The history of Seiko dates back to 1881. That was the year Kintaro Hattori opened a watch and jewelry shop in a Tokyo suburb, before founding the Seikōsha factory in 1892 to manufacture and repair wall clocks. The first wristwatches with the brand name “Seiko” were introduced in the mid-1920s, and in the decades that followed, Seiko established itself as a leading innovator in the watch industry. A highlight of these early years was the introduction of the world’s first mass-market quartz watch in 1969, which put Seiko ahead of Swiss competitor Rolex. Today, Seiko is a complex group with several production facilities in Japan and other Asian countries. Like Swatch, Seiko has different brands for different audiences:
- Grand Seiko has a foothold in the luxury segment
- Credor is aimed at the premium segment
- Seiko is the main brand with a wide range of products
- Lorus offers more affordable Seiko Watch Corporation watches
- Pulsar is positioned at the budget end of the market
- Orient Watch: formerly an independent Japanese brand, now part of the Seiko Group
While high-end models are made exclusively in Japan (Credor timepieces even come from Tokyo), parts of the less expensive models may be “Made in China.” What Seiko watches all have in common, however, is that they’re assembled in Seiko factories, not outsourced.
Seiko Watches – Collections and Famous Models
To satisfy the different needs and preferences of watch lovers around the world, Seiko offers a wide range of collections. Of these, the Prospex line of professional sports watches is probably the most popular. Whether it’s a robust diving watch or popular Alpinist model, watches in the Prospex collection are built for reliability and feature advanced functions like water resistance to 1,000 meters (for divers) or a rotating compass bezel (for mountaineers). Also very popular are the Seiko 5 and Seiko 5 Sports lines, which have been offered under the name Seiko 5 Sports since 2020. Given the excellent value for money these automatic watches offer, it’s no wonder they’re so well-liked. These models are powered by reliable mechanical in-house calibers, display the date and day of the week, and come in a variety of styles, so there’s something for everyone.
It’s also worth checking out the elegant Presage collection, which only uses mechanical movements, the Premier series, which combines classic design with cutting-edge tech, the Astron line with its GPS, and the especially luxurious King Seiko models. Although Seiko is known for its affordable watches, some models command astronomical prices – like the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer. This is a rare vintage model from the late 1960s that was produced in a limited edition of only 226 pieces at the time and is now a coveted collector’s item. The Credor Spring Drive Decimal Minute Repeater is Seiko’s highest-priced model. This masterpiece of complications costs some $400,000. Although these high prices are due to a variety of factors, they’re nevertheless proof that Seiko is synonymous with excellence in the art of watchmaking.
Mastery in the Art of Watchmaking and Technology
Seiko’s most meaningful USP is undoubtedly its complete vertical integration of production. Seiko is the only watchmaker in the world that manufactures every component of its watches itself, from the cases and movements to the dials and indices. Seiko is also well-known for the strict quality controls that its Grand Seiko luxury watches undergo. Grand Seiko movements are tested for 17 days under various conditions, including testing in six different positions at three different temperatures. These tests are even more demanding than those for chronometer certification! Seiko has made watchmaking history again and again. Three milestones are particularly impressive:
- 1969: Introduction of the Seiko Astron, the world’s first mass market quartz watch
- 1999: Introduction of Spring Drive technology, which combines the precision of a quartz caliber with the aesthetics of a mechanical watch
- 2012: Introduction of the first-ever wristwatch with an integrated GPS receiver
Japanese Design With Global Influence
The design of Seiko watches is a fascinating illustration of the successful integration of global design trends into the rich culture of Japan. For example, many of Seiko’s watch dials – especially those in the Presage collection – incorporate traditional Japanese art forms such as the use of Shippo enamel, which gives the dials a special depth. At the same time, the watches express a Japanese sense of minimalism, and the beauty of simplicity. They also reflect global trends – not least through collaborations with international icons like fictional spy James Bond (in the 1970s) or real-life tennis legend Novak Djokovic (now). Yet Seiko always manages to preserve its Japanese identity, enriching it with global influences without ever overwhelming it.
Seiko vs. Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko and Seiko may be under the same corporate umbrella, but when it comes to watchmaking, they’re worlds apart. Grand Seiko has positioned itself in the luxury watch sector and has distinguished itself in a number of ways. For one, every Grand Seiko watch is a masterpiece of Japanese craftsmanship. Grand Seiko watches are also produced in limited numbers and exclusively in Japan. While Seiko offers a wide range of designs for different target groups, Grand Seiko focuses on a refined and sophisticated aesthetic. The designs are often inspired by Japanese nature and are characterized by simplicity and elegance. The brand’s Zaratsu polishing technique is particularly impressive, and gives their cases a mirror-smooth surface. The most significant difference between Seiko and Grand Seiko watches is the price. Grand Seiko watches are significantly more expensive than Seiko models – and rightly so, considering their higher quality, exclusivity, and technical innovation. At the same time, their value retention is significantly higher than that of standard Seiko models, which makes Grand Seiko timepieces a potential investment.
