The 1970s are experiencing a revival: pastel colors and minimalism are back, and even watches from the era are making a comeback. But what were the most striking watch design features of the period, and which watches enjoy a particularly good reputation today? We’re taking you on a short journey through time with a closer look at the luxury watches of the ‘70s.
‘70s Designs Are Back
Integrated bracelets, smaller case sizes, and sporty elegance – these are all hallmarks of the ‘70s in the world of watches. When one thinks of the luxury watches of the 1970s, the creations of Gérald Genta are the first to come to mind. Genta-designed classics include the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which are currently the most popular models from these manufacturers. Nautilus editions can easily fetch over a hundred thousand dollars on the pre-owned market, with individual examples reaching the million dollar mark. It’s the same with the Royal Oak, which is sometimes commanding five- to six-figure sums from potential buyers on the secondary market.
But Genta is not only responsible for the defining design of 1970s watches. Designers such as Jörg Hysek from Berlin also had a major impact on the watch world in what was perhaps one of the most influential decades in watchmaking, at least in terms of design. His contribution to haute horlogerie was the Vacheron Constantin 222, which celebrated its premiere in 1977 on the brand’s 222nd birthday, and was relaunched in 2022. Many other well-known manufacturers have also rummaged through their archives in recent years, and brought back models from the ’70s. The trend is clear: ‘70s designs are very much in vogue and making a comeback.
What were the most popular watch brands and watch designs in the seventies?
Both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak were trendsetters in the 1970s. Their design features and integrated bracelets are a big part of their unmistakable look. The focus is inevitably on the bracelet, making it the secret star of the show. The intricately designed Royal Oak bracelet is an absolute hallmark of the model and, thanks to its various polishes, is a real eye-catcher on an otherwise “simple” stainless steel watch. Thanks to its sporty appearance and noble origins, the Nautilus also quickly became a popular status symbol for upscale clientele. Whether sailing or at the country club, the Nautilus was commonly part of this lifestyle. Hysek’s Vacheron Constantin 222 also generated enthusiasm with its integrated bracelet and clear, sleek lines.
Re-Issued Models
The Nautilus and Royal Oak need no introduction. Plus, we want to introduce you to other retro models with a trendy ’70s look that you may have missed, from affordable entry-level models to haute horlogerie heavyweights.
Vacheron Constantin 222 With a New 1970s Design
Resurrected on February 2, 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is the brand’s popular model with an integrated bracelet. The new version measures 37 mm case in diameter and is a stunning masterpiece in solid yellow gold. The bracelet, case, dial, hands, bezel, date disc, and indices of this timepiece are all made of this precious metal. Only a small white gold Maltese cross on the lower right lug and the white luminous material on the indices and hands interrupt the watch’s 18-karat yellow gold shine. An unworn example costs around $86,000 on Chrono24. For a well-maintained pre-worn piece, the price is around $75,000. You should budget around $8,500 for a vintage model from the 1970s.
Price-Performance Winner: The Tissot PRX
Tissot has a real bestseller in the PRX Powermatic 80. With a list price of $870 (automatic caliber) or $500 (quartz caliber), the PRX is by far the most affordable watch on our list. Many watch fans like to jokingly refer to the Tissot PRX as the “Royal Oak for the price-conscious,” and this is no coincidence. With its integrated bracelet, slightly angular case, and tapisserie dial, the watch indeed bears a certain resemblance to the Audemars Piguet classic. The Tissot PRX is now available in a wide range of models. You can choose from stainless steel, carbon, and two-tone models and a variety of different dial colors. The PRX is also available in diameters of 35 or 40 mm. The collection also includes timepieces with a chronograph function.
IWC Ingenieur With a Seventies Genta Look
In 1976, the International Watch Company (IWC) decided to replace the somewhat outdated-looking Ingenieur, which had been an integral part of the IWC program since 1954. Following the success of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, Gérald Genta was commissioned to design the Ingenieur SL. The watch has everything that makes up the universally acclaimed “Genta look” – an integrated bracelet, a tidy, structured dial, an angular case design, and a wide bezel with decorative screws. Due to its similarity to the other two watches, connoisseurs consider the Ingenieur SL to be part of the “Holy Trinity” of Genta watches. IWC produced various versions of the Ingenieur SL until 2001, and in the years that followed, the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer introduced several Ingenieur models that were more or less influenced by Genta’s design. It wasn’t until 2023 that IWC launched the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, a watch that reintroduced Genta’s unmistakable design contours. You can also buy stainless steel versions of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 on Chrono24 starting at around $12,000 in unworn condition. A pre-worn specimen will set you back about $10,500. You should budget a good $13,500 for a titanium model in mint condition. Used models are only slightly more affordable at around $13,000.
Glashütte Watches: Bringing the Past Back to Life
The popular German manufacturer Glashütte Original dedicates an entire watch line to this legendary decade with its Seventies Collection. These watches have their own unmistakable ‘70s vibe, thanks to their integrated bracelets. These are attached to a square case with rounded edges.
The collection includes three-hand watches and chronographs. In both cases, Glashütte Original equips the watches with the manufacturer’s characteristic “Panorama Date.” Plan to spend between $8,000 and $10,000 on a three-handed model. Chronographs prices start at around $13,000.
Vintage Watches from Omega
The 1970s was also the decade of the tonneau-shaped watch. An example of this is the Omega Constellation with its “C-type” case, designed – surprise, surprise – by Gérald Genta. This timepiece is perhaps one of the most affordable ways of getting your hands on a vintage watch from the ‘70s with an original Genta design. On a leather strap, this watch changes hands for roughly $3,000. In return, the Constellation offers something truly astonishing: an automatic movement with a date complication and excellent accuracy, all in a gold case. Even though the model and look are (strictly speaking) more in line with the 1960s, many Omega watches from the 1970s have this shape.
That ‘70s Look From Rolex and Tudor
Not all trendy 1970s watches need a Genta design, as the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, also known as the “Steve McQueen Explorer,” proves. This watch does not have an integrated bracelet, nor does it have a particularly avant-garde look. Instead, its aesthetic is characterized by an undeniable coolness and a unique flair. This is how the Explorer II became a ‘70s icon. With the Black Bay Pro, Tudor presented a model at Watches and Wonders 2022 that revisits the design language of the legendary Rolex Steve McQueen. While the original second-hand Rolex watch will set you back a good $29,000, you can call an unworn Tudor Black Bay Pro your own for around $3,800 on Chrono24. For this significantly lower price, you get a very similar look, a modern chronometer caliber, the same complications, and a moderate 39-mm case.
The Return of LCD and Digital Watches
The 1970s was also the decade in which quartz technology took hold in the watch world. Digital timepieces like the Hamilton PSR continue to be reissued, the classic Casio is still a perennial favorite, and Citizen models remain popular. Even more unusual models such as the Bulova Computron are once again proving so popular that a new version of the ‘70s LED watch was launched in 2019. In 2022, luxury watch manufacturer Girard-Perregaux unveiled the Casquette 2.0, a limited edition of the iconic digital watch originally produced between 1976 and 1978. The Casquette’s atypical movement makes it one of the coolest LED watches of the ‘70s.
