The color blue has long been one of watchmaking’s most popular dial options outside of black and white. Suitable for just about every occasion, able to be paired with just about every outfit, and transformative enough to offer watchmakers the ability to put their own spin on the color depending on what shade they use, what finishing techniques they use, and what layout they use, blue dials are truly timeless. However, like everything in watchmaking, not all dials are born equal and blue dials are no exception. So what blue watches do I think are the best on the market? Let me show you.
Rolex Daytona ref. 116509
Launched in 2016 alongside the formidable Daytona ‘John Mayer,’ the blue-dialed Daytona ref. 116509 was slow to get off the starting block when it came to putting up a fight against the John Mayer in terms of hype and desirability. Sure, its white gold construction isn’t as showy as the John Mayer’s yellow gold and its dial doesn’t benefit from the fact that it is Rolex’s own signature color, but the ref. 116509 quickly became a favorite of mine for those exact reasons.
The ref. 116509 isn’t showy; it isn’t in your face and it isn’t loud. It’s confident in its own legacy as a Daytona that those in the know can appreciate. Beyond its implied meanings, the ref. 116509’s blue dial is just a stunningly well-executed dial. With the Daytona’s appealing layout, a beautiful sunburst effect, and its subtle hints of red, it is a dial that I can stare at for longer than I care to admit, and what else does someone need in a watch dial?
Patek Philippe Ref. 5712A
I know I have begun with two of watchmaking’s most clichéd watches, the Daytona and the Nautilus. Still, these have truly been two of my favorite watches for years – long before secondary prices skyrocketed and they became tools to flex. The Nautilus’ blue dial has been a wonderfully important part of its heritage, so there are plenty of blue-dialed Nautilus references to choose from, but the ref. 5712A is my favorite across the board.
With its unique asymmetrical layout, gentle shadowed effect, signature horizontal pattern, and soft grey undertone, it sings to me as a dial that I could wear forever and never tire of. It’s not a striking kind of blue like many others, but that’s what Patek is about: subtle elegance, and the 5712A has that in abundance, not least because of its dial.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 7900V/110A-B334
In contrast to the ref. 5712A’s more understated dial, we have one of watchmaking’s punchiest blue dials, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 7900V/110A-B334. Launched in 2016, the ref. 7900V has always been my favorite reference amongst the Overseas’ third generation, but fitted with a glossy electric blue dial, it is taken to another level of amazement, at least in my opinion.
Boasting a sporty design that is complemented by practical features like a 150-meter water resistance, a versatile strap-changing system, and a handful of useful complications, the ref. 7900V/110A-B334’s vivid blue dial elevates it from a great all-around sports watch to one of Vacheron’s best offerings of the last decade, and that’s a hill I’ll die on.
H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds “Mega Cool”
Moser has been about blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary style ever since it was taken over by the Meylan family, and the Pioneer Centre Seconds “Mega Cool” embodies that spirit perfectly. I still remember seeing its press release for the very first time when it debuted in 2021, and I can’t help but still be amazed by how good it looks three years later. My favorite Moser still to this day, the Mega Cool is… well… mega cool in my books.
With Moser’s signature fumé effect creating a blue-to-black gradient like none other, the “Mega Cool”’s almost-unbranded blue dial remains one of my favorites all these years later, and that is saying something. While fumé dials have become more common since the “Mega Cool” was released, none have managed to invoke the same emotional response that it did all those years ago (three years is a long time in watchmaking land, okay?).
Vintage Lapis Lazuli Dial Rolex Day-Date in White Gold Ref. 18239
Before I get into my last pick, I should say something. I am generally not a fan of diamonds. I’m typically more of a casual kind of guy when it comes to my watches, as the previous four watches should tell you, and diamonds are often an unnecessary adornment that takes attention away from the watch. However, they can sometimes look great even to me, and one such watch that pulls them off perfectly is the Day-Date. Specifically, the 18kt white gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 18239, and even more specifically, the lapis lazuli variant with diamond-set 6 and 9 o’clock Arabic numerals.
These numerals are subtle and add a touch of luxury without being ostentatious. Combined with the intense natural color and rarity of the lapis lazuli stone that makes the dial itself, the Day-Date ref. 18239 is easily in my top 5 blue-dialed watches, and most importantly, the stone that makes its dial is where we get the word “azure” from, which means a lapis lazuli dialed watch had to feature in this article somewhere. Combined with its white gold construction, the ref. 18239’s electric blue diamond-set stone dial is easily amongst the most captivating dials in watchmaking, and if you don’t agree with that, you’ll at least agree that it’s one of the best blue dials in vintage watchmaking.
