Hamilton Khaki: Tool Watches with a Military Flair
The Khaki collection is Hamilton's most popular line of watches. It offers a wide range of retro timepieces with modern technology, including professional diving watches, chronographs, and pilot's watches with a drift-angle calculator.
Khaki: Modern Technology, Retro Designs
The Khaki collection is the crown jewel of the Hamilton catalog. It embodies everything the brand stands for, combining Swiss precision with American grit. The manufacturer breaks the collection down into three sub-collections – Khaki Field, Khaki Aviation, and Khaki Navy – each with its own set of sub-series.
Despite the many options, the entire Khaki family is united by its durability and appealing retro charm. For example, Hamilton's designers turned to vintage military and navigation watches from the 1930s and 40s when creating the Khaki Field series. Then there's the Khaki Navy collection with its professional diving watches, including the Scuba and BeLOWZERO 1000M, as well as retro timepieces modeled after vintage navy watches.
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation collection is home to the manufacturer's pilot's watches. Models like the Khaki Pilot and Khaki Day Date resemble pieces Hamilton made for U.S. Air Mail and the United States military in the 1940s. For something more modern, there's the the X-Wind series. These timepieces boast more contemporary designs and a practical mechanism for calculating drift caused by crosswinds .
Hamilton sources the Khaki collection's automatic and quartz movements from fellow Swatch Group member, ETA.
Reasons to Buy a Hamilton Khaki
- A wide range of retro tool watches
- Proven automatic and quartz ETA calibers
- Khaki X-Wind with a drift-angle calculator
- Khaki BeLOWZERO: Water-resistant to 1,000 m (100 bar, 3,281 ft)
How much do Hamilton Khaki watches cost?
|Model/Reference number||Price (approx.)||Feature(s)|
|X-Wind Auto Chrono, H77726351||2,200 USD||Chronograph, day-date, drift-angle calculator, automatic|
|Navy Pioneer Mechanical Ltd. Ed., H78719553||2,000 USD||Small seconds, manual winding, 46 mm, limited run of 1,892 pieces|
|BeLOWZERO 1000M Auto, H78585333||1,300 USD||Water-resistant to 1,000 m (3,281 ft), date, automatic, 46 mm|
|Field Auto Chrono, H71626735
||1,200 USD||Chronograph, day-date, black PVD coating, automatic|
|Field Mechanical, H69819530
||1,000 USD||Date, automatic|
|Navy Frogman Auto, H77725335||900 USD||Date, water-resistant to 300 m (984 ft), locking crown|
|Pilot Pioneer Mechanical, H76419531||750 USD||Manual winding, 36 mm in diameter|
|Pilot Day Date Auto, H64615145||720 USD||Day-date, automatic|
|Navy Scuba Auto, H82345941||550 USD||Date, water-resistant to 100 m (328 ft), automatic|
|Field Quartz, H68201143||400 USD||Date, quartz movement|
Prices for a Khaki Field
The Khaki Field is perhaps the most famous Hamilton watch series. Its designs are largely based on the military and navigation watches Hamilton produced for the US and British militaries in the 1940s and 50s. Each timepiece has a double time scale: an outer scale for 1 to 12, and in inner scale for 13 to 24. Khaki Field watches are also united by their unique hands. Their sword-syringe-hybrid shape enables optimal readability. Luminous material coats the hands and indices so you can always tell the time, even in the dark.
Hamilton offers the Khaki Field with both quartz and automatic calibers. A good example of an automatic model is the Day Date Auto ref. H70535081. It has a 42-mm brushed stainless steel case and sapphire crystal protecting its gray dial. The namesake day-date display sits at 3 o'clock. This timepiece is worn on an olive green textile strap and sells for about 650 USD new on Chrono24. Hamilton lists the same watch for 895 USD. If you'd prefer a less classically military design, you may enjoy the Day Date Auto ref. H70505133. It's also 42 mm in diameter; however, thanks to its polished bezel, date window at 6, and day display at 12 o'clock, this watch feels much more elegant. Plan to spend roughly 720 USD on a mint-condition version. Pre-owned pieces cost around 600 USD.
There are also plenty of options without a date display. These timepieces belong to the Khaki Field Auto series and are available in four sizes: 38, 40, 42, and 44 mm. The automatic caliber H-10 powers each watch. This movement is based on the ETA C07.111 and comes with a date display at 3 o'clock and an 80-hour power reserve. You can choose from a wide range of dial colors – including black, silver, khaki, olive green, blue, and off-white – as well as various stainless steel bracelets and leather or textile straps. Prices for these watches depend on the model and range from 460 to 700 USD.
Features of the Khaki Field
- Stainless steel case, select models with a PVD coating
- Automatic and quartz ETA movements
- Date or day-date display
- Available in men's and women's sizes
- A wide selection of retro military-style watches
Khaki Field Watches with Manual Calibers
Hamilton produces Khaki Field watches with manual calibers under the name Khaki Field Mechanical. These timepieces get their power from the H-50 movement, a modified version of the ETA 2801-2. This model is available as a 38 or 50-mm watch. Most versions have a brushed stainless steel case, though some select models feature a black or earth brown PVD coating. A textile or leather strap holds each watch securely on the wrist.
A 38-mm timepiece in stainless steel requires an investment of about 410 USD. PVD-coated watches of the same size demand slightly more at 480 USD. You'll have to make a much larger investment for a 50-mm Khaki Field Mechanical. These watches sell for around 990 USD.
Hamilton equips the 42-mm Khaki Field Auto Chrono with the caliber H-21, which is based on the legendary Valjoux 7750. It has a 60-hour power reserve and comes with a day-date display at 3 o'clock, a minute counter at 6, and an hour counter at 12. You won't find a small seconds subdial on any of these timepieces.
The Field Auto Chrono is available with a brushed stainless steel or black PVD-coated case. Watches with a black case also feature a black dial, numerals, and hands, resulting in a particularly sleek design. You can call one of these stylish black timepieces your own for about 1,500 USD new and 1,200 USD pre-owned. Plain stainless steel editions cost between 1,000 and 1,300 USD.
Quartz-Powered Khaki Field Watches
The Khaki Field Quartz line shares much of its design with the Khaki Field Auto, including its wide variety of sizes, dial colors, and bands. Options include 33, 38, or 40-mm watches with a black, blue, silver, khaki, or olive green dial. The final watch is mounted on a stainless steel bracelet or matching textile, leather, or synthetic leather strap. Hamilton outfits these watches with modern quartz movements from ETA, such as the F06.111, which you'll find in the 38-mm models.
The most affordable version is the 33-mm ref. H68311533. This watch changes hands for around 300 USD. The 38 and 40-mm editions cost slightly more at 400 and 430 USD, respectively.
The Hamilton Khaki Navy collection contains timepieces at home in the water. The collection is further broken down into two sub-series: the Scuba and the Frogman. While the former is comprised of diving watches, the latter is inspired by vintage navy watches.
The Khaki Navy Scuba Auto line is by far the largest. These watches feature everything you'd expect from a diving watch: a unidirectional diving bezel, luminous wedge indices, glow-in-the-dark hands, and a water resistance of 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). The dial and bezel inlay come in your choice of black, blue, or green – some with orange accents. Hamilton mounts the 40-mm stainless steel case on a matching, diver-friendly rubber, textile, or stainless steel band. The automatic caliber H-10 powers these watches and provides them with an 80-hour power reserve.
Prices for a Khaki Navy Scuba range from 530 to 630 USD, depending on the model.
Khaki Navy Frogman
The Khaki Navy Frogman is a remake of a watch Hamilton produced for the U.S. Navy's Underwater Demolition Team (or "Frogmen") in 1951. Its 42-mm case houses the caliber H-10 and is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft). Hamilton achieves this improved depth rating using a special locking mechanism that presses the crown securely into the case. The crown lock also adds a nice, professional touch.
Other professional features include a robust diving bezel and luminous hands and indices. The Frogman is available in three color schemes: a black dial and bezel, a black dial and red bezel, or a blue dial and bezel. Prices range depending on the model between 830 USD to 900 USD.
Features of the Khaki Navy Frogman
- Water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft)
- Unidirectional diving bezel
- Crown with a locking mechanism
- An automatic ETA caliber
Khaki Navy GMT Auto
If your life involves both water sports and frequent traveling, you should take a closer look at the Khaki Navy GMT Auto. This 42-mm stainless steel timepiece combines the robustness of a diving watch with the practicality of a GMT display. There are two windows at 9 o'clock, one displaying a city name for the second time zone and the other showing the time in that location. You can select a time zone using the additional crown at 9 o'clock, while the crown at 2 o'clock sets the GMT time. A third crown at 4 o'clock operates the internal diving bezel. White luminous material coats the hands, numerals, and indices, creating a beautiful sense of contrast with the black dial.
The Khaki Navy GMT Auto is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) and costs around 720 USD on a stainless steel bracelet. You can save about 120 USD by purchasing the version on a leather strap.
The Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO 1000M was designed with professional divers in mind. Its 46-mm stainless steel case has a black PVD coating and is water-resistant to 1,000 m (100 bar, 3,281 ft). It also comes with a helium escape valve, meaning it is fit for use on saturation dives. Like the case, the dial, numerals, and hands are also black. However, thanks to the luminous material, it is remarkably easy to tell the time.
The automatic ETA caliber 2862-2 ticks away inside this timepiece. It provides the BeLOWZERO with a date display at 3 o'clock and a 42-hour power reserve. Plan to spend roughly 1,300 USD on this professional diving watch.
Retro Watches: The Pioneer Series
Khaki Navy Pioneer watches epitomize retro design with their round stainless steel cases, wire lugs, classic railroad minute track, Breguet Arabic numerals, and pear-shaped hands. Their historical predecessors are the navigation and navy watches Hamilton built for the United States military in the 1940s. However, in terms of technology, these timepieces are state-of-the-art. They feature modern mechanical ETA calibers and are water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft), meaning your Navy Pioneer can even join you for a swim.
With its small seconds at 6 o'clock, the Khaki Navy Pioneer Small Second Auto bears a particularly strong resemblance to models from decades gone by. Thanks to its clean black, white, or blue dial, this watch pairs as well with business attire as it does with jeans and a t-shirt. The ETA 2895-2 powers the 40-mm edition of the Khaki Navy Pioneer Small Second Auto. You can call this version your own for about 760 USD. The 43-mm model with a rose gold PVD coating uses the automatic caliber H-32 and costs some 1,000 USD. At 46 mm in diameter, the Khaki Navy Pioneer Mechanical is noticeably larger. This interesting timepiece contains the manual ETA caliber 6498-2 and changes hands for approximately 1,900 USD.
If you can do without a small seconds, you may enjoy the Khaki Navy Pioneer Auto. This watch is available with a 36 or 43-mm case. Hamilton equips both versions with the caliber H-10 (ETA C07.111). This movement has a date display at 3 o'clock and an 80-hour power reserve. The smaller edition requires an investment of about 790 USD. At around 870 USD, the larger model is only slightly more expensive.
Features of the Khaki Navy Pioneer
- Retro watches modeled after historical navy watches
- Automatic and manual ETA movements
- Water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft)
The Khaki Aviation Pilot's Watch Collection
The Khaki Aviation collection is home to Hamilton's pilot's watches. This comprehensive series has something for everyone, from modern pilot's watches to models inspired by vintage timepieces.
The watches of the X-Wind series are among the more modern members of the Aviation family. Their dial designs resemble modern aircraft cockpits. Perhaps the most interesting feature of these timepieces is their internal drift-angle calculator, which pilots can use to calculate how crosswinds will affect their journey. This rotatable ring is operated via two crowns. These crowns are located at 2 and 4 o'clock on automatic models and 8 and 10 o'clock on quartz versions.
Hamilton produces both three-hand models and chronograph editions with automatic and quartz calibers. The manufacturer rotates the automatic calibers by 180° so that the crown – and any chronograph pushers – appear on the left-hand side.
The X-Wind is available with a black, blue, or silver dial. You can also choose from a stainless steel bracelet, rubber strap, or leather strap. Three-hand watches with the automatic caliber H-30 demand around 930 USD. On the other hand, quartz-powered X-Wind chronographs cost over 980 USD. Finally, prices for chronographs with the automatic caliber H-21 range from 1,200 to 1,800 USD.
Features of the Khaki Aviation X-Wind
- Chronographs and three-hand models
- Quartz and automatic ETA calibers
- An internal bezel for calculating drift
Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date
Hamilton pays tribute to their pilot's watches from the 1940s with the Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date . Defining features include prominent hour indices, a pilot's triangle at 12 o'clock, a minute track with large numerals, a central hour scale, and wide sword hands. As its name implies, the Day Date Auto also comes with a day-date display. This display is located at 3 o'clock on the 46-mm models, while the 42-mm versions split the displays with the date at 6 and the day at 12 o'clock.
The dial is available in matte black or olive green, as well as with a blue, silver, or gray sunburst pattern. You can purchase a 42-mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto with the automatic caliber H-40 (ETA 2834-2) for between 700 and 830 USD. The 46-mm edition uses the caliber H-30 (ETA C07.111) and costs around 710 USD.
Hamilton also produces the Pilot Day Date with a quartz movement. In terms of design, it is nearly identical to its automatic counterparts. However, the prices are much more budget-friendly. These watches sell for about 430 USD on a leather strap and 470 on a stainless steel bracelet.
Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer
Hamilton looked to the cushion-shaped pilot's watches worn by American servicemen in the 1970s when designing the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer. It's hard to take your eyes off this three-hand timepiece. It features two crowns: one at 2 o'clock for operating the internal countdown bezel and another at 4 o'clock for setting the date and time. Both are sunken into the case's large right-hand flank, offering them protection. The result is a uniquely asymmetrical timepiece. The combination of a matte black dial with luminous white indices and hands provides for fantastic readability.
Plan to spend anywhere from 740 to 850 USD on a mint-condition model, depending on whether you choose a NATO strap, leather strap, or stainless steel bracelet.
The Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer has a less technical feel thanks to its symmetrical cushion-shaped case, railroad minute track, and luminous beige indices and hands. This model is a remake of a watch Hamilton produced for the British Royal Air Force in 1973. At 36 mm in diameter, it is also an interesting option for women. The manual caliber H-50, based on the ETA 2801-2, powers this timepiece. Hamilton mounts the watch on a leather or textile NATO strap. Prices depend on the strap and fall between 700 and 750 USD.
Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz
The Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz takes the dial design of the Pilot Pioneer Mechanical and adds a small seconds at 6 and a 30-minute counter at 10 o'clock. It shares its sunken crown and chronograph pushers with the Pilot Pioneer Auto. You can choose between models with or without a date, as well as between a plain or black PVD-coated stainless steel case. Each version is powered by the quartz caliber ETA G10.211.
Expect to pay anywhere from 510 to 620 USD for a Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz.