Today’s watch world mainly revolves around tool watches. From dive watches to GMTs and chronographs, these were originally designed as practical tools to get a job done. Their popularity as versatile daily wearers has made them sought after both as new and pre-owned pieces. But have you ever considered a stylish dress watch, particularly a vintage one? Often, vintage dress watches from famous brands can be found at more affordable prices. We’ve selected five vintage dress watches that would make an incredible addition to any collection. For this list, we’ve set a maximum budget of 2,500 EUR.
Vintage Dress Watches: What to look for
Before we dive into our Top 5, here are a few things to consider when searching for affordable vintage dress watches:
1. Condition of the Watch
The most important factor is whether the watch is in good technical condition. You want to avoid expensive repairs and long waits for parts. If you choose a brand like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, or Omega, you should generally be fine regarding the availability of parts and repairs. However, it’s essential to research this beforehand. For example, choosing a long-discontinued brand can make things tricky. It’s also important to determine whether all parts are original and period-correct. Parts such as the crystal and crown might have been replaced during previous services, but you’ll want to ensure they’ve been replaced with original parts.
2. Warranty
Will you receive a warranty from the seller? Most dealers or professional sellers can provide a 6-month warranty on the watch you purchase. However, with private sellers, the warranty often ends once the sale is complete. In this case, it’s crucial to ensure the watch is in good working condition before you buy it.
3. Include a Service in Your Budget
If your total budget is 1,000 EUR, it’s better to go for an 800 EUR watch and set aside 200 EUR for service, rather than buying a €1,000 watch and having no money left for service or repairs. This is especially important if the watch doesn’t come with a proper warranty (see point 2) or hasn’t been recently serviced. Always ask for concrete proof of service; don’t accept vague excuses like “I lost the invoice.”
4. Size, Size, Size
Fifty to sixty years ago, watches were generally smaller in size. Dress watches don’t need to be large; they should be sophisticated and elegant. You might be able to pull off a 34mm – 36mm watch even if you have larger wrists. Make sure to try these different sizes before you buy. Also, case design and lug shape can significantly differ between a 34mm IWC and a 34mm Doxa, for example. Don’t focus solely on the case size; consider the shape and proportions of the lugs as well.
5. Straps and Buckles
In most cases, you can forget about boxes and papers unless you’re dealing with a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin. Ensure your watch is fitted with a decent strap and buckle, preferably an original branded buckle. Additionally, some dress watches come with matching bracelets. Always verify that the bracelet is original and in good condition so you can actually wear it.
My Top 5 Vintage Dress Watches
With that in mind, let’s get into our list of five vintage dress watch options!
Omega Seamaster from the 1950s or 1960s
A great affordable choice is one of the many Omega Seamaster and Seamaster DeVille models from the 1950s and 60s. These Seamaster models come in various versions, giving you plenty of options to find one in good condition that you like. A great example is the Omega Seamaster ref. 166.010 from the late 1960s. This watch has a 35mm case with nice wide lugs, making it look great on both a strap and bracelet. You can find them starting at roughly 500 EUR and going up to 2,000 EUR depending on the condition. Another excellent option is the Omega Seamaster DeVille, offering that classic sixties Seamaster look for anywhere from 500 EUR to 1,500 EUR in stainless steel, and up to 2,500 EUR for a full gold model.
King Seiko from the 1960s
Some of you might be familiar with King Seiko. During the 1960s and early 70s, King Seiko and Grand Seiko competed to create the best wristwatches in the world—watches that excelled in accuracy and stood out in design. Eventually, Seiko decided to keep the Grand Seiko name and discontinue King Seiko. However, watch enthusiasts know just how excellent the King Seiko watches from that short timeframe are. That’s why it’s worth looking for a King Seiko model from the 1960s, and the good news is that they can be yours for under 1,000 EUR. Look for the King Seiko 45-7001 or 4420-9990 for that instantly recognizable style and a wonderful Hi-Beat movement. They’re truly fantastic!
Longines Flagship from the 1950s or 1960s
Another illustrious name in the watch industry is Longines. The brand has plenty of vintage dress watches that would be perfect for this list. We chose the Longines Flagship models from the 1950s and 60s. If you’re familiar with Longines’ current collection, you might know that the Flagship name is still in use today. But instead of buying a modern Flagship, I recommend checking out the vintage models with that classic dress watch style. What makes them stand out is the proud Longines logo on the upper half of the dial and the Flagship sign-off on the lower half. A great example is the Longines Flagship ref. 3407, which can be yours starting at €500 and going up to €4,500 for full gold models.
Zenith Stellina from the 1950s
Another prestigious brand still around today is Zenith. The brand is mostly known for its El Primero series of watches, which debuted in 1969. But in the 1950s and 60s, Zenith created a great number of incredible dress watches that look fantastic and are powered by legendary movements. Because the brand created so many great options, a good place to start is Zenith’s Stellina series. Prices start at roughly 500 EUR and go up to 1,500 EUR for steel models in excellent condition. If you prefer a gold model, be prepared to pay up to 2,500 EUR. What you get in return is an awesome, stylish statement from the 1950s.
IWC Cal. 89 from the 1940s, 1950s, or 1960s
The final pick on our list is a series of IWC watches powered by the legendary Caliber 89 movement. The famous brand from Schaffhausen created a range of models using this manual winding caliber over several decades, giving you plenty of options. Our pick would be the legendary IWC ref. 810, featuring the IWC logo proudly positioned just below the 12 o’clock marker. Expect to pay anywhere from 1,500 EUR to 2,000 EUR for a steel model, and up to 3,000 EUR for a full gold version. This will get you one of the most famous watches from that era.
There you have it—our list of five vintage watch models that are excellent choices if you want to add an affordable dress watch to your collection. All that’s left to say is: happy hunting!
