Reaching potential customers has never been easier than in the digital age of social media. While in the past there was hardly any room for niche brands without generous marketing budgets, today it is easier than ever to directly get timepieces to the customer. This is of course also possible via crowdfunding, even before a single watch has been manufactured. On the one hand, the number of microbrands is constantly growing, while on the other hand, some of them disappear from the scene again – or are designed from the outset to create only a limited number of models, followed by them shuttering their operations. It’s safe to say that simply emphasizing the advantages of direct sales (“Cut out the middle man!”) no longer attracts enthusiasts. A microbrand today instead has to offer convincing quality and make this palatable to reach increasingly well-informed customers through credible marketing.
What Makes a Microbrand?
Before we take a look at some remarkable timepieces from microbrands, let’s define what actually constitutes a microbrand – and what doesn’t. Based on my research and personal opinion, here are a few suggestions:
- The brand does not exceed a certain level of recognition or number of employees
- The watches are mainly sold directly to the end customer
- Communication with the customer is immediate and direct
Other criteria include that the brand should not have too long of a history, should be characterized by its founder, and should not be a spin-off of a large corporation. For now, we’ll apply the criteria defined above with a sense of proportion when we present some noteworthy models from popular microbrands.
1. anOrdain
With the introduction of ornate enamel dials made in Glasgow, the Scottish brand anOrdain has taken something supposedly reserved for unaffordable timepieces and made them affordable.
With a team of less than 20 employees, the company still assembles its timepieces, fires the enamel dials, and devotes itself to selected detail work such as tempering the striking hands, all in-house.
Customers can choose between three models, with the anOrdain 1 probably being the most authoritative in their selection. It’s available in three sizes and numerous dial variants, including the coveted fumé dials with graduated color gradients. The only bad news is that “available” is a very elastic term here: the waiting lists, if they’re even offered, put a considerable strain on patience. In 2024, for example, slots were offered for delivery in 2029. The list price of the Model 1 starts at around $2,700 (not including tax) for the smallest version. You can also read more about anOrdain in our brand portrait.
2. Circula
As a self-confessed friend of small watch events and trade fairs, I was once again at Watchtime in Düsseldorf last year. It as always featured many of the more with up-and-coming brands. There I noticed many a timepiece and brand worth writing about. In fact, during my research on the Chrono24 marketplace, I was also able to find an example of the Circula Facet, the brand’s flagship model, one that’s extremely in step with the zeitgeist.
Circula itself is a brand revived in 2017 by the scion of a watchmaking family and its brand, and right at home in the industry.
The Facet stainless steel sports watch impresses with its facets, which are sometimes polished, sometimes brushed. In addition to a unique dial design reminiscent of cogwheels, this timepiece houses a La Joux-Perret caliber, the G100. Circula itself describes the Facet as a “GADA watch” (Go Anywhere, Do Anything). In my opinion, it certainly lives up to this claim. With a price of around $2,200, the Facet falls clearly in the affordable range.
Hanhart
You might think that Hanhart, as a historically significant watch brand with a workforce that once numbered in the triple digits, has no place in this selection. Today, after numerous upheavals and changes in ownership, the brand from the Black Forest with a workforce now of less than thirty employees, definitely belongs on our list.
In addition to chronographs that draw on the rich heritage of the original company, Hanhart also offers interesting three-hand models. For example, the Pioneer Preventor, launched in 2024, which, with its almost four-figure price (depending on the strap) and surface-hardened case, struck such a chord with fans that it sold out immediately.
Perhaps this is why there are currently none to be found on Chrono24. However, the 2024 Aquasphere is also a refreshing diver’s watch.
Baltic
It is also debatable whether Baltic can still be called a microbrand, a legitimate question in view of the hype that individual models have already created. But a look at the date of foundation, which is less than 10 years ago, and the core workforce, which is less than 20 people, tells me that you can still make that claim. The production of components takes place primarily in Asia, with only the final assembly and quality control in France, which enables a much higher output than the company figures suggest. Baltic has no fear of using Chinese movements either, which has helped the Hangzhou 5000A micro-rotor caliber in the Baltic MR achieve a certain degree of fame. Most recently, the Hermétique, a compact field watch with a vintage feel at an affordable price of $575 on a rubber strap, made a convincing impression.
Atelier Wen
Another Franco-Chinese cooperation? Why not? Unlike Baltic, however, the young start-up Atelier Wen focuses on Chinese craftsmanship and manufacturing expertise. Their customers are proactively kept abreast about what is in this watch and who is involved in it.
Atelier Wen does for real guilloché what AnOrdain does for enamel dials. The dials of the Perception model are cut on classic, hand-operated machines, while remaining affordable.
Apart from this “democratization” of the hand-guilloché dials (price start at under $3,500), Atelier Wen stands out with its special transparency and appreciation of its Chinese partners and craftspeople. Atelier Wen is slowly demonstrating what has long been established in other parts of industry: the move away from “Made in China” as an indication of inferior build, towards a clear signal of quality-oriented watchmaking.
