Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva saw Swiss watchmaker Rolex unveil a number of new timepieces. In the anniversary year of the Submariner (1953) and Daytona (1963), Rolex caught the industry off-guard with the release of two new GMT-Master IIs that fans will be sure to love: the solid yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126718GRNR) and the Rolesor (steel and yellow gold two-tone) Rolex GMT-Master II (ref. 126713GRNR).
Yellow gold? Absolutely! The OG type of gold is back in the house with its GMT brethren, creating probably one of the biggest sensations in recent years. In terms of the Rolex catalog, the GMT-Master II has always been kept carefully in its own lane, similar to, but in other ways separate from, its older Submariner sibling. For instance, in addition to the solid gold and two-tone GMT-Master II, Rolex has also offered this watch in its proprietary Everose gold, a material the Submariner has never been made from (to date). These two new GMT-Master II models will now make it temptingly difficult for frequent-flyer jet-setters to choose exactly which GMT gold variant they want on their wrists.
Having taken a close look at the two-tone Rolesor, today we’re checking out the solid yellow gold GMT-Master II, ref. 126718GRNR. What exactly does Rolex’s new golden boy bring to the table?
A Look Back at the First and Last Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542/8
Rolex has a portfolio containing more iconic mechanical luxury watches than the rest of the competition combined. Like the prominent models including the Datejust, Submariner, Daytona, and Sea-Dweller, the GMT-Master looks back on a rich heritage. It’s probably the most recognizable Rolex sports model, clearly an A-lister among watches. To get a better idea of the import of the new yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, let’s first take a look at the beginnings of the stainless steel icon, and work our way forward through the years to arrive at the recently discontinued yellow gold reference.
Ever heard the origin story of the GMT-Master? Let’s turn the clock back nearly 70 years, to 1954. That’s when Rolex worked in collaboration with Pan American Airlines to release the GMT-Master reference 6542 with its 1036 caliber. The 38-mm stainless steel timepiece had a black dial and a red and blue Bakelite bezel. This specific reference is truly the classic of all GMTs. While it was manufactured in high numbers to equip Pan Am flight personnel, only about 200 pieces of a white-dial, aka “albino” variant were ordered for the airline’s ground personnel. It’s these two watches that would form the basis for the first gold GMT-Master.
The first stainless steel reference was the famous 6542/8, and originated in the GMT-Master’s birth year, 1954. Like the entire Rolex catalog during this era, the brand’s steel GMTs had a more “tooly” DNA. There were, however, a few solid gold models manufactured during this period, which today are extremely rare, even more so than their stainless steel counterparts from the same era, commanding prices of more than $200,000 on the global market. This GMT-Master ref. 6542/8 is a joy to behold:
- 18-karat yellow gold
- Cognac-brown dial with 18-karat “nipple” and baton indices
- 24-hour rotatable Bakelite bezel
- Solid gold sword hands
- 18-karat Jubilee bracelet with deployant clasp
A true grail watch for many collectors.
A Look Back at the Rolex GMT-Master II Yellow Gold ref. 116718LN
The reference 116718LN is known for its robustness. Discontinued in 2018, it features modern materials like sapphire crystal and ceramic, for an uncompromising look and feel. Its remarkable build quality is the result of the years Rolex spent optimizing its anti-magnetic properties, along with its scratch-, water-, and shock-resistance.
Rolex GMT-Master II reference 116718LN in black and green dials
You can select between a black or green dial on this modern GMT timepiece. The former delivers the perfect contrast to its yellow gold hand set. The moss-green variant, on the other hand, stands out a bit more, offering a very sophisticated look. Both models come with a black bezel (LN = lunette noire), and exclusively on an Oyster bracelet; a Jubilee is not available for the ref. 116718LN. This gives both color variants a very sporty look, which is enhanced even further with the single-color bezel, as also seen with the stainless steel GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN. Here, the watch takes a small but significant step away from its original, classic DNA, even while the overall package still impresses through and through.
The GMT-Master II yellow gold reference 126718GRNR in detail
On the one hand, plenty of things have changed since the 1950s. On the other hand, they really haven’t. What does this mean exactly? Well, the current GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR is the most highly-developed pilot’s watch on the market. Its movement and modern materials promise much higher quality compared to the 70-year-old original model. And yet, the GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR is the spitting image of its GMT-Master ref. 6542/8 great-grandfather. It’s got all the modern features, shrouded in the nostalgic garb of the original model, which gives the watch an amazing vintage vibe.
The GMT-Master II ref 126718GRNR reveals a little secret in its model number, something that was not evident upon first glance at Watches and Wonders 2023. No matter how high-resolution the digital images were, observers might have missed this: As opposed to the predecessor models (refs. 116713LN and 116718LN), the new yellow gold GMT-Master II does nothave a single-color black bezel (LN = lunette noire), but a dyadic gray (GR = gris) and black (NR = noir) two-color bezel for tracking day and night times. The gray hue on the ceramic bezel contrasts vibrantly and elegantly with the yellow gold, while the black hue harmonizes perfectly with the dial.
This is the first time Rolex has ever done this with one of its ceramic bezels. It’s really something to behold, and easy enough to miss under more than a few lighting conditions. The bezel makes you think that it’s entirely black in one kind of light, while in another, it will repeatedly grab your attention as your eyes pass across the subtle color transition of the ceramic inlay.
Another great attribute of the GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR is that it’s finally back on a Jubilee bracelet, in 18-karat gold (of course), a sight not seen since the discontinuation of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718 nearly 20 years ago. This heavyweight among pilot’s watches will sit beautifully on your wrist, thanks to its comfortable, five-link, modern bracelet.
In Short
Vintage watches are kind of a paradox when it comes to appearance and haptics. Their cases are no longer 100% water-resistant, and their bracelets (especially Jubilees) have most likely lost some of their tension. And yes, this also applies to fine vintage products from the house of Rolex. It reminds me of the words of a very good friend of mine who’s also a watch enthusiast: “I like vintage watches. But just pictures of them.”
Where does this put the new GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR? You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch that exudes the Rolex vintage spirit the way this timepiece does. And that’s exactly the key to Rolex’s success. The yellow gold GMT-Master sees the Swiss watchmaker embodying its rich heritage yet again, with this new model standing for everything the Rolex brand is about. After 70 years, the design is still appealing, as it combines a great retro feel with modern, robust design. Let’s also not forget that this watch is anything but subdued, and will need a backdrop worthy of its fantastic look: hanging out the window on the arm of someone driving a sleek Porsche; adorning the wrist of a jet-setter on their latest first-class flight; poised at the helm of a yacht, ready to sail to the next island. No matter where the new yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II is, a few fundamental things remain the same: it’s one amazing horological creation, and a great-looking watch.
