Carbon is an ultra-modern material that is becoming increasingly popular in watchmaking. Also known as carbon fiber, the material consists of long, thin strands of carbon atoms that are bonded together to form a crystalline structure. The fibers are made into a composite material by impregnating them with a polymer resin and curing them under pressure and heat. This results in an extremely lightweight and strong material, which has a number of advantages and disadvantages. One advantage is that its low weight makes it particularly suitable for use in large, sporty watches, making them more comfortable to wear. Carbon also makes innovative and complex designs possible, as it can be molded into different patterns and textures. Moreover, carbon – in contrast to metal – is highly resistant to environmental influences like moisture and salt water. Another advantage of carbon is that it’s hypoallergenic, making it a great option for people with sensitive skin or metal allergies. However, the solidity of carbon is both an advantage and a disadvantage. While the material is generally highly resistant to impacts, the solid nature is a disadvantage under particularly high loads – namely because the material can become brittle and break. If this should occur, repair is usually not an option. Another disadvantage is the costly manufacturing process, which makes carbon watches more expensive – at least when compared to stainless steel. In this article, we’re presenting three lesser known carbon watches that you may not yet know about.
DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers
DOXA, a watch brand based in the Swiss town of Biel/Bienne, has specialized in the manufacture of diving watches for many years. You can find a small selection of DOXA Sub 300 models with a carbon case on Chrono24. The full name of the variant in question here (ref. 822.70.101AQL.20) is the SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers. The watch was created in collaboration with the US diving equipment supplier Aqua Lung. The carbon case of this diver’s watch, which is limited to just 300 pieces, has a diameter of 42.5 mm. The colors alternate between black and anthracite, creating a camouflage look. As is required of a true diving watch, all relevant information on the dial and bezel is sufficiently covered with Super-LumiNova so that the watch is easy to read even in poor lighting conditions. In keeping with the dark case, the SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers is fitted with a black rubber strap complete with a folding clasp. The proven ETA caliber 2824-2 sets the pace and is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), ensuring its precision. The power reserve is a rather modest 38 hours. You can buy an unworn copy of the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers for just shy of $5,000.
Zenith Defy Classic Carbon
Our next carbon timepiece hails from the luxury watchmaker Zenith, which based in the Swiss town of Le Locle. The Defy collection has been an integral part of the product catalog since 1969, and has earned itself a reputation for particularly robust and durable wristwatches. A few years ago, the watchmaker introduced the Defy Classic Carbon under reference number 10.9000.670/80.R795, which features both a case and bracelet made of carbon. You also have the option of a version with a rubber strap. Typical for the Zenith Defy is its barrel-shaped case, which in this reference has a diameter of some 40 mm. Another characteristic feature is the integrated strap, which gives the watch a decidedly 1970s vibe despite its modern aesthetics. Zenith uses black carbon fiber for both the case and bracelet, which is applied in layers to create a marbled look. A characteristic feature of many Defy variants is a skeletonized dial in the shape of a five-pointed star, mirroring the Zenith company logo. You can read the time by way of luminescent bar indices located on the outer edge of the dial. The watch also has a date display located at the 6 o’clock position. At the heart of the Zenith Defy Classic Carbon is the automatic, in-house Elite 670 SK movement. The caliber offers a power reserve of 50 hours. Other special features of the Elite 670 SK are its open bridges and the black star-shaped winding rotor. You can view these elements at work through the sapphire crystal case back. The water resistance of the Zenith Defy Classic Carbon is 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). The Zenith Defy Classic Carbon on a carbon bracelet costs around $10,000. If you opt for a rubber strap instead, the price drops by roughly $500.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech Blu Abisso PAM01232
The Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech Blu Abisso (ref. PAM01232) is an interesting carbon offering from Italian brand Panerai . The manufacturer presented the diving watch in spring 2022. Prior to that, watches from the Submersible collection were only available in case sizes of 42 and 47 mm. The PAM01232 was the first with a diameter of 44 mm. Panerai turns to the patented Carbotech material – here colored black – for the case with its characteristic crown guard and bezel. The dial, on the other hand, is blue and features the typical Submersible design. Luminescent dot indices dominate the dial, which are interrupted by bar indices at 6 and 12 o’clock. The small seconds dial is located at 9 o’clock, directly across from the date display at 3. Inside the watch, the in-house Panerai caliber P.900 sets the pace. With a power reserve of three days (72 hours), the movement has by far the most longevity on this list. However, wearers don’t have the chance to view the movement, as it is concealed behind a black titanium case back. The water resistance of the QuarantaQuattro Carbotech is 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft), as is standard for the Submersible. The watch is worn on a blue rubber strap that is fastened with a titanium pin buckle. An unworn example of the PAM01232 costs around $15,500 in mint condition.
Summary
Carbon is a useful material for watchmaking thanks to its low weight, robust nature, and modern look. These properties largely outweigh the slight disadvantage that carbon can break under excessive pressure, especially if your watch is intended for everyday use. Nevertheless, I must admit that I love classic watches, which makes stainless steel my clear material of choice. However, as is so often the case when choosing a luxury watch, material preference is a question of individual taste.
