TAG Heuer has long been known as the go-to watch for those who want a reliable, stylish timepiece without unnecessary frills. It’s confident in its identity—rooted in motorsports heritage but versatile enough to appeal to a much broader audience. While its racing legacy remains a core part of the brand, TAG Heuer’s appeal has expanded far beyond the pit lane.
Let’s take a look at TAG Heuer’s history and the creation and evolution of the brands legendary watch models.
1962: Autavia Ref. 2446
The Autavia combines the worlds of automobiles and aviation in more than name alone. Initially conceived in 1933 as a dashboard timer for cars and planes, the Autavia made its way to the wrist starting in 1962. Over the years, the Autavia has sported a variety of dials, bezel styles (fixed and rotating), as well as additional complications like a GMT.
1963: Carrera Ref. 2447
When people think of vintage Heuer, this is likely the first watch that comes to mind, and it continues to be the brand’s flagship model to this day. Jack Heuer names this watch after the Carrera Panamericana, a road race widely regarded as being the most dangerous in the world. The Carrera has been reincarnated countless times throughout its history, and the ref. 2447 specifically has become a collector darling. To capture this same spirit on a budget, check out the 1990s re-editions like the CS311.
1968: Camaro Ref. 7220
The Camaro is one of Heuer’s more underappreciated designs with a production run of only four years. The cushion case is delightfully ergonomic and nicely bridges the design language of the 1960s and the 1970s. The watch featured 3 different manual-wound calibers throughout its run including the famed Valjoux 72. The model remains a relatively approachable way to get into the world of vintage chronographs and vintage Heuer and certainly carries that “if you know, you know” kind of appeal.
1969: Monaco Ref. 1133
Not every watch is recognizable from across the room, but this one is. The Monaco, with its distinctly square case, brings significant presence to the wrist and plays an equally significant role in Heuer’s history. The Monaco was one of the initial 3 watches to launch the Calibre 11, arguably the world’s first automatic chronograph. The crown on the left was a functional choice but signalled to viewers that the movement could wind itself. The watch’s cultural prominence reached new heights when worn by legendary actor Steve McQueen in the film “Le Mans”, and the Monaco remains one of the brand’s most enduring designs.
1977: Monza Ref. 150.501
The Monza celebrated Ferrari’s winning of both the Formula 1 Constructor’s Championship and Driver’s Championship in 1976. The original references were Heuer’s first watches with black coated cases, and they featured striking black and red dials to match. The slightly later model pictured here, nicknamed the “Nicki Lauda”, is the first to say Monza on the dial. These remain some of the more idiosyncratic watches in the brand’s history.
1983: Regatta Ref. 134.603
Here’s a watch you don’t see every day. While most chronographs are designed for land or air, the Regatta sets its sights on the seas. The oddball timing system that tracks 3 sets of 5 minutes is not the most useful in everyday life, but it does come in handy in regattas where boats in motion have to plan their rolling starts. These are serious tools in water but make fun and colorful companions on dry land.
1986: Formula 1
This is the watch that marked the shift from Heuer to TAG Heuer. Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) is a company that makes, among other things, components for Formula 1 cars, and they purchased Heuer one year prior. This line of watches redefined and reintroduced the brand as still racing-obsessed but more consumer focused. The Formula 1 was recently revived through a collaboration with clothing brand KITH and was perhaps inspired by the success of the MoonSwatch and the rising popularity of F1 around the globe.
2005: Aquaracer
The Aquaracer further solidified the shift from professional tool (Heuer) to consumer good (TAG Heuer). The Aquaracer was positioned on the affordable end of luxury and rugged enough to serve as a customer’s one and only watch. The original design reflects the late-Y2K era’s penchant for slightly over-engineered products with an almost action sports slant — a watch that would fit right alongside a pair of Oakley sunglasses.
2015: Connected Ref. SAR8A80.FT6045
Not exactly geared towards horological enthusiasts, the TAG Heuer Connected eschews bygone romance for modern practicality. It’s a smartwatch that doesn’t necessarily look like a smartwatch and offers a broader base of consumers something more upscale than an Apple Watch (at least in terms of price). The most unique Connected in the lineup is the golf edition that — in addition to being more impact-resistant than a mechanical watch — allows wearers to track their score on more than 40,000 courses.
2023: Skipper Ref. CBS2213.FN6002
Out with the new, in with the old! The Skipper is just one example of TAG Heuer paying tribute to their roots. This nautically-inspired chronograph hits that sizing sweet spot with a 39mm case that’s become so popular these days, and the vintage re-editions serve as an olive branch to the enthusiasts community. The tri-color subdial tracks the same 5-minute intervals as the earlier Regatta but in a much more user-friendly way, making for an all around enjoyable watch.
