At Watches and Wonders 2023, Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Rolex presented a battery of new timepieces. It’s an anniversary year for both the Submariner (1953) and the Daytona (1963), and, contrary to all expectations, Rolex introduced two new GMT-Master II models to the mix: the yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR and the two-tone Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR.
Yellow gold, really? That’s right: the OG type of gold is back, and its return to the world of Rolex GMT watches is probably one of the biggest surprises of recent years. For years, the GMT-Master II has been differentiated from the Submariner by using Rolex’s proprietary rose gold alloy, Everose gold, for all the solid gold and two-tone variants of its pilot’s watch, reserving yellow gold for the Sub. With the two new GMT references, frequent flyers and long-haul globetrotters are once again spoiled for choice between two different gold GMT timepieces.
Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126713GRNR)
Let’s take a closer look at the two-tone variant first, and see how it measures up to the Rolex GMT-Master II Rolesor Everose (ref. 126711CHNR), aka the Root Beer. Do these two watches even belong in the same collection? And which one would get the upper hand in a head-to-head GMT-Master II comparison?
Features Shared by Both Models
The Case
As with all two-tone Rolex watches, the case is made of various materials. The monoblock is made of Oystersteel, while the bezel frame and crown are solid gold. The center dot of the Triplock symbol beneath the Rolex crown is slightly larger than the other two, which is the mark of 18-karat gold. Precious metals make gold watches noticeably heavier than their stainless steel counterparts, and the additional weight increases the perceived value of the watch for the person wearing it.
When we look at some of the other specs for our two rivals, they’re pretty well-matched:
- Tried and true 40-mm Oyster case with a screw-down Triplock crown
- Two-tone Cerachrom bezel with the classic 24-hour scale
- Famed Chromalight display
- Date display with Cyclops lens
- Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
- Water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft)
The Movement
Each of our contenders is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement with a GMT function. The Rolex in-house caliber 3285 boasts a remarkable accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day and a 70-hour power reserve. The watches also feature a high-performance Paraflex anti-shock system and automatic bidirectional winding mechanism. These are Rolex’s new quality standards.
The Complications
Along with an automatic jump date display, the watches feature the standard GMT function for indicating the time in another time zone (or two) by means of an extra GMT hand (which can be adjusted independently of the other hands) and a 24-hour scale on the bezel. The extra hand is arrow-shaped and enjoys a certain cult status in the industry. Here, instead of using color to accentuate the GMT hand, both models feature a GMT hand in the same 18-karat gold tone as the other hands and edges of the indices – a particularly elegant touch. The “GMT-Master II” inscription on both dials is a powdery color. While the additional lettering on the newcomer appears in a pastel yellow hue to complement the lighter gold, that on the dial of the Root Beer is pink, to match the rose gold. The Rolex crown, which is located at 6 o’clock on both timepieces, signals the new movement. In all other respects, the structure and design of the two dials are identical.
Differences Between the Two Models
The Gold Alloy
Unlike the long-time favorite of many fans out there, the new GMT-Master II comes not in rose gold, but in yellow gold. These distinct shades of gold make the two models distinguishable at a glance.
Rose gold lends the GMT-Master II Root Beer a certain subtlety, especially in combination with the stainless steel. The rose gold variant has a warmer look, and intimates a high degree of restraint, despite the overwhelming presence of precious metal.
The newcomer’s yellow gold is bold by comparison, in large part due to the heightened contrast with various skin tones and the other materials used to make the case and bracelet. The Rolesor’s yellow gold brings with it a certain swagger, but the gray tones of the stainless steel and bezel exude elegance and cool. The watch’s authority is apparent at a glance. The timepiece is definitive, but authentic – and that’s precisely what makes it so compelling.
The Bezel
If you compare the abbreviations CHNR (chocolat noir) and GRNR (gris noir) in the reference numbers, you’ll immediately notice another key difference between these two models: the choice of bezel color. The chocolatey brown bezel of the GMT-Master II ref. 126711CHNR underscores the watch’s warm rose gold, while the medium gray of the GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR is clean and uncluttered, gently dampening the brashness of the watch’s yellow gold. Here, the Cerachrom insert is the real star of the show: At dusk or in dim light, the ceramic appears almost black in places, while by daylight, the ceramic’s gray hue shines alongside the silvery tones of the stainless steel. At the same time, the black portion of the bezel subtly draws the eye to the model’s matching black dial, imbuing the design of this two-tone timepiece with sense of calm.
The young upstart could be compared to the discontinued GMT-Master II ref. 116713LN (lunette noire) with a completely black bezel and green GMT hand, but with one caveat: I’ve never really taken monochrome GMT bezels seriously. That said, it would be remiss of me not to mention that the transition from gray to black has been successfully executed with the usual sharp demarcation. This is the level of manufacturing excellence we’ve come to expect from Swiss watchmaking. Rounded off with a scale cast in platinum and yellow gold, the bezel is simply breathtaking.
The Bracelet
Another distinctive innovation in the brand’s two-tone GMT line is the GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR‘s Jubilee bracelet. Already well-known from Rolex’s stainless steel GMT models, the five-piece link bracelet is in no way inferior to the three-piece link Oyster bracelet. Both bracelets feature the Oysterlock fold-over safety clasp with a convenient 5-mm Easylink extension. The Jubilee bracelet looks less sporty overall, which gives the watch a dressier quality. The clasp on the GMT is significantly smaller than that of the Oyster bracelet on the current Submariner. This makes for a more harmonious design, giving the bracelet cleaner lines and the wearer a more modest profile on the inside of their wrist. Essentially, the Jubilee bracelet yields a real vintage vibe, which, together with its yellow gold center links, resonates perfectly.
The Price
Only $300 stand between our two contenders. The difference can be attributed to their bracelets: The Root Beer comes on an Oyster bracelet and costs $16,150. The two-tone GMT-Master II in stainless steel and yellow gold comes on a Jubilee strap and has an MSRP of $16,450. Prices on the secondary market are somewhat higher.
In Short
Despite being in the same weight class (and Rolex watch collection), these two two-tone GMT timepieces couldn’t be more different. Their differing gold tones and bezel colors give them distinct identities. Their bracelets only reinforce this perception, helping each watch to stand on its own. This degree of independence means both watches can coexist wonderfully in one and the same collection.
Which one would come out on top in a head-to-head? Hard to say. I know which one I’d put my money on. Personally, I tend to lean more toward rose gold than yellow, which means I’m well-served by my GMT-Master II Root Beer. As the only two-tone watch in my collection (for now), it definitely occupies an important place in my lineup. But the substantial differences between the two really make me wonder. The new GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR is definitely a contender.
