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Poljot New Yaroslavl
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Poljot New Yaroslavl
$560
Seller
Classic Watch
 
DE
Poljot Gorbatchov
TOP
Poljot Gorbatchov
$1,191
Seller
Classic Watch
 
DE
Patek Philippe vintage 1950s Tear Drop 1509  Calatrava &...
TOP
Patek Philippe vintage 1950s Tear Drop 1509 Calatrava &...
$9,800
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex stainless steel ladies Datejust
Rolex stainless steel ladies Datejust
$3,400
Seller
Paul Duggan Co., Inc
40
US
Patek Philippe Calatrava
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava
$14,500
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Timekeepers
 
US
Rolex Submariner Date
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Rolex Submariner Date
$9,500
Seller
Ari's Luxury Watch
 
US
Piaget Altiplano ref. G0A33112 ultra-thin hand-wound mechanica...
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Piaget Altiplano ref. G0A33112 ultra-thin hand-wound mechanica...
$9,500
Seller
FeelGoodWatches, Inc.
US
Cartier Diamond Cartier Santos 100 Xl Chronograph 17ct Natural...
TOP
Cartier Diamond Cartier Santos 100 Xl Chronograph 17ct Natural...
$14,500
Seller
Watch My Diamonds
44
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Chronograph
TOP
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Chronograph
$7,195
Seller
The Watch Collector NY
 
US
Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon #1 HCOMDT48WZ001
TOP
Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon #1 HCOMDT48WZ001
$370,000
Seller
Chad Warrick
 
US
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Chronograph PINK 60% OFF
TOP
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Chronograph PINK 60% OFF
$64,900
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
7
US
Chopard 1970s Chopard PAVE Diamond Lapis & 18kt YG Wristwatch
TOP
Chopard 1970s Chopard PAVE Diamond Lapis & 18kt YG Wristwatch
$4,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Breitling Bentley Motors
TOP
Breitling Bentley Motors
$5,850
Seller
Sea Wave Diamonds
60
US
Breitling Superocean Héritage Chronograph
TOP
Breitling Superocean Héritage Chronograph
$2,700
Seller
Timekeepers
 
US
Rolex Explorer II
TOP
Rolex Explorer II
$8,500
Seller
Ari's Luxury Watch
 
US
IWC Portuguese IW3714 18k Rose Gold Chronograph Men's...
TOP
IWC Portuguese IW3714 18k Rose Gold Chronograph Men's...
$10,400
Seller
FeelGoodWatches, Inc.
US
Heuer Autavia Viceroy Chronograph 11630
TOP
Heuer Autavia Viceroy Chronograph 11630
$4,499
Seller
Phigora
63
US
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Blue Steel 44mm
TOP
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Blue Steel 44mm
$4,295
Seller
The Watch Collector NY
 
US
Omega Mens  Speedmaster 3220.50 Chronometer Triple Date Black
TOP
Omega Mens Speedmaster 3220.50 Chronometer Triple Date Black
$2,395
Free shipping
Seller
Luxury Horology
83
US
Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101
TOP
Audemars Piguet Millenary 4101
$16,500
Seller
BlackTagWatches
29
US
Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter CLOCK
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Cartier 1920s Art Deco Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold Shutter CLOCK
$25,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 18K blue dial
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 18K blue dial
$53,000
Seller
Sea Wave Diamonds
60
US
Omega Seamaster (6855)
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Omega Seamaster (6855)
$5,399
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
95
US
Rolex Day-Date
TOP
Rolex Day-Date
$44,900
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Patek Philippe 5496-P  Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date
TOP
Patek Philippe 5496-P Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date
$75,000
Seller
Chad Warrick
 
US
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
TOP
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM48 Box & Papers
$5,399
Seller
Phigora
63
US
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 Blue Dial Index  Rare (1997)
TOP
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 Blue Dial Index Rare (1997)
$3,997
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
18
US
Rolex 36mm TT Datejust White Stick Dial Beige NATO 1601 Non...
TOP
Rolex 36mm TT Datejust White Stick Dial Beige NATO 1601 Non...
$3,295
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
88
US
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Travelgraph 18k Yellow Gold GMT
TOP
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Travelgraph 18k Yellow Gold GMT
$6,500
Free shipping
Seller
Daniele Trissi
8
US
IWC VINTAGE  1940 PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
TOP
IWC VINTAGE 1940 PLATINUM EMERALD DIAMOND CONCEALED LADIES
$40,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex Yacht-Master Stainless Steel Platinum Dial Mens Watch
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master Stainless Steel Platinum Dial Mens Watch
$5,975
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Noble
5
US
Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier 36mm 18k Rose Gold Purple Strap...
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Cartier Ballon Bleu De Cartier 36mm 18k Rose Gold Purple Strap...
$14,799
Seller
Watch My Diamonds
44
US
Rolex Daytona
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Rolex Daytona
$11,500
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
$12,495
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
34
US
Cartier Santos 100 Automatic Stainless Steel 2878
TOP
Cartier Santos 100 Automatic Stainless Steel 2878
$3,999
Seller
Phigora
63
US
Rolex Datejust 36mm Two Tone Jubilee Fluted Blue Roman Dial
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36mm Two Tone Jubilee Fluted Blue Roman Dial
$3,477
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
18
US
Rolex ladies 69174 Datejust - Blue Roman Numeral Dial
Rolex ladies 69174 Datejust - Blue Roman Numeral Dial
$3,200
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
88
US
Omega Seamaster  (16219)
TOP
Omega Seamaster (16219)
$4,899
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
95
US
Chopard VINTAGE 70S LARGE HAPPY DIAMOND SAUDI KING REF. 2121
TOP
Chopard VINTAGE 70S LARGE HAPPY DIAMOND SAUDI KING REF. 2121
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex GMT-Master
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master
$19,500
Seller
Stein Diamonds
7
US
Omega : Constellation Co-Axial 38MM :  123.10.38.21.01.002 : ...
TOP
Omega : Constellation Co-Axial 38MM : 123.10.38.21.01.002 : ...
$3,190
Seller
BernardWatch.com
125
US
Breguet 3315 Marine
TOP
Breguet 3315 Marine
$16,000
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
A. Lange & Söhne 1815
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne 1815
$25,000
Seller
Manfredi Jewels
 
US
Breitling NHLPA Super Avenger A13370 Special Edition
TOP
Breitling NHLPA Super Avenger A13370 Special Edition
$4,799
Seller
Phigora
63
US
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Sport
TOP
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Sport
$9,995
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
34
US
Rolex Datejust II Stainless Steel 41mm Rhodium Arabic
TOP
Rolex Datejust II Stainless Steel 41mm Rhodium Arabic
$5,395
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Noble
5
US
Breitling Superocean 42 Ocean Limited Edition
TOP
Breitling Superocean 42 Ocean Limited Edition
$2,577
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
18
US
Cartier Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold HARDSTONE SHUTTER CLOCK
TOP
Cartier Platinum Diamond Enamel Gold HARDSTONE SHUTTER CLOCK
$45,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Rolex RARE Sea Dweller  - Rolex Warranty Card - Tool kit 16600
TOP
Rolex RARE Sea Dweller - Rolex Warranty Card - Tool kit 16600
$7,500
Seller
Modern Swiss
 
US
Rolex 36mm SS Datejust Floral Dial Factory Diam Bezel 116244
TOP
Rolex 36mm SS Datejust Floral Dial Factory Diam Bezel 116244
$9,900
Free shipping
Seller
East Coast Jewelry
5
US
Rolex Mens 116400 Milgauss - White Dial - Oyster Band - Mint...
TOP
Rolex Mens 116400 Milgauss - White Dial - Oyster Band - Mint...
$5,699
Free shipping
Seller
SD & CO LLC
18
US
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph Two Tone 18kt Yellow Gold/SS - 116263
TOP
Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph Two Tone 18kt Yellow Gold/SS - 116263
$5,795
Free shipping
Seller
Certified Luxury Watches
6
US
Panerai Luminor GMT PAM 321 Power Reserve
TOP
Panerai Luminor GMT PAM 321 Power Reserve
$6,999
Seller
Phigora
63
US
A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Rattrapante Flyback Chronogr...
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Rattrapante Flyback Chronogr...
$82,000
Seller
Manfredi Jewels
 
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus
$29,995
Free shipping
Seller
AJ Watches
34
US
Rolex Datejust 36mm Vintage Stainless Steel Diamonds Dial (1963)
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36mm Vintage Stainless Steel Diamonds Dial (1963)
$3,777
Free shipping
Seller
Royal Jewelry & Watches
18
US
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
TOP
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Hunter
 
US
Chopard Men's 1000 Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL 8997...
TOP
Chopard Men's 1000 Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XL 8997...
$3,095
Free shipping
Seller
Luxury Horology
83
US
Cartier Tank Française
TOP
Cartier Tank Française
$9,300
Seller
Nitza Lerner Co.
 
US
IWC : Pilot 36mm :  IW324002 :  Stainless Steel : NEW
TOP
IWC : Pilot 36mm : IW324002 : Stainless Steel : NEW
$3,895
Seller
BernardWatch.com
125
US
Rolex Submariner Date
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
$8,750
Seller
Modern Swiss
 
US
Cartier Ballon Bleu Chronograph W6920077 / 3109
TOP
Cartier Ballon Bleu Chronograph W6920077 / 3109
$6,999
Seller
Phigora
63
US

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.
Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.
The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The