This is a category as big as the ocean itself. Anybody who fancies themselves a tool watch fan, or perhaps even a watch fan in general, should have a diver in their personal lineup. Beyond the history of each model, perhaps the biggest advantage is the sheer practicality of divers. You can beat them up, get them wet, and many would argue they’re a more user-friendly timer than chronographs. They’ve transcended their military roots into widespread cultural popularity, and they’re not going away anytime soon. With that in mind, let’s take a look at the references making the biggest splash on the market today.
1. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 126660
This is probably not the Rolex diver you were expecting to see at the top of this list. The Submariner is, for many, the first dive watch that comes to mind when people mention the category. Its design has been copied by many and it famously landed on the wrist of James Bond. However, with so many variations within the Submariner lineage, the total sales are spread out over various references. Enter the Sea-Dweller Deepsea 126660. It’s the toughest watch made by Rolex, and it’s an endgame watch for those seeking the biggest and the baddest that the industry has to offer.
2. Omega Seamaster 300M 210.30.42.20.03.001
Tried, true, and in this case, blue. The Omega Seamaster 300M is a mainstay for those that want a proven tool from one of the greatest watch brands in history. This watch balances hardcore features like a helium escape valve and 300m of water resistance with more luxurious touches like lyre lugs, a textured dial, and a display caseback. It’s a watch that looks and feels quality without drawing too much attention to itself.
3. Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313
It’s big, it’s bold, and to the Paneristi among us, it’s simply beautiful. The unmistakable silhouette of the Luminor is created by its cushion-shaped case and the signature locking crown guard mechanism. This is one of the easiest watches to read if you’re deep underwater or if you happened to have forgotten your glasses. At 44mm, there’s no shortage of wrist presence, and that’s all part of the charm.
4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 WBP201B.BA0632
It’s easy to get carried away in this hobby, and this watch can serve as either the gateway drug into the deep world of collecting or it’s the only watch you ever need. TAG Heuer is better known for their connection to the race track, but they do make a solid diver with an automatic movement, 300m of water resistance, and enough details to keep it interesting. This watch, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, is the most affordable on today’s list, but with everything that it offers, you can be confident that you’re getting your money’s worth.
5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 5100-1140-O52A
Blancpain is not the first name you learn in watches. In fact, it’s one of the better kept secrets in the industry. The original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dates to 1953, and this contemporary Bathyscaphe represents a cleaner, more minimal chapter in this watch’s lineage. The dial has room to breathe here thanks to rather unobtrusive hour markers, and it may take an extra second to notice the date window tucked between 4 and 5 o’clock. It’s the diver for those that want low-key luxury – quality without the attention.
