Within the psyche of every experienced watch enthusiast resides a list of names of brands and watchmakers whose work is esteemed as some of the best in the industry.
While names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin are certainly found towards the top of those lists, there exists a name that is perhaps a little lesser known but still deserves to be right there among the best—A. Lange & Söhne. Having endured a rather turbulent history thanks to some, shall we say… ownership challenges, this Glashütte-based German watchmaker roared back to life in 1994.
Going from strength to strength ever since, A. Lange & Söhne is renowned as one of the finest watchmakers around today, with their craftsmanship and attention to detail regarded as some of the best in the industry. Producing a plethora of practically perfect watches, whittling down their catalogue into a handful of favorites is difficult, but nonetheless, let’s take a look at some of their best—at least in my eyes.
1. The Zeitwerk
Starting off with what I think is one of Lange’s most unique watches is the Zeitwerk. First released in 2009, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk was the first-ever mechanically powered digital display wristwatch. Perfectly epitomising Lange’s ability to make the complex look simple—a skill only the most talented have—the digital display might look run-of-the-mill, but the movement behind it certainly isn’t, much like a lot of Lange’s handiwork. Or should I say handiwerk—get it?
To get the numerals to jump instantly like they do, the movement has to release a large amount of energy every minute, double the energy every tenth minute, and three times the energy every hour. This requires an incredibly complex movement that Lange has multiple patents on, applying constant energy to a powerful mainspring to turn the barrel via a constant-force escapement.
Beyond its mechanical marvels—most of which go over my head, to be honest—the design of the Zeitwerk is what makes it so appealing in my eyes. Its dial traces its origins to the Lange 1, which was released during the brand’s rebirth in 1994 (more on that later). The numerals representing the hours and minutes on the Zeitwerk are in the same font as the numerals used in the date aperture of the Lange 1. An “Auf und Ab” power reserve dial at the 12 o’clock position also shows how long the watch has before it runs out of charge, balanced by a running seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position.
Even though its dial is decidedly unconventional for a Lange, the Zeitwerk has undoubtedly been a success for the brand. Combined with its incredibly complex and beautifully finished movement, the Zeitwerk encapsulates everything that the German manufacturer signifies to collectors—elegance and engineering mastery, all while maintaining the brand’s identity and bringing something new and interesting to the market. A difficult equation to balance, and so it is one of my favourite Lange models.
2. The Lange 1 on a Wellendorff Bracelet
Moving from the decidedly modern into the realm of vintage Lange—or neo-vintage, if you are looking at it from an industry-wide view in terms of how relatively recent it is—takes us to the earliest Lange 1 variant. Launched in 1994 along with three other models, the Lange 1 is perhaps the prototypical Lange & Söhne wristwatch. With its off-centre outsize date aperture—inspired by the Five-Minute Clock in the Semper Opera House—asymmetrically positioned hour and minute sub-dial, seconds sub-dial at 5 o’clock, and a power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, the Lange 1’s display has provided the foundation of Lange’s aesthetic, and the watch as a whole has become a staple within the brand’s portfolio of iconic timepieces.
Presented in a universally wearable 38.5mm case, most often made from 18kt yellow gold, the Lange 1 remains refined and balanced nicely on the wrist. Combining this wearability with its understated design, the Lange 1 is unreservedly ‘Lange’ in its execution and design language. However, the king among all of the Lange 1 variants—at least in my opinion—is the original Lange 1 ref. 101.002, launched in 1994. Among those examples were a handful on bracelets made by Wellendorff, and as a bracelet guy, that is easily my favourite.
Made by the German Pforzheim-based jeweller, these 5-link bracelets are extremely rare and were extremely expensive at the time, doubling the price of the watch when compared to its leather-strapped sibling. Discontinued in the early 2000s, they have become a symbol of Lange’s early days, and I just love them.
3. The 1815 Rattrapante Chronograph Honey Gold “Homage to F.A. Lange”
Moving into the realm of modern Lange takes us to one of their best recent releases—at least in my opinion—the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante in 18kt Honey Gold. Launched in 2020 as a limited edition of just 100 pieces to pay homage to F.A. Lange, the brand’s founder, and to celebrate the company’s 175th anniversary, the 1815 Rattrapante is made of Lange’s proprietary blend of 18kt gold that is “considerably harder than platinum”—honey gold.
The first time a split-second chronograph has featured as the standalone complication in a watch from Lange, the 1815 Rattrapante gives the complication centre stage through the use of a stunning black dial made of solid silver, with case-matching honey gold dial furniture in the form of its Breguet numerals, hands, and inscriptions.
Beyond its display, the 1815 Rattrapante boasts a considerable wrist presence through its 41.2mm dimensions. Only 12.6mm tall, the 1815 Rattrapante crams a lot of watchmaking into its case, with its manual-wind cal. L101.2 movement harbouring an exceptional amount of technical prowess across its plethora of bridges, gears, plates, screws, and other surfaces.
Distinctly ‘Lange’ inside and out, this watch epitomises the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship—at least in my view. While other brands have been producing fewer and fewer risky models, Lange has taken it upon themselves to continue pushing boundaries and expanding their catalogue in a novel and meaningful way, showcasing their skill and desire to remain one of the best watchmakers in the modern industry.
