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Nomos Tangente Gangreserve Anthrazit Ref. 173 Nomos Tangente Gangreserve Anthrazit Ref. 173 DE 150 2013 $2,341

A Rising Star in Fine German Watchmaking: Nomos Glashütte

Nomos Glashütte watches are defined by their clean designs and thin cases. In a short time, the manufacturer has gathered a growing customer base. Their Tangente series has helped Nomos establish a reputation as one of Germany's top watchmakers.

Highlights

  • Simple, Bauhaus-inspired designs
  • Thin calibers and cases
  • In-house movements
  • Suitable for men and women
  • Recipient of over 130 awards

Craftsmanship and Laser Technology Under One Roof

Other popular Nomos models include the urban Metro, the unobtrusive Orion, and the maritime Ahoi, all of which are available in various versions. Thanks to a large range of case sizes and neutral designs, these watches appeal to both men and women. The Metro sets itself apart with its optional power reserve indicator, and the Ahoi makes a name for itself thanks to its water resistance.
German computer expert Roland Schwertner established Nomos Glashütte shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 and took on the name of the former watchmaker Nomos-Uhr-Gesellschaft This company had sold Swiss pocket watches in Glashütte from 1906 to 1910. However, this was later forbidden, as the company had incorrectly used the name System Glashütte. Schwertner decided to revive the brand and soon encountered problems similar to those of his predecessors. To carry the mark Glashütte, the majority of the watch components must be produced on-site, which Nomos has subsequently achieved.
Bit by bit, Nomos has produced more and more of their calibers in-house. Today, the company prides itself on producing 75% to 95% of their caliber components on-site, even though only 50% of a given caliber is required to be made in-house to be labeled with the word "Glashütte." Few other manufacturers can rival Nomos's in-house production. Nomos complements their traditional craftsmanship with modern computer-aided tools and laser technology. Their self-designed in-house swing system, comprised of an escape wheel, a balance wheel, and a pallet, was introduced in 2014. They invested over 10 million euros and many years in developing the project.
The streamlined outer design of a Nomos watch often hides an intricate world within. The ultra-thin caliber DUW 3001 premiered in 2015. At just 3.2 mm thick and with automatic winding, the DUW 3001 is very unique. Usually, more space is required for automatic movements. Thus, the DUW 3001 gathered quite a bit of press when it was released.

Award-Winning Designs and Technology

Nomos has received praise from both the media and watch experts. They have been awarded Germany's most prestigious watchmaking prize, the Goldene Unruh (Golden Balance Wheel), over ten times.
Black and white dominate the color palette, and the majority of hands are stylishly slender. The preferred case material is stainless steel. Designers and artists working with the Nomos creative agency, Berlinerblau, are intimately involved in designing the dials, crowns, hands, and cases.

Buying Advice

Are you looking for a quieter, refined watch? Nomos offers deliberately simple and thin watches for both men and women. The minimalistic designs and flat construction of the watches contribute to their wide appeal. If you're a fan of elegant, understated pieces, then you've found the right brand. Nomos watches function well as dress watches matched with a suit, but also with a polo shirt or a turtleneck sweater. Nomos watches are especially beloved amongst creative types.
The number of Nomos models has reached double digits over the past few years. Square and barrel-shaped watches have joined the more traditional round models. However, the overall design of the watches remains consistent. Nomos dials are always neat and clean, even those on models with multiple complications.
The Tangente model is a prime example of Nomos's style. The manual winding model with a subsidiary seconds dial has been in production since 1992. The Tangente was the first Nomos creation and was designed by Susanne Günther. It's still Nomos's bestseller. The colors, movement, and case size of the watches differentiate them from each other. A special edition is dedicated to supporting the organization Doctors Without Borders. A percentage of each watch sale is donated to emergency aid. The 33-mm Tangente is available for around 1,000 euros, while a new 38-mm version costs around 2,000 euros.
The Ahoi is a little larger. It has a 40-mm case and a few functional features that differentiate it from the typical Nomos look, such as crown protection with a screw-down crown. If you enjoy diving, sailing, or any other water sport, you should strongly consider the Ahoi, as it is especially well protected against water. It's officially waterproof to 200 m (20 bar) and new, costs 2,000 - 3,000 euros.
The Orion is the personal favorite of the Nomos creative team based in Berlin, Berlinerblau. This watch is beloved for its simple, plain design, which is characteristic of Nomos. The Club appeals to a younger audience, while the smart Ludwig is perfect for businessmen. For those desiring a larger piece, look no further than the Zürich.
If you are seeking a more prestigious look, the Lux and the Lambda are your answer. Both watches are available in white or rose gold and feature sapphire crystal glass backs. The armbands are made of genuine shell cordovan, an especially robust and moisture-resistant material. The price of a new Lux or Lambda is over 10,000 euros.
Their comparatively moderate price range contributes significantly to Nomos's success. This is also inspired by the Bauhaus movement; Hannes Beyer, the second Bauhaus director, lived by his motto of Volksbedarf statt Luxusbedarf - the needs of the people instead of the need for luxury. Although the general public today prefers cheaper quartz watches from Asia, in comparison to other Glashütte-based manufacturers, Nomos remains affordable.

Nomos: Presidential Style

As the demand for Nomos watches grows, so does the company. The number of employees has risen to over 200, and sales doubled between 2011 and 2014 alone. Nomos is based in the former Glashütte train station near competitors A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original. Nomos watches travel from the charming Müglitz valley in Germany to more than 40 countries around the world. One of the most well-known Nomos wearers is former American president Bill Clinton.