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Gübelin 1940s 12CT Plat Emerald Diamond Flower Concealed watch

Price on request
Free insured shipping to United States of America
Pre-owned (Very good) Year of production 1950 Original box No original papers
Wire transfer
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Shipping and Seller Information

Available now
Expected delivery: May 21, 2022 - May 30, 2022
4.84 (35)
Contact seller Average response time 3 days, 21 hours


Basic Info

Listing code 4NYS75
Brand Gübelin
Movement Manual winding
Case material Platinum
Bracelet material Platinum
Year of production 1950 (Approximation)
Condition Very good (Worn with little to no signs of wear)
Scope of delivery
Original box, no original papers
Gender Women's watch
Location United States of America, New York, New York, New York


Movement Manual winding
Movement/Caliber manual/backwind


Case material Platinum
Case diameter 36 x 34 mm
Thickness 15 mm
Bezel material Platinum
Crystal Sapphire crystal
Dial Silver
Dial numerals Arabic numerals


Bracelet material Platinum
Bracelet color White
Bracelet length 180 mm
Lug width 34 mm
Clasp Jewelry clasp
Clasp material Platinum


Gemstones and/or diamonds, Limited Edition, Only Original Parts



Basic Specs:
- 12+Carats comprised of Brilliant Round Cut & Emerald Cut Diamonds & Pear Marquis Cut Shaped Emerald Stones
- Adjustable Fit Bracelet Cuff style fitting up to 7-8 inch wrist
- Circa 1940/50s
- Perfection working condition & recently serviced with no missing stones

In the 1920's a new focus on ladies diamond and gemstone watches was becoming the emerging marketplace. There was a new feeling of feminine individuality that was being celebrated in the public eye and therefore a new opportunity for jewelry houses and watch manufacturers such as Gubelin & Audemars Piguet to innovate new designs and as a result require new scientific methods. Some brands would compete with one another based on the design concepts and others would would compete based on the technical inventiveness of the movement miniaturization, but regardless of both those priorities, the authenticity of the stones being used was always the MOST important factor when working with ladies timepieces and jewelry pieces, alike.

As a small family owned watch shop that started in 1855, the knowledge of watchmaking was naturally passed down and in the 1920s and Gubelin would shift their workshops focus to also ladies watches like many of the other competing watch making shops. In order to do so however, gemstones would need to be incorporated and Eduard Gubelin recognized the challenge of buying the high quality, authentic stones for his creations. Unlike others at this time, he wanted to be able to test the authenticity of the stones before he used them in order to ensure the quality he was providing his clients was nature's best and maintain their client's trust in Gubelin. As a means to do so, Eduard Gubelin expanded his father's small watch shop to have a small in-house gem lab in 1923, named the Gubelin Lucerne Gem Lab. The concept to check stones interiors was a revolutionary idea since there was no formal science associated with gemology nor instruments or technology to do so. Due to the immediate and immense success of the Gubelin Lucerne Geb lab, Eduard would shift focus again, this time away from gemstone timepieces and set their sites on the gemstones themselves, no longer producing ladies watches. Because this crossover time period was so short, there were extremely few gemstone timepieces ever created by the Gubelin Gem lab. Instead Eduard Gubelin would go on to establish one of the most respected gemological laboratories in the world and act as the most trusted authority over any other for his and the lab's ability to provide highly trusted analyses and gemological reports on colored stones.

Eduard Gubelin is accredited for establishing gemology as a science and is considered the 20th centuries most important and most influential Gemologist.His ability to pioneer the gemological field revolutionized science as the contemporary world understood it. By examining the interior of the gemstones, Gubelin would seek to unlock its' mystery and became known as the father of origin determination in which case his laboratory developed a method to determine where
the colored gemstones came from and also how to successfully match stones for designers to use in their creations based on classifications. He developed methods for characterization and types of classifications based on the formulation of the gemstone which was apparent in physical qualities. Gubelin developed micro-photoscopic techniques of examining stones and became the world's master gemologist. Naturally Gubelin is said to also have had the worlds most important gemstone collection which still acts as a resource today with over 25,000 stones from every commercially relevant mine in the world.

During this crossover time period from gemstone watches to gemstones, Gubelin was selecting gemstone specimens which he felt had the MOST DRAMATIC interiors. While other watch and jewelry firms, such as Cartier were focusing on motifs like egyptian revival or flowers such as van cleef, Eduard Gubelin was creating the world's leading laboratory and analysis methods for picking gemstones for potential creations. For him the case design was built around the gemstone he was going to incorporate and greater challenge was finding matching stones according to his classification standards to be used within one piece. He showed that the inclusions if properly understood could reveal where a stone came from and crucially if it had been treated by human hand. Gubelin pioneered the concept of inclusion studies, a field which changed modern gemology completely.
Gubelin recognized gemstones differ from diamonds because by looking beneath the surface of the stone a scientist can discover hidden worlds of colors and shapes, of fantastic vistas and breathtaking patterns. He placed great emphasis on the importance of the inclusions, microscopic fissures, bubbles and striations that areise at the stone's crystal grows in the depths of the earth. The growth of the a crystal is controlled by the geological setting in which the mineral formed, the pressure and temperature conditions and the specific chemical environment prevailing at that time. Before Gubelin, these were considered blemishes and the attributes Gubelin Lucerne lab focused on had no baring on the quality of a gem.

The present watch represents not only the developmental shift which took place in the House of Gubelin first from pocket watches in the 1850s to ladies gemstone watches in the 1920s where they were commissioned by Audemars Piguet for their creations in the 1940s but more importantly the shift from gemstone watches in the 1920s to gemstones, themselves.

Just by simple oversation it is clear the emerald stones used within this present lot are of exceptional quality. The center of each emerald has microscopic inclusions and fissures which are incredible. Beauty and Science are represented by this piece which is fully signed and also in perfect working condition. The color of the emeralds makes this piece magnificent and directy represents the key components Eduard Gubelin was focusing on when selecting stones for his creations which would become the gemology standard for the future.

With three gem labs, two gem school academies and ten boutiques, the House of Gubelin is still the leading and foremost authoritative resource on colored gemstones and although they never decided to produce timepieces again, they still today purvey some of the finest examples for which they seek to offer their clients within their boutiques.
The Gubelin Gem Labs have grown to become one of the most respected institutions of its kind in the world. A completely independent subsidiary of the Gubelin Group, the Gubelin Gem lab uses the latest science and state of the art equipment to carry out its analyses. On the basis of this it issues its highly respected gemological reports which are relied upon by famous auction houses, royal families, jewelers, gem traders and collectors globally who are looking for unbiased, independent and absolutely trustworthy opinions about their gems with a level of understanding, sophistication and depth that only Eduard Gubelin could have established.

Important Elements to also pay attention to are
- the inside of the Emerald stone, need a micro-photoscopic photo of the interior like
- the side filigree of the bracelet watch shows attention to detail in every way with the open work setting and dramatic configuration and placement of each stone
- the swingout concealed mechanism which the case is designed to have in order to discreetly check the time in the company of others. (Another signature trait which existed as part of this period where it was considered rude to check the time in front of others)

Timepiece Dimensions:

36mm x 34mm
15mm thickness

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Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
Professional dealer Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
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