerie alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. In recent years, Vacheron Constantin has impressed us with innovation and sensitivity for collectors’ hearts; for example, with their “Les Cabinotiers” collection, which offers unique handmade timepieces, or the reissue of the 222, a style-defining model from the 1970s. The combination of tradition and modern watchmaking makes Vacheron Constantin a beacon in the luxury segment. A watch from VC is a symbol of timeless excellence and living history on the wrist.

Vacheron Constantin: Brand History

One of the brand's flagship models is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
One of the brand’s flagship models is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

Vacheron Constantin was founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in Geneva, a city that established itself as a center of fine watchmaking as early as the 18th century and remains home to brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Franck Muller, and Chopard. In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron began manufacturing movements and cases, laying the foundations for a long tradition of watchmaking. In 1770, he designed the first watch equipped with a signed movement. This watch was a milestone for the brand and the entire industry; it is still considered the first watch ever with a complication. However, this was not the brand’s only pioneering achievement. In 1819, François Constantin joined the company and the name was changed to Vacheron & Constantin. The addition led to a significant expansion of the brand, particularly in Europe and the USA. In the 1870s, Vacheron Constantin launched the first world time watches that enabled wearers to read different time zones simultaneously – another innovative step in the watch industry. Then, in 1955, Vacheron Constantin presented a new technical masterpiece with the Caliber 1003. At just 1.64 mm, this movement was the thinnest mechanical movement in the world at the time and brought the brand international recognition as a pioneer in the field of ultra-thin movements. In the 1990s, Vacheron Constantin became part of the Richemont Group, which helped the brand to further establish itself internationally, while developing a modern identity that combined tradition and innovation. However, it also meant that the brand joined a portfolio of other brands. Some industry experts see this as one reason why the brand’s popularity and unique selling points have suffered over the years in comparison to Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. Today, Vacheron Constantin is (once again) known for its exquisite craftsmanship and the development of highly complicated watches, including models with tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters. With collections like the Overseas  or the recently very popular and sporty 222 line, Vacheron Constantin is making itself known as one of the leading luxury brands in the world of haute horlogerie and in the minds of watch fans.

Notable Models & Collections

1. Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Vacheron Constantin Overseas

The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the luxury stainless steel sports watch trend of the 1970s. In the last 5 years in particular, the Overseas has caught up with the competition. In part due to the oversaturation and omnipresence of the Nautilus and Royal Oak, the Overseas is now an appealing alternative for many fans. Smaller vintage models are particularly popular, as they’re also available at a more affordable price point. With its striking design, integrated strap, and high functionality, the Overseas is one of the brand’s most sought-after watches today. Whether in stainless steel or precious metal, on a steel bracelet or rubber strap, the Overseas combines the elegance of the brand with a sporty feel and is available with various complications such as a chronograph or world time.

2. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 6675 18k Sub Second

Minimalist, classic, and highly sophisticated: The Patrimony collection stands for pure elegance and the highest art of watchmaking. Inspired by the classic designs of the 1950s, it embodies the essence of Vacheron Constantin with perfectly balanced proportions and the finest finishing. Yellow or white gold are the most common materials used here. Models with a hand-wound movement or the ultra-flat version with an automatic movement are particularly popular. The watches are available in different versions, from the classic three-hand to models with complicated functions like a perpetual calendar or tourbillon. Anyone who buys a Patrimony is someone who values understatement but still enjoys the finer things in life – quiet luxury at its finest.

3. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Gold or Stainless Steel

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in stainless steel
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

The 222 is a symbol of Vacheron Constantin’s long history and innovative strength and, to a certain extent, competes with their own Overseas line.  After a long period of silence surrounding this model, Vacheron Constantin presented a new edition of the Historiques 222 in 2022 to celebrate the 45th anniversary of the original. This new edition remains true to the original design philosophy, but with some modern adaptations and technical improvements. The new models are equipped with an automatic caliber 2455/2 and a power reserve of 40 hours. Since January 2025, the popular model has also been available in a “Jumbo,” 37-mm stainless steel version. The new edition caused quite a stir among collectors. The gold version exudes pure retro charm, while the new steel variant with a modern touch is a highlight for fans of sporty elegance.

4. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

As the name suggests, this model series was developed specifically for the American market in the 1920s and stands out with its cushion-shaped case and the diagonally inclined 45-degree dial arrangement. The watch was specially developed for drivers. The design allowed drivers to conveniently read the time without taking their hand off the wheel. The crown is also unconventionally located on the upper left side of the case. The American 1921 was relaunched in 2009 and is now one of the most distinctive watches in the Vacheron Constantin portfolio. In terms of design, the Historiques American builds a bridge between the classic case of the Patrimony and the sporty, distinctive cases of the Overseas and 222. Its unique aesthetics make it particularly sought-after among collectors. For many, it is still an insider tip and a sleeping giant when it comes to collectibles. This is because many collectors have a soft spot for bizarre and eccentric designs that are not available in large quantities on the market – in a similar vein to the Cartier Crash or Tortue.

5. Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix

A lot of watch for the money: the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatic
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatic

Presented for the first time in 2018, the Fiftysix is a modern reinterpretation of the reference 6073 introduced in 1956, which was a milestone for Vacheron Constantin as it was the manufacturer’s first watch with an automatic movement. The 6073 was representative of the brand’s transition to a modern yet classic design that combines elegance and craftsmanship. Today’s Fiftysix was specially developed for a wider target group, and especially for younger watch enthusiasts who want access to the Vacheron Constantin brand. Accordingly, the price of this model is set at a more affordable level compared to the other Vacheron Constantin collections. But that’s not the only thing that should appeal to a new audience – the focus here is also on suitability for everyday use. The case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, making the watch suitable almost any occasion. The dial is available in various colors such as silver, blue, brown, rose gold, and stainless steel. Inside the automatic version (without a perpetual calendar) is the 1326 movement, which is not a fully-fledged Vacheron Constantin manufacture caliber, but uses a Cartier 1904 base from the Richemont Group. This, of course, is reflected in the price. Nevertheless, each of the movements, whether in a three-hand watch or full calendar/moon phase, is beautifully decorated and can be viewed through the display case back – an insight to the Vacheron Constantin brand world.

Design & Technical Expertise

Vacheron Constantin stands not only for outstanding craftsmanship, but also for technical masterpieces and pioneering work. The manufacturer has mastered every watchmaking complication – from tourbillons and minute repeaters to perpetual calendars and the grand complications. It was not until 2024 that Vacheron Constantin surpassed its own 2015 world record for the most complex mechanical movement in the world   with the Berkley Grand Complication, a watch with a total of 63 functions. These include a Gregorian and Chinese perpetual calendar, a tourbillon, grande and petite sonnerie, as well as an alarm function. Intrigued? Very well. We have more: Vacheron Constantin has been offering watches with blue dials in various models for many years. The manufacturer uses a different, unique shade of blue for each collection. The blue used for the Overseas differs from that of the Overseas Tourbillon, which in turn differs from that of the new Historique 222 and the petrol blue of the Fiftysix. Galvanization and PVD coating are the keywords here.

Who wears Vacheron Constantin?

Vacheron Constantin is a brand for connoisseurs and fans of quiet luxury. While other luxury watch manufacturers have a greater media presence, especially in sports and pop culture, and promote this through brand ambassadors, Vacheron Constantin remains more of a discreet choice for true connoisseurs of haute horlogerie. The brand’s famous wearers include personalities such as former French President Charles de Gaulle, music legend Eric Clapton, and actor Brad Pitt. Anyone who wears a Vacheron Constantin generally opts for understatement and top quality rather than flashy prestige and hype. With a Vacheron on your wrist, you can define yourself as reserved and set yourself apart. Vacheron is increasingly tapping into a new target group with vintage Overseas models, which are attracting more and more attention from collectors on social media and are seen as a more affordable alternative to the Royal Oak and Nautilus. The trend towards smaller watches has also accelerated interest.

Vacheron Constantin: Final Thoughts

So is Vacheron Constantin like a phoenix rising from the ashes or a fading star in the watchmaking firmament? In my opinion, Vacheron has found its niche since the launch of the Historiques 222, which has given it some positive momentum. This is a brand whose vintage models increasingly offer real collector potential and whose diversity is still underexplored. I definitely haven’t seen enough of the Patrimony or Overseas models. It’s a different story with flagships from other brands! Many watch enthusiasts appreciate the company’s cautious approach to experimentation with extravagant designs or collaborations. Some time ago, Vacheron’s image was widely regarded as outdated and its models too conservative. But Vacheron Constantin has shown it has the courage to develop and now has a portfolio that has absolutely nothing to hide. With smaller sizes, the return to models from the past, and the use of modern materials like rubber straps, Vacheron has not done anything significantly different from the competition, but has nevertheless brought the right models and colors onto the market at the right time. All this, without going too crazy, being too loud, or forgetting the core of the brand. As a result, Vacheron is increasingly a place to go for collectors who are tired of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. It will be exciting to see to what extent Vacheron becomes a benchmark.

About the Author

Pascal Gehrlein

Pascal Gehrlein

Hi, I'm Pascal. After spending many hours searching for my first luxury watch on Chrono24, I ended up visiting their "Legal details" page and saw their headquarters …

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