There’s a new rival to Patek Philippe for the title of greatest watchmaker on the planet, and it’s not even from Switzerland. A. Lange & Söhne stormed back onto the scene in the early 1990s after decades of dormancy, instantly selling out their release of 123 watches across four models. The Glashütte-based brand has made their mark with beautifully decorated movements (all in-house, of course) and with bold, impactful dials. Every detail is executed to the highest degree, and their collectors are some of the most discerning in the industry. There is no hype surrounding A. Lange & Söhne, only reverence.
1994: Lange 1 Ref. 101.001
Of the four models in Lange’s 1994 relaunch, there is one – as the name implies – that stands above the rest. The Lange 1 is more than your average time-and-date watch, and it took years of fine-tuning to perfect the asymmetrical yet balanced dial. While it may appear jarringly off-kilter at first, the core elements are aligned to create an equilateral triangle, grounding them in negative space. Even now, as the Lange 1 has iterated through dozens of forms over the last three decades, that original vision remains as clear and as impactful as ever.
1994: Saxonia Ref. 102.001
The Saxonia collection represents the most reserved offering in Lange’s catalogue. A few razor-sharp elements combine to create a watch that is anything but boring, and by leaving out any ephemera, it places more emphasis on what is. The original Saxonia sits at 34mm, although hands-on experience will confirm that it wears more substantially than the numbers might suggest. And interestingly enough, the first examples were fitted with squarish Arkade movements behind closed casebacks – an idiosyncratic detail that collectors love.
1994: Arkade Ref. 103.001
Of the four initial models in Lange’s 1994 relaunch, the Arkade is the most unusual. Measuring a modest 22mm x 29mm, the Arkade was designed with women’s wrists in mind, although like the Cartier Tank, the model looks equally fetching on a man. The nearly tonneau-shaped case is inspired by the arcades of Dresden Castle, and the dial design is similar to the Saxonia but in a slimmer and more delicate presentation. The Arkade never earned the same acclaim as its brethren, but that just makes it a better deal for those contemporary collectors enamored by its charms.
1994: 1815
What you see here is the first wristwatch to combine a fusée and chain mechanism and a tourbillion. The 1815 model has taken on various forms over the last three decades, but its original Pour le Mérite tourbillon presentation put Lange’s technical abilities at the forefront of the conversation. The prevalence of closed casebacks among Lange’s other models in the class of 1994 makes the exposed tourbillion even more provocative, allowing wearers to look directly into the beating heart of the watch with every glance at the wrist. It still exudes all the reserved sophistication you’d expect from the German watchmaker but in a slightly more unapologetic form.
1997: Cabaret Ref. 107.031
A few years following Lange’s triumphant return, we see the release of the Cabaret. Several other brands have found success with square watches over the years including icons like the Cartier Tank and the JLC Reverso, so it was only natural for the Germans to put forth their own. The Cabaret is the brand’s foray into the category with a large date creating a distinctly Lange feel. Collectors can find this watch in each of the four precious metals and with later variations including a moonphase, tourbillion, or mother of pearl dial. Perhaps the most attractive details of this watch are the curved case profile and the wonderfully decorated square movement visible through the display back.
1999: Datograph Ref. 403.035
Here’s a watch so good that Philippe Dufour called it “the best chronograph movement ever made.” When the Datograph debuted in 1999, it was one of the first in-house chronograph wristwatches since the quartz crisis. The Datograph is instantly recognizable not only for its large date at the top of the dial but also for its slightly unconventional subdials that are situated closer to 4 and 8 o’clock than they are to 3 and 9. The original Datograph with its Roman numeral dial was discontinued in 2012 when Lange introduced the updated Datograph Up/Down. Production numbers for the early Datographs across all metals are said to number only around three thousand, putting them into grail territory for many collectors.
2001: Langematik Perpetual
It can be said that a watchmaker is not really taken seriously until they produce a perpetual calendar. Lange was on a mission to solidify not only its own standing in the world but that of German watchmaking as well. The brands of the “Holy Trinity” perhaps first come to mind when discussing perpetual calendars, and starting in 2001, Lange entered the conversation with the Langematik Perpetual. Lange’s answer to the QP stands out with its focus on the large date, its Roman numeral hour markers, and its uncharacteristic yet practical use of lume.
2006: Richard Lange
One way to understand the Richard Lange watch is to look to the brand’s lineup until this point. Lange had essentially proven what they needed to prove with one complicated watch after another, so the brand created a watch Lange enthusiasts describe as harmonious, cohesive, and just beautiful. With each new, complicated movement, with each new patent, Lange had been doing more and more and more. Now it was time to craft a watch embodying Da Vinci’s axiom: simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.
2009: Zeitwerk
At this point, Lange is just showing off. The Zeitwerk utilizes a digital display to show the time (digital in the classical watchmaking sense and not the consumer electronics sense). The movement governing this waltz is surprisingly complex and requires a significant amount of power to complete the 1608 disc jumps per day. The watch was unlike anything the brand had done before and did not follow any watchmaking trends of the time. Naturally, people either loved it or hated it, and there was no in between.
2019: Odysseus Ref. 363.169
Lange waited nearly three decades after its revival to create a sports watch. The Odysseus, launched in 2019, recontextualizes Lange’s design DNA in a steel, Genta-esque package with 100m of water resistance. The move was long rumored on forums and in collector circles with many seeing it as inevitable. The Odysseus no doubt broadens the audience for the brand’s timepieces, but with a large date, prominent lugs, and a three-part case, the Odysseus is still undoubtedly a Lange.
