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SIHH 2017 – The Best New Watches

Oliver Siegle
26.01.2017
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic, Image: Audemars Piguet
Oliver Siegle
26.01.2017

The SIHH, one of the biggest and most prestigious watch fairs in the world, just opened its doors in Geneva and new breathtaking watches are being presented almost every minute.

In this article we will highlight the most intriguing novelties in a fast and convenient way. You will have the essential information as well as some images of the timepieces.

We’ll be continuously adding watches to the article throughout the day and the week, so make sure to check in regularly.

 

H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds Purity

H. Moser Venturer Small Seconds Purity

H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds Purity, Image: H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser Venturer Small Seconds Purity Blue Dial

H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds Purity Blue Dial, Image: H. Moser & Cie.

 

  • Beautiful time-only watch from H. Moser & Cie, a true independent brand
  • Understatement as an art form; passionate collectors appreciate that Moser timepieces sometimes don’t even feature a logo
  • Great in-house hand-wound movement with 3-day power reserve and outstanding finishes

Conclusion: Moser timepieces have been called “watchmaker’s watches” because there is so much more than meets the eye. The Venturer Small Seconds Purity goes even further; it doesn’t carry a logo, but has every other detail that a piece of haute horlogerie requires.

 

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeater

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeater

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeater, Image: Audemars Piguet

 

  • Minute Repeater with the same revolutionary mechanism as the “Supersonnerie”
  • Classic and understated design with extremely beautiful enamel dials
  • A true grand complication watch from one of the three companies that are the “holy trinity of high watchmaking”

Conclusion: Last year, Audemars received a massive amount of praise from collectors, journalists, and the jury of the Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie with their Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie. This year, the manufacturer is coming back with the same super complication, but this time it’s in a very classic timepiece.

The Jules Audemars Minute Repeater looks like a simple time-only watch, but it houses the revolutionary chiming mechanism. The case is platinum and the masterpiece is offered in two wonderful dial variations: black or smoked blue enamel.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic, Image: Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic, Image: Audemars Piguet

 

  • Black ceramic case and bracelet
  • Highly complicated perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, month, leap year and moonphase
  • One of the biggest watch icons of all time, the unique Royal Oak

Conclusion: This could already be the most popular watch of the SIHH. Even though many watch brands already have ceramic pieces in their collection, it’s a different story when Audemars Piguet introduces a ceramic Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar. The black watch trend is still very alive and it’s fair to say that many people have been waiting for a black Royal Oak for a long time.

The Royal Oak’s design is iconic but still rather controversial; you either love it or you hate it. This design probably speaks to those who love beautiful and radical machines like the Lamborghini Aventador or Wally Yachts.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in titanium and platinum

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in titanium and platinum, Image: Audemars Piguet

 

  • Titanium case and bracelet, platinum bezel and bracelet links
  • New dial design with so-called “Panda”-configuration (two-tone colored), modified sub-registers, markers, and date window
  • Only available at Audemars Piguet boutiques

Conclusion: This isn’t just an old model with a new material and a slightly adjusted dial design – not at all. It’s almost revolutionary, as when the Royal Oak was first introduced in 1972, it was the first luxury watch in stainless steel and changed high-end watchmaking forever. Now this watch, famous for its exquisite case and bracelet surface finishing, is offered in one of the toughest and most scratch-resistant materials, making a great watch even better.

There are probably already many watch collectors hoping for a titanium version of the Royal Oak Ultra-Thin.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre

 

  • Very nice, vintage-inspired design including sector dial, blue accents, and needle hands
  • Interesting pricing
  • Classic understated size with 39-mm diameter

Conclusion: Even though other models received more attention and marketing power, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control pieces could be true crowd pleasers. The watches don’t have any crazy hyper-complications like a double tourbillon made from space platinum. These are straightforward, elegant watches you can actually wear which simply show the precise time.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Réserve De Marche with Blue Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Réserve De Marche with Blue Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Réserve De Marche with Blue Dial, Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre

 

  • New beautiful blue dial on an already great model
  • Classic dress watch with a twist thanks to power reserve indicator and date display
  • Very practical because of its slim and automatic movement

Conclusion: This is a good example of how to make something good even better. This watch does have a special design that isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, but when the usual time-only dress watch isn’t exciting enough, this stealthy piece with a midnight blue dial and additional watchmaking craftsmanship might be the just perfect choice.

 

MB&F Horological Machine No. 7 Aquapod

MB&F HM7 Aquapod

MB&F HM7 Aquapod, Image: MB&F

MB&F HM7 Aquapod winding rotor

MB&F HM7 Aquapod winding rotor, Image: MB&F

 

  • Not just a watch, but a horological machine and work of art
  • Another watchmaking revolution from MB&F, the brand that constantly pushes the boundaries
  • A unique timepiece with out-of this-world design, three-dimensional architecture, a flying tourbillon, and a mean razor-sharp-looking winding rotor

Conclusion: MB&F isn’t for the faint of heart; they never were and hopefully they will stay that way. MB&F horological machines aren’t interesting because of their beauty; these pieces are purely astounding for their mechanics, engineering, and ability to create the impossible. Wearing an MB&F is a bit like driving a Pagani or an Ariel Atom while travelling through space and time. The Aquapod is another perfect example of that.

 

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Image: IWC Schaffhausen

 

  • Highly complicated timepiece combining a perpetual calendar with a flyback chronograph
  • One of the best perpetual calendar solutions available (day, date, month, and moon phase can be set completely via the crown and synchronized, includes a 4-digit year display)
  • Elegant new design with traits from the famous original but with a modern approach
  • Also available in steel, which is relatively rare for perpetual calendars

Conclusion: Let others have their diving watches, their Offshores and their Formula 1 themed gadgets – if you like highly-sophisticated mechanical timepieces with a touch of dandy-elegance, the new IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph could be the perfect choice for you.

IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Image: IWC Schaffhausen

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