Reference numbers are essential in the world of luxury watches in order to accurately identify the different models. However, it’s helpful to know what the sometimes very long numerical codes actually mean. We would therefore like to take this opportunity to explain how Rolex reference numbers are composed and read.
Reference Number vs. Serial Number
Before we start, however, we should first clarify the difference between a reference number and a serial number. The serial number is absolutely unique and differs for each individual watch. The reference number, on the other hand, is the same for all watches in a particular series. On Rolex watches, you will find the reference number engraved between the lugs at 12 o’clock. The serial number is engraved between the lugs at 6 o’clock on watches produced before 2007. For more recent watches, however, you will find the serial number on the rehaut. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, we can move on to deciphering Rolex refs. Let’s get started!
What do the digits on Rolex reference numbers mean?
Rolex reference numbers can be divided into three categories. Watches from the watchmaker’s early days generally have four-digit reference numbers. Rolex then introduced a five-digit system in the mid-1970s. The watches have carried six-digit refs. since 2000. Each reference number provides information about the watch model, the material used, the caliber, and the type and color of the bezel. Once you learn this code, the modern reference numbers in particular can be read and understood instantaneously. Reading reference numbers can help enormously when buying a watch. With that in mind, we’d like to provide you with a quick guide to deciphering the current six-digit Rolex refs.
First Four Digits
For six-digit references, the first four digits of a Rolex reference number provide information about the model series. For five-digit references, the first three digits are used for this purpose, and for four-digit references, the first two digits are used. The following numbers represent the various Rolex series:
- 1908: 525
- Air-King: 55, 140, 116, 1142, 1269
- Date: 15, 150, 115
- Datejust: 16, 160, 162, 1162, 1262
- Datejust 40/41: 1263
- Datejust II: 1163
- Day-Date: 65, 18, 180, 182, 183, 1182, 1282, 1283
- Day-Date 40: 2282, 2283
- Day-Date II: 2182
- Daytona: 62, 165, 1165, 1265
- Explorer: 142, 10, 1142, 2142, 1242, 2242
- Explorer II: 16, 165, 2165, 2265
- GMT-Master: 65, 16, 1675
- GMT-Master II: 167, 1167, 1267
- Lady Date: 65, 69, 691, 692
- Lady Datejust: 65, 69, 691, 692, 2791, 2793, 2794
- Lady Oyster Perpetual: 67, 671, 672
- Lady Oyster Perpetual Datejust: 68, 682
- Milgauss: 65, 10, 1164
- Oyster Perpetual: 10, 140, 142, 114, 115, 1152, 1243, 1242, 1260, 2762
- Oysterquartz Datejust: 170
- Oysterquartz Day-Date: 190
- Sea-Dweller: 16, 166, 1166, 1266
- Sky-Dweller: 3269, 3261, 3369
- Submariner: 55, 140, 1140, 1240
- Submariner Date: 16, 166, 1166, 1266
- Yacht-Master: 166, 686, 696, 1266, 2686, 2266
- Yacht-Master II: 1166
Fifth Digit
On some models, the fifth and penultimate number provides information about the nature of the bezel. But that’s not all the reference number reveals about the bezel. We’ll talk more about this later. The numbers in the fifth position can have the following meaning:
- 0: smooth or domed bezel
- 1: rotating bezel
- 2: engraved bezel
- 3: fluted bezel
- 4: bark finish or bezel set with gemstones
- 6: Turn-O-Graph
- 7: different shape (e.g., Explorer II)
The numerals 5, 8, and 9 are not currently being used by Rolex in this position. The 5 originally stood for the now-discontinued pyramid bezel, while the 8 was reserved for special bezels; the 9 has yet to be in use.
Sixth and Final Digit
The last digit of the reference reveals which materials are used for the case and bracelet. In the original four-digit Rolex reference numbers, the number for the material is located after the actual reference following a dash. This final number only provides information about the material of the band if it is made of metal. For those watches with a leather or rubber strap, the last digit of the reference number refers solely to the case material. Here are the digits from 0 to 9 and the corresponding material:
- 0: steel
- 1: yellow gold
- 2: white gold or steel with platinum
- 3: Rolesor in steel and 18K yellow gold
- 4: Rolesor in steel and 18K white gold
- 5: gold-plated or 18K Everose gold
- 6: platinum
- 7: 14-karat yellow gold
- 8: 18-karat yellow gold
- 9: 18-karat white gold
Letters
Interestingly, some reference numbers not only consist of numbers, but also have a series of letters. Similar to the fifth number of the reference, these letters refer to the bezel of the watch. However, they do not describe the shape, but provide information about the color and gemstones used. The letter abbreviations are derived from French.
- BLNR: Bleu / Noir (blue / black)
- BLRO: Bleu / Rouge (blue / red)
- CHNR: Chocolat noir (black brown)
- GV: Glace verte (green glass)
- LB: Lunette bleue (blue bezel)
- LN: Lunette noire (black bezel)
- LV: Lunette verte (green bezel)
- RNBW: Rainbow (bezel set with colorful gemstones)
- SA: Sapphire
- SANR: Black sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds
- SARU: Sapphires and rubies
Can you read Rolex reference numbers?
Alright, let’s put you just learned to the test. You should be able to determine key characteristics of the Rolex models with the refs. 116334, 126200, and 116500LN. If it is not immediately clear to you which watches are hidden behind these references, take a look at our quick guide whenever you like. Reading reference numbers will no longer be a mystery to you. A quick search online can usually answer any questions you might have about a specific reference number. This will help you save time, nerves, and possible costs at the jeweler or concessionaire. By the way, if you are interested in Breitling watches, you should definitely take a look at our article “How to Interpret Breitling Reference Numbers“.
